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Door Lock Actuator Replacement Guide

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Old 11-04-2017, 05:13 PM
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Door Lock Actuator Replacement Guide

The door lock actuator stopped working on my front passenger door about a month or so ago. There were signs early this year that it was about to go and eventually the only way to lock and unlock it was manually. I ended up replacing it with one from Mopar.

Do note, I attempted to order one from RockAuto. Their vehicle descriptions are horrible and I ordered one (Standard Motors Products DLA634) that most closely matched my truck: "Extended Crew Cab Pickup". After it arrived, it looked like it matched, a few minor differences with one major difference: It required a square 4-pin connector, not a straight line 4-pin, required by this truck. So I had to put everything back together again. After snapping a picture of the failed unit, that part number cross-referenced to a Dorman 931-085, which is listed under the "Standard Cab" description. I checked it on Dorman's website and tried to search by my truck and it said there wasn't one available, but when I cross-referenced the Mopar part number, it came up with the 931-085 part. I contacted Dorman and they said it will fit and they will update their catalog. By the time I heard back from them, I already ordered from https://www.officialwholesaleautoparts.com/ as they had the best price with the lowest shipping compared to other Mopar dealers. You do get what you pay for, so while I may have been able to save $30 getting the Dorman, it's up in the air if it would have fit as well as the OEM and lasted as long.

Original Mopar Part #4589422AF; Updated part number is: 68079092AA

There will be a total of 3 pages to this due to only being able load no more than 10 pics per post.

1. First, on the interior door panel, there are these plastic fasteners that need to be removed. First, use a torx to unscrew them. They are threaded, but I think it is more to help hold them in place:



2. Next, use a flat blade screwdriver or something similar to gently pry the fasteners that hold the door panel to the door. You may need to leverage between the door panel and door as those plastic pieces have a pretty tight fit:



3. Remove this corner piece that covers the bolts to the mirror. It removes pretty easily by gently pulling on it with your hand:



4. Gently pry that tab open with a pick or flat head screwdriver:



5. Remove that philips head screw. It holds that door handle trim piece and the door panel in place:



6. Pry the door handle trim piece to remove it from the door panel:



7. Next up, you will need to remove the window switch/door lock panel:



8. Gently pry up on the left end to lift it out of the door panel:



9. Disconnect the window switch and set it aside. You will need it again, so leave it close by. Once this is out of the way, lift the entire door panel up and out (forgot to get a pic of that, but it's easy):
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Old 11-04-2017, 05:33 PM
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Door Lock Replacement Guide Part 2

10. This is on the lower right of the panel that houses the door handle and all of the electronics on the door. Remove this plastic panel:



11. This is the Front Right Door Module. Remove the two lower connectors. They are for the mirror:



12. This is the harness to the mirror. Remove the tape and move this harness out of the way:



13. Remove the 4 speaker screws and disconnect the connector behind the speaker. Set the speaker aside:



14. Reconnect the window switch panel and lower the window until you can see the holes in the next two pictures that you will use to depress two tabs to disconnect the window from the door track:



15. This is behind the speaker. That hole is used to disconnect the window from the window track. Use two screw drivers to depress the tabs and gently lift the window up (I apologize I forgot to get a picture with the window lowered with the tabs showing):



16. Same as the hole behind the speaker, used to disconnect the window from the track. Use two screw drivers to depress the tabs and gently lift the window up. Once both sides are disconnected, lift the window all the way up and use lots of masking tape to hold it up in place:



17. Remove the two torx screws that secure the electrical harness to the door:



18. Use a flat head screw driver or another tool to depress the two top tabs (you can see them if you pull the harness cover back a little) and pull this harness back to access the electrical connector:



19. Pull this behind the door seal so you can pull the connector away from the truck side:
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Old 11-04-2017, 05:45 PM
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Door Lock Replacement Guide Part 3

20. Disconnect this electrical connector:



21. Pull the harness from in between the door seal and door:



22. Remove those three torx screws from the actuator:



23. Using your fingers or a flathead, slide that white tab back and pull the exterior door handle rod out of the hole:



24. I forgot to get a better picture, but remove the 12-14 bolts (forgot to count how many) from around the edge of this panel. At the bottom center is a plastic tab that you may need to squeeze to gently pull the bottom out. Gently remove this panel from the door and start the actuator replacement:



25. Flip that yellow tab down and remove the manual door lock rod:



26. Flip that red tab down to disconnect the interior door handle rod:



27. Here's another pick of the door lock:


In picture 25 near the bottom of the actuator is a black arm tab that holds the bottom of the actuator in place, use a screw driver to lift that tab up to slide the bottom of the actuator out.

In picture 27 there is another tab that you will need to push out of the way to slide the actuator out of the black arm. Sorry I didn't get better pictures of those.

Last edited by 6.7L MegaCab; 11-04-2017 at 05:57 PM. Reason: minor edits.
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Old 11-04-2017, 05:56 PM
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Installation is reverse of removal. Once the window track carrier is back in place and you go to connect the interior door handle rod, that black armature that holds the actuator does move side to side, so you may need to slide it left or right to connect the rod.

Be sure to gently lower the window down onto the track before putting the interior door panel back on just to make sure it snaps into place correctly so you don't damage the window. There are plastic guides on the track that makes it easy, so as long as the window is lowered fairly straight, there shouldn't be any problems with it snapping into position.

In my opinion, the black armature is not entirely necessary other than doing an excellent job holding that actuator in place to make securing it to the door a little easier. If that armature wasn't used to begin with, this probably would have been a 10-15 minute job. Otherwise, this took probably 30-45 minutes to do.
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Old 11-05-2017, 09:00 AM
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Write ups like this make a BA job more manageable because every step is shown as easy. Very good write up and including the time spent is great.
Thanks. Back to morning brew . . .
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Old 11-05-2017, 03:43 PM
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Thank you FMB!
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