ABDTR #5 Alberta Chapter #5 Discussion

Checking Rail Pressure

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Old Oct 30, 2012 | 08:49 PM
  #16  
StealthDiesel's Avatar
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Hey Justin, there is a guy in Edmonton on www.ABdiesels.com selling an Autometer low side (lift pump) & high side (rail) pressure gauge.
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Old Oct 31, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #17  
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Thanks Stealth! I will send him an email. Not overly excited about splicing into the factory wires but for the right price it would work.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 09:07 AM
  #18  
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Well I got the RP gauge hooked up. IT does not have a reading until the truck is running so I don't know what the reading is during crank but it has fired up within 3 sec the last few starts so would be hard to get a reading anyway. When at idle I am getting a reading bouncing from 6-10K will cruising at 110km it is about 21k and I can see 27K WOT. From what I have read it should be 7k ish at idle and 15-18 cruising and 26K max. I will post a video of what it does at idle once I get home.
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Old Nov 4, 2012 | 07:05 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Classy5.9
Well I got the RP gauge hooked up. IT does not have a reading until the truck is running so I don't know what the reading is during crank but it has fired up within 3 sec the last few starts so would be hard to get a reading anyway. When at idle I am getting a reading bouncing from 6-10K will cruising at 110km it is about 21k and I can see 27K WOT. From what I have read it should be 7k ish at idle and 15-18 cruising and 26K max. I will post a video of what it does at idle once I get home.

Glad you got the RP gauge installed.

Idle RP should be 5-7k with a little fluctuation. Bouncing from 6-10k doesn't sound right. It will bounce more when the engine is cold, less when fully warmed up.

Your Smarty HP levels and RP parameter setting will determine what you cruise at. 20-21k is normal for the Smarty on the higher HP levels.
Most of the EFI Live tuners are setting the RP very low especially at cruise and low RPM & low boost levels. 15-16k PSI at cruise.

To get a feel for stock rail pressure, set the ECM to stock with the Smarty and go for a drive. This sets a baseline.
Even setting the RP to stock on the higher HP levels is not really stock IMO.
For everyday driving I would set the RP parameter to stock. No need for that extra pressure IMO.
I ran Feb 2012 TNT/R level 3 (170HP) all defaults except RP stock. This gives me 5-7k idle RP. 23-24k at full throttle high RPM. Highway cruise empty 18-20K PSI.
50HP nozzles, Arson IV kit in my CP3, 17-20PSI inlet fuel pressure.

The RP is interesting as you start cranking up the Smarty settings. It's also interesting if you upgrade your CP3 or install an upgraded CP3.
The RP gauge gives a good "window" into what is going on with with your fuel system and how your engine is reacting.

To see the RP while cranking you can either connect the RP gauge to a 12V source that is hot while cranking or just use a wire jumper to give it power while cranking.
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Old Nov 5, 2012 | 12:23 PM
  #20  
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Thanks Joe,

I will have to set it to Stock and see what the baseline is.

Here is the video at idle, keep in mind I do NOT touch the throttle. It is also NOT at high idle.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y9VVQ8z5IV4
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 08:24 AM
  #21  
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Well guys I have had the RP guage in for a while and got a good baseline on stock programming and then turned it up to SW5 and there does not seem to really be a difference in RP.

I have also changed out the CP3 and the FCA and the erratic rail pressure continues.

I guess the next step is to replace the RP sensor and check the fuel pressure from the lift pump.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 08:27 AM
  #22  
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Also when I started the truck this morning when it was at high idle it was jumping from 10-15k so not sure what is going on.
truck seems to run fine otherwise but I dont imagine it is healthy for the injectors to see the RP bouncing so much.
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Old Dec 20, 2012 | 10:11 PM
  #23  
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I have a few extra 5.9L rail's if you want to try. Its a pretty easy swap. Let me know
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Old Feb 7, 2013 | 04:04 PM
  #24  
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Thanks Mike for all the parts. Super stand up guy!

I have now changed the following:
-CP3
-FCA
-Rail Pressure Sensor
-PRV on Rail
-Crank/Cam Sensor
Rail pressure still seems to be bouncy especially at cold start up. During the last cold snap it would be anywhere between 6-11k with quick fluctuations.

I have some other electrical quirks going on so am thinking maybe ECM.

Anyway thought I would post up where I am at.
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Old Feb 18, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by StealthDiesel
Temporarily checking the rail pressure is not that useful unless you have a no start condition or the truck is running really poor.
Just like lift pump fuel pressure, you really need to drive the truck, put it under load and different conditions to see what's going on & if anything is wrong.

I recommend that you go ahead and purchase a rail gauge.
A rail gauge is useful for many things in addition to fuel system monitoring.
You can really see the difference in RP when making HP level and parameter changes with a programmer and if (when) you go to EFI Live.

I've had a DiProcal rail pressure gauge for 6 or 7 years with no issues. It was a pricey investment but it has been worth it.
Unfortunately DiProcal no longer exists.

Options for a RP gauge include the solder in Autometer, although it can be made plug and play with a PPE rail gauge harness, the plug and play Ispro.
Recently the OBDII "gauges" are also able to read rail pressure from the ECM.
The Dashdaq, Edge Insight and the Scangauge are a few examples.
Thanks for the info regarding the rail pressure gauge Joe---i just blended my Autometer one into a ISSPR0 harness like you suggested.I like this way a lot better then running a splice at the sensor as Autometer suggests(not much meat at the engine rail sensor). Plug and play,easy and done.A bit of a Family Day weekend project, while i was at it i ran a BD power pod to power all my gauges/accessories----so far Boost,Fuel pressure,Fuel rail pressure,Oil pressure(tranny line pressure),Oil pressure (engine) all mounted on a custom gauge cluster----4 on the dash above the drivers view and one on the steering column.Pyro's are next but saving funds for the turbo to mount this STEEDSPEED t3 manifold i have sitting here---do everything at once when its apart.Going for the fighter-jet look once i'm done.just like the 01.Cheers
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