Hey tate, I should get you in touch with another guy i know that builds for Goodon Buildings. Post buildings are cheaper and go up in a day.

 

Are they as well insulated? Are the ok for inside city? Ie does it look like a barn or a garage?

 

He exists! Long time no see!

Thanks for the offers of help guys. I'll keep you posted on what my construction schedule looks like. It'll be fall, at the earliest, for putting up the walls. Maybe if we get an Indian Summer, I can get the structure up and then I can put about inside doing the electrical/insulation/drywall/etc.

 

There post buildings. They are tin buildings that are ordered to what ever size you want. Mine if 30x42 and i insulated it with R20 on the walls and roof but im redoing the roof with spray foam hopefully this year. Mine kept warn this winter to the point that i didnt have to plug my tactor in at minus 40 to start the dang thing. Pretty reasonable too. I think mine was 25g put up with a role up door and man door.30Wx42Lx16H.

 

Sounds like and ABDTR#5 GTG only with tools in hand for building the ASW workshed..

I like the idea of the external mechanical room for the heat and compressor. A long time close friend of mine works with SIPS a lot in his day to day work and I am sure could spec out some details for you. Would be an easy build, 4 walls up in a couple hours and then put on the trusses. You could be done in a weekend.

 

Its planned to be a weekend build, which weekend is unknown. I've contacted an engineer about my concrete pad, trying to get away from the 4' deep frost walls ($14k extra for just that) which is mandated by the city. Sounds like it might be more money than its worth to have it professionally engineered. And take longer. The current engineering firm is talking about 2-3 weeks for the soil analysis, then I have to apply for the building permit after that, which will take 2+ weeks. Be looking at Sept. before I even get to pour, then we're looking at frost risks. Oh joy!

 

Thats the challenge over a certain size you have to engineer the entire structure.. Gets to be a cost consideration.

 

I knew how much the unengineered pad was gonna cost me. First time I talked to the current engineering firm, sounded like $1500 to do the soil analysis and engineer the pad. Now its $2800 to the analysis, and then another firm has to do the structural engineering of the pad. So if I do all that, and they say gotta do the 4' frost wall and footings, I'm $4k+ down, and still looking at the same cost for the pad. I've got two names of structural engineers I'm gonna call and see what kind of cost I'm looking at and what they can do for the actual design. We'll see what happens. I'd love to get the pad price down $12-15k, and then only pay what the engineers need. If the pad is still $20k, it really doesn't make much sense.

 

WOW 20g for a pad. I had mine done for 8700 6" thick finished. I wouldnt think you would have to have the building engineered if you went with one of these post buildings and you pour the pad inside them after there built. If you do the prep work yourself it also costs alot less for infloor heat. Im kickin my butt for not doing the plumbing. I had it figured to be around 2500 for all of the infloor stuff if i bought it down south(besides boiler). I had my pad done in october the year i moved here and its been good since.

 

He may have the go-ahead to build, but you have to stay within limits for architecture to match the neighborhood.. Putting up and industrial shed in the residential community would be an easy fine and tear down.

 

Exactly. It has the match the style of my house and not contrast with the neighbourhood. A thickened pad would most likely be sufficient, but its either go with the overkill pad, or pay a bunch of guys to put a stamp on a piece of paper saying the the thickened pad is fine. In the end, the overkill pad will be much easier, and it might not be all that more expensive. I still need to call the engineers.

 

I know a civil engineer here on the DTR that can help you.. PM Sent..

 

Yep but it doesnt meen you have to have tin siding on it. A person can install a tin roof and sheet the side and put vinyl siding on. Then it would be no different than a garage. This is why i like sask, no rules when its on a lot bigger than an acre outside city limits. Friends just put up a 88x180 pole shed, nothin needed but the company to build it. I realize that in a residential area is different but a person doesnt have to go exactly by there plans. Changes can be made to suite. Everything can change for a price.

 

I got some good news and action from the city. Once my neighbor got his garage up, and then i built mine, we went to the city asking if they could step up the maintenance of the lane. It gets used by the garbage trucks. It gets flooded too.
They showed up last week and surveyed it, marked all the utilities and today they started to rebuild the lane and are moving our garbage to the front as individual curb side service instead of the big bins in the lane.

I was told we did our part to improve the looks and they will do their's now.

I really wanted a 1200 sq ft garage and a loft. Did not happen but what I have is already busy.



Enjoy the build.

 

Sounds like my parents are tired of me saying I might not be able to afford it this year, so they are fronting me the funds to pull this off this year. When I said I'd get my dually out of their driveway when I get my garage, my mom said she'd write me a cheque tomorrow. I wish I'd known that sooner.

Got my quote from the brother-in-law's brother, who works for a lumber yard. $4k for the lumber and trusses, delivered. Thats a third of what Totem and Home Depot wanted. Granted, this is without siding or doors, but I think I can buy those with the remaining $8k. Its looking up at this point, thats for sure. Except the fact I'll be indebted to my parents for the next couple years. Beats the banks, though.