Dude you just need to be honest when you buy the truck. Talk the salesperson and you can tell if they are liars or not. If you feel they are being straight with you then buy the truck. When you start to play games thats when they tell you to leave. Be honest and they will be honest with you. Also make sure you get all the rebates your entitled to.

 

Boy, atho I'd like to say I agree with you, there are still enough dishonest dealers out there who will take advantage of you if you show all your cards, that you need to be careful assuming that your honesty will in turn garner their honesty.
Be educated, but if you lack education on something, check the facts with someone who doesn't have a reason to shade the facts in their favor. (some dealers are like the fox guarding the henhouse)
That being said, I have also found some really truly straightforward dealers too - they're the ones you want to go back to time and time again, but sadly, they're the ones that never seem to be able to stay in business too long.

 

I know we all hear about the shady dealers but i think it is like the bad priest and teachers you hear about. They are the ones that get the press.

 

I'm always honest with dealers I work with. Trouble is, it's like pulling teeth to get a final number out of them or get them to work for a sale. I'm buying my truck from a dealer 85 miles away instead of my local one because they weren't even trying to make a sale. They said, "here's the straight up dollar amount for your trade in" and then low-balled me by $2500 off the Kelly Blue Book. They were writing numbers on a blank piece of paper and not even documenting what the numbers were. I told them I would buy from them if they gave me a good deal and the salesman said, "no problem, we'll even get you the Chrysler employee/retired employee referral price which should save you a bundle." The dealer didn't know how much that was and was supposed to get back to me on the figure, but never did. Their loss. It'll be funny when I bring my new truck in for service, though.... My point is, you have to know how much YOU are willing to pay for the truck and then not get emotional about it. If they don't make your price, walk and go find someone who will. I believe there are straightforward dealers out there, but I just haven't found many of them. It's all the, "wait here while I go check with my supervisor" stuff. I just tell them, "Either you are authorized to make the deal or let me speak to the guy that is." I bought my truck from a guy that works at the same company as I do and he gave me the real employee deal. It was like night and day how they treat you if you are on the inside or just another customer. Rant over....

 

FYI - the actual Chrysler employee price is printed by Chrysler on their invoice to the dealer. A dealer who has nothing to hide will show you a copy of that invoice if asked. (other mfr's also have the employee price printed on their invoice to the dealer)

 

Yeah, when I purchased my truck from the farther dealer I saw the EP of $46,299 on my sheet. FFP was $48,170, whatever that is and the invoice was $48,657. I paid $48,131 before rebates and don't know if the EP includes all rebates or not.... The local dealer couldn't be bothered to show me that or make me the deal he promised.

 

We worked out a deal.
Got the truck for 45385.00 after my Farm Bureau rebate. They gave it a fresh oil change and made it look sparkling new.
Actually a good bunch of folks down there. (Martin Dodge in Cleveland Tx)
The guy that had been driving it is the owner of the company. Really nice guy!
The folks there were all very good people.
Now I just need to find some of those fitted rubber floor mats so I don't screw up the carpet!!
Who is it that makes those???

 

Hey, Congrats!

Weathertech is the mfr.

 

Thanks!!
Just ordered a set last night.
I looked at the Husky's as well.
There was only 10 bucks difference between the 2 sets so the decision came down to design. From what I've read the Huskys lip up on all side thus making a pan to catch water, mud and such. Weathertech lays across the door sills allowing water and such to drain off. Where I can see how that could cause an issue with dirt and rock getting in between the door and the sills I prefer it over a pooling of fluid in the floorboards.
Both looked great but weathertech won the contest.

Now I just need to get some tint on the driver and passenger doors, DPF delete, and a drop in (K&N) or BHAF.
Suggestions anyone???

 

Awesome! Looks like you're hitting the ground running, er, driving....

 

From what everyone is saying, the stock air set up is good up to 450-500 HP. It's a stock CIA.

From all the reports I have read from Diesel Power Mag and other forums it appears that most prefer the MBRP 4" exhaust.

Before you get crazy with your mods, ask the service mgrs at your local dealerships if they are mod friendly.

I found one and their first recomendation was to do deletes.