Na but some day i will fig a go way to intercool my truck, and this couputer eliterate(and por speller ) guy is going to be asking a lot of ???????just to fig out how to get pic's from my cam, to hear!!!!!

 

these arent CTD how to's, but they are dodge truck oriented. i think theres one or two for CTD's.

http://www.ramchargercentral.com/index.php?action=howto

 

bump to the top

 

Wanna,
The link to the KDP tab install should definitly be in there, i cant find it to post here

If someone more knowledgeable than myself were to write an article covering what a first time CTD owner should know( KDP, over-filling Getrag, fuel filter changing, cold start procedures, turbo cool down, and all that) that would be a great help to alot of folks seeing how we are getting new CTD owners all the time

 

Is there any articles about head porting?
"do's and don't" that would be a nice article to read!!!

Dave you said that you were going to be using the search button a lot,..
just thought i would add one more

 

I looked myself and couldn't find it. I thought there were some instructions for a KDP fix specifally done on a first gen but I'm not sure now.

Mike

 

Regarding the 1st Gen KDP fix ~ One can buy a "kit". One can whittle some metal (washers and such). Some simply take a punch and deform the area around the pins hole. My fix was the wire trick.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...65&postcount=4


NOTE: There may be subtle differences in the boss (or lack of) surrounding the pin. I only know about the style shown in the above linked image.

 

The part numbers for the stub shaft seal kit are as follows... please confirm with your dealer as they can be superceded.... J8130157 SEAL SERV KIT 82042


To change the steering shaft, the first thing
I did was remove the front wheel.
Make sure to turn the front wheels so you have good access to the roll pin on the steering shaft before you jack the truck up.
Next, take a pair of vise grips or pliers and pull out the orange plastic piece that is inside the roll pin.
If it breaks off, you can use a small diameter punch to drive it out.
To drive the roll pin out, you need to hold a block of steel behind the shaft to absorb the blows from hitting the roll pin.
If not there is a chance you could damage the upper set of needle bearings on the stub shaft of the steering gearbox. A 2lb-hammer head or a chunk of steel stock will work fine. You just don't want the bearings inside to be taking the force of the blow when driving the roll pin out. I know this from experience as I ruined the oil seal in mine by not supporting the shaft.
Anyway, if the roll pin won't drive out one way, turn the shaft and try the other way. Sometimes when the roll pins are driven in, they flare a bit and it is much easier to drive them out in reverse than on through.
Once the roll pin is out you will have to remove the old shaft at the rag joint. It requires strong arms and a 12 point wrench, 5/16" I think. Then you can take the old shaft out.
Now to tackle the seal… Clean the stub shaft with a wire brush, emery cloth, and carb cleaner. You can remove the dust seal (and snap ring I think) with a small scribe or screwdriver.
As for the seal, you might have to drill a small hole on each side of the seal and
Screw in a couple of drywall screws to help pull it. On mine, it just took a small chisel to drive/turn it out. Once the seal is out, you will have to wait for the oil to drain out. Once it stops dripping, clean everything up the best you can with carb cleaner.
I greased the shaft and put red locktite on the outside of the seal.
The grease will help keep the lip from rolling on the seal and the locktite will keep oil from leaking out around the outside of the seal. I used a deep well socket to gently drive the seal in. Then take a small screwdriver and fill the gap between the oil seal and the dust seal with the grease that comes with the two seals. This will help keep any water out. Then the dust seal will drive on/in.
I think somewhere in there, there is a snap ring, but I can't remember where it is. You may encounter it somewhere, but it is very easy and self-explaining. When you put the new Borgeson shaft on, make sure the steering wheel is centered before you file the flat spot on the stub shaft flat.
I found that the best way to center the shaft is to put the wheels on and drive the truck down the drive. You will understand once you try it. Once the shaft and steering wheel is centered, then tighten the set screw to mark the stub shaft. Also mark where the steering shaft goes on so nothing gets out of alignment. Then you can file a flat spot on the stub shaft for the set screw to sit. "If you choose to drill a dimple as per Borgeson's instructions, do not drill too deep or you will hit oil. Just a shallow dimple is all you want." - wannadiesel
Also, for the lowest set screw, remove it from the steering shaft and file a flat spot on the steering shaft where the lock nut will set.
Borgeson doesn't do this, and it causes the setscrew to stretch and possibly break when the lock nut is being tightened. (Dohhhh!)
The flat spot on the steering shaft, gives the lock nut a shoulder to set on. Trust me, been there, done that.
Everything else is pretty straightforward. Good luck and feel free to
ask any more questions. It will probably take about 3 hours to do
everything. Have fun!

>>>>>>>
mil> 0.001 inches >
25.4 microns > "milli-inch"
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Micron 1/1000,000 meter. Micro (10e-6) meters
25.4 per mill Commonly used to measure features on a silicon chip
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Sq Microns One 1,000,000th of a square millimeter// Commonly used to measure silicon features on an integrated circuit
4 micron = 0.0001574803149606 in.
6 micron = 0.0002362204724409 in.
8 micron = 0.0003149606299213 in.
10 micron = 0.0003937007874016 in.
11 microns = 0.0004330708661417 in.
12 microns = 0.0004330708661417 in.
14 microns = 0.0005511811023622 in.
16 microns = 0.0006299212598425 in.
18 microns = 0.0007086614173228 in.
19 microns = 0.000748031496063 in.
20 microns = 0.0007874015748031 in.
21 microns = 0.0008267716535433 in.
22 microns = 0.0008661417322835 in.
23 microns = 0.0009055118110236 in.
24 microns = 0.0009448818897638 in.
25 microns = 0.0009842519685039 in.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

>>>

That's all for now Dave.....hope this helps someone out...

pb....

 

One more for you...
This is courtesy of "Sams Rams". He did this install for me a year or two back when he came up for the PDR 1St Gen day. Afterwards he put together this "How To" instruction for us guys to refer to.

Installation of second gen auto shifter lever with OD button in the end..

O/D column lever installation kewlness
Fellow dieselheads - I've put together the steps for the o/d column lever install, including some tips to ensure nothing shatters in the process!

This is the instruction 'manual' for converting your factory automatic column-mounted gear lever handle to accept the 2nd-gen overdrive lever. This conversion moves the operation of the o/d on-off switch (mounted on the front face of the first gen dash) up to the tip of your auto shift lever. You'll love it, and it takes about 1/2 hour to install.

Mopar Part number: 1-04690522AB. Cost is about $45 from any dealer.

Switch Operation:
In short, there are a bunch of wires on the back of the original switch - one of them is Orange/White stripe - This is the 'trigger wire'. The new lever only has two wires - one to the trigger and one to ground. If you use one of those little blue splice connectors you can tap one of the wires from the new lever (either one) right into the original orange/white wire, and then ground the other wire from the new lever to anywhere on the back of the dash. Be sure to use a small star washer to get a good connection. Game-set-match. Both switches will trigger the o/d, either to on or off depending on what it is curently in, and will also light up the original o/d switch light on the dash. Works great and you get to keep the 'indicator', only you won't have to search for the button!

Column covers:
You will need a small torx bit. When you take apart the plastic covers from your steering column, be VERY CAREFUL not to shatter or crack the plastic. It's real old and real fragile. It doesn't come apart easily, take your time and 'work' it back and forth, applying pressure to separate them. They'll come eventually, but some of the ones that have never been apart are real buggers because two spots are 'pressed' together, much like a tight locating pin on a bellhousing.

Removing the factory lever:
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.

Installing the new o/d lever:
The new lever hooks right in place of the old one. Take note of the position of the original lever in relation to the little return spring (when you pull back on the lever to go into gear it automatically returns to the rearward position via this spring - you'll see it). Once you get the lever to where it looks like it's in, it really isn't. The return spring will be on the back side of the tip of the lever. You'll have to 'convince' it to go in, and when it does you'll know it. Once in place reinstall the roll pin, pointy end down, and squeeze it back in its seat with the channel loc's again.

Wiring:
Cut the end plug off of the new lever wires and 'peel' the two wires apart leaving about 4" worth of single wire each. They're really thin, but my truck hasn't burned down yet so I guess it's 'ok'. Pastor Bob, Mark, yer's still in one piece? Anyway, find the orange/white stripe 'feed' wire on the original switch and 'splice' it into either of the new lever wires. The little blue plastic splice connectors work best. You will typically have to add a 6" length wire to the new trigger and ground wires to make the swap have plenty of slack. Slack is good - you can always zip tie it up if you have too much. Now attach the other new wire to ground somewhere most convenient on the inside of your dash. Once you have the wiring hooked up, turn your key to run, not start, and hit the switch. Since our rigs default the o/d operation to 'on', when you hit the switch the [o/d-off] light should illuminate. If the [o/d off] light doesn't come on and the [cargo] light does, go get a beer and try again 'cause ya gots yer wiring a bit jacked up. If the [o/d-off] light comes on, go get two beers and celebrate your wiring prowess! Once celebrations and high-5's are complete, go ahead and put the column back together. If no one is there to celebrate with you, just high-5 yerself on the forehead.

Reassembly of the column covers:
Put the covers back together in reverse order of dissassembly. You might want to slightly hog out the centering hole for the alignment pins - they'll just make you mad again if you ever have to remove them again (I found out some kewl stuff about 2nd gen column pods, so stay tuned about these little plastic covers). DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN THE SCREWS - they strip easily.

Driving:
Like I need to explain this part. Yer rig will 'feel' like a new one now - Hey, at least it's a Mopar lever that you installed!

 

How about some biodiesel and WVO how-tos?

here's a couple of detailed how-tos for setting up an inexpensive homebrew biodiesel reactor from parts you can mostly get at Home Depot and harbor Freight:
http://www.biodieselcommunity.org/appleseedprocessor/
http://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/p...rs/50gallon02/

here's a well written and very detailed how-to book for the above listed style of reactor:
http://www.localb100.com/book.html

here's a forum thread about biodiesel in cummins engines:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/groupee/...03/m/318609373

here's a few companies selling Waste Vegetable Oil (WVO) conversion kits:
http://www.greasel.com/
http://www.plantdrive.com/
http://www.frybrid.com/vp44.htm

here's a couple of good forums about biodiesel and WVO. Lots and lots of very useful information from experienced biodiesel users and makers:
http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/groupee/forums
http://forums.biodieselnow.com/default.asp

 

Dave,

Did not see anything in the list about fuel filter replacement. Thought this link was informative, but there might be a better one (did not find it).

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d.php?t=100852

Yeah, I know this is a basic maintenance issue, but was interesting to note the "gotcha's" and things to watch out for.

Rich

 

Done. Thanks!

 

This thread "auto vs. straight has some vital getrag setup info from Terry Elders, retired chrysler "put cummins into dodge pickup" engineer.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...6&page=5&pp=15

 

How to eat fried worms

 

I just added this thread to my subscribed-thread list.

You might want to do the same as I hear our sticky is going to disappear.