sctsnpr

Morning DTR,

Operation Blacktek went this weekend. Did the Sinister EGR and Cooler delete now waiting on the UPS man to deliver my 5 in TBE.

Review of the kit.

Pro:
Coolant remains circulated, not blocked.
Back plate is pre-tapped for EGT gauge.
Block off plates are thick!
No special tools required except a 15mm crows foot for 1 bolt.

Cons:
I'm a novice when it comes to most mechanical things and the directions sucked. My IPad came into good use with both H&S and GDP directions online.

The bracket to hold the coolant lines, etc didn't line up quite right.

Lessons learned: If/When I have to re-do this and to anyone else on the 2010's you do not have to pull the back two coolant lines to get the cooler out..

Now off to run the gauges and take off the stock exhaust. For the deleted experts, did anyone get a coolant flush after deletes? Or just burp the system and add the needed coolant? I think I lost about a 1/2 gallon.

cbrahs

just make sure you burp the system VERY WELL. don't romp on the truck until you know 100% for sure you have all the air out of the system. trapped air creates steam pockets, steam pockets create stupid amounts of pressure and not good on the HG.

sctsnpr

Thanks CBrah's. I was hoping you would see this. I was half tempted to pm you and drive down to NM to "enlist" your help, haha. I have your reply on how to burp the system stickier in my computer. When funds allow a drive to NM with a GDP waste gate and ARPs is in the future..

cbrahs

well brother its only a 12 hour trip from Camp P. Been there a few times when my son was in. He just got out a couple months ago and now going to UNM for school. Doors always open for ya brother. just hollar when you are in town. Dinner and beeeeerrrsss on me!

sctsnpr

Tell your son thanks for his service! I've still got a little ways to go... 5 more until the big 20, then we'll see how it goes. If your ever back up in this region give me a shout and the dinner and beer is on me!

Delete Progress. This has been an adventure. Hope anyone else can learn from my mistakes.

Downpipe nightmare. I took a jack and a piece of wood and supported the tranny at the flat section of the tranny pan. Then unbolted the large 2 bolts on the passenger side. Then 1 large bolt on the drivers side nearest the passenger. After screwing with trying to get it down more than a 1/4 inch I realized there is 3 smaller bolts looking up thru the crossmember. Took those out, and the crossmember finally came out. Once it was time to put the crossmember back in I used a small jack to get it lined up.

After the downpipe came part 2 of the cuss fest. Easiest way I found after X amount of time messing with the new downpipe was to take the band and hang it on the turbo. Afterwards, take another jack (jack that came with the truck is perfect) and use that to get the pipe lined up from the rear while guiding it with the other hand. Once tight against the turbo you will get a nice burn in the stomach region lifting yourself in odd ways to get the clamp fully seated around the turbo and the tightened. Taking the wheel well liner off next time if I have to redo.

As per my luck the Flo-Pro does not fit a Mega-Cab truck. The extension is WAY to long. For future reference you need to cut the extension after the muffler cut to 13 and 1/2 inches. If anyone is running air bags the exhaust rattles the hell out of the corner of the plate. I'm going to have to grind about 1/4 off the corner. I'm also going to have an exhaust shop weld some hangers to support it more.

sctsnpr

Now for advice. Burping the system, since i'm nervous as hell about air so please blast away if you see something wrong.

First I took off the coolant purge plug and coolant gysered out then went to a small trickle. Once the trickle I capped it off. After that I took off the radiator cap and the coolant dropped about an inch. I then sat and squeezed the drivers side hose until it dropped maybe a 1/4 inch. I then refilled. I then started the truck, turned the heat on high and put the high idle on. I let it run for about 10 minutes and watched it bubble for about the first 10 seconds then stabilized. Turned the truck off, then squeezed the drivers side hose again and the coolant was at the same level. Then I put the radiator cap back on, turned the truck on as before and let it run. After 10 minutes I turned the truck back off and let it cool. Popped the radiator capped and it dropped maybe a 1/4 inch. The overflow level moved up a 1/4 inch so I refilled, capped the radiator and then went for a drive for a mile. Once the truck cooled I took off the radiator cap and the coolant was at the same level as before.

So did I do this correctly?

cbrahs

you can leave the cap off, set high idle and put a blanket on the front of the truck to stop air flow. let it get to operating temp squeezing the hose once in a while then once the the t-stat opens up you will watch the level drop. top off, install cap and let the t-stat open again. top off overflow jug to the "HIGH" mark then shut if off and let sit or take for a small drive (not beating on the truck with glee of your new found power) and get it to fully operating temp (i do this in the evening so when I shut it off it won't be started until the next day). then i go and check coolant levels in both radiator and overflow tank and top off if needed.

I kinda cheat though. I have a MATCO tool that puts a vacuum on the system then once a total vacuum is on the system, i flick a lever to suck coolant out of a 5 gallon jug then I only have to top off if needed after 1st heat cycle but I always check levels in the AM just cause I am analretentive

Mike Holmen

You put the plates on the intake side as well? You staying with the stock turbo or upgrading?

sctsnpr

Mike,

Eventually I want to upgrade to one of the hybrid turbos. I'm honestly not sure what mods after studs and waste gate. I'm not shooting for HP or drag, just a solid DD that tows my TH. I'm thinking converter, then fuel and turbo. I'm not crazy about the drive pressure of the stock turbo so possibly that first then transmission. I just hate the way this truck lugs, especially now with the Jr on 70 and deleted.

Stargeezer

Not trying to highjack the thread or anything, but, about the waste gate - what does the upgrade do for you? I have a high pitched howl at town speeds (maybe high speed too). A friend says it's the waste gate. afraid I can't really hear it, spent too much time behind a M16 and a 155mm, not always with the right ear protection. Dumb in other ways too ;O).

sctsnpr - Thanks for your service! We are proud of you all and you are in our thoughts and prayers everyday.

Larry Kruzan
US Army Retired

Mike Holmen

You done everything? Removing that stuff is easy, if you want to remove the egr cooler without all the warranty bs stuff that really easy.

but keeping the warranty, you have to remember to reinstalled everything as before you do the delete.

sctsnpr

Larry,

Thanks for your service! It's guys like you who have paved the way for me. Even if it was Army haha. There is no wastegate on the 6.7 VGT. I'm not sure what the howl is on your truck. The exhaust brake possibly? The external wastegate helps relieve the drive pressure from the stock turbo. The stock turbo is known to have high drive pressure, which leads to headgasket issues. This is more for guys running high HP tunes. Studs and a wastegate help alleviate that drive pressure. Just a wastegate is in my opinion a bandaid, but the combo of the two will lead to long HG life. I'm only running a 70 tune so you could say I'm going a little overboard. Chris, Blake or Mike would be able to answer that question better than I.

Mike,

I did delete both EGR and Cooler. I'm not real worried about warrenty and I know it was kissed goodbye the minute I undid the first bolt. Pay to play. What drove me over is when I pulled the crossover tube installing my MK2 from GDP and saw the crap going back into my engine. This was the first time for me attempting the deletes and now looking back it would only take me about 2 hours to get the engine stock again.

sctsnpr

Mods to my truck are as follows:

Sinister EGR/Cooler delete
5 in Turbo Back Flo-Pro with muffler
Smarty Jr
Issopro EV2s boost, fuel and EGT

So far hand calculated pre-delete my mpg was 12.9 avg. Post delete I'm up to 14.5. This is a dually with 4.10s and 33 inch tires. I have a 72 mile commute combined, with 10 miles of it being stoplight/stop and go driving.

At 70 mph:
Coolant Temp stable at 205 (EVIC)
EGT 650
Fuel pressure 12
Boost 4-6

Those are all post-delete. I do not have numbers pre-delete.