DANGER of dually spacers: Story of my 2" from hell
08-01-2012, 08:04 PM
#16
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I wonder if the dope is the problem. My information has to torque dry - no lubes, oils, grease, anti-sieze, etc. I never had any trouble with aluminum rims corroding on my last truck, but I DID have all eight studs break on the 2006 Driver rear. Lost the wheel at 55-60 mph fully loaded. I don't think the lug nuts held torque well, carrying the heavy load on a really rough stretch of pavement. I read it just takes a little flex of the rim away from the shoulder before it will let loose, putting more stress on the lugs. I can't say how the captive washer style lug nuts work with aluminum, and don't claim to be an expert, but my years of Operator Engineering lead me to believe the lugs loosened slightly under load - keeping track, cornering, something - and let the studs snap. Are there pressed thread marks inside the stud holes of the rim? That might show the direction of force on them.
Another idea, is improperly treated studs, being brittle instead of just hard. I would check the other side carefully, too!
Another idea, is improperly treated studs, being brittle instead of just hard. I would check the other side carefully, too!
I think it's far more likely they were not tight enough!
I see it all the time on things like connecting rods bolts. Overtighten a connecting rod bolt and you might yield it and loose a little load. But undertighten it, and you get bending int he bolt, and the fatigue fracture JUST like this.
Far better to run slightly overtight than slightly undertight. Almost always the case.
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Adaminak (07-17-2020)
08-02-2012, 05:57 AM
#17
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I have never seen this type of failure with a spacing setup, but it is also the first time I have seen them ran on the front.
Shlen, what is the reasoning for running them on the steer axle. Simply for a wider stance aesthetically?
Shlen, what is the reasoning for running them on the steer axle. Simply for a wider stance aesthetically?
08-02-2012, 06:55 AM
#18
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The 4th Gen that BackWoods did the bumpers for, also runs a front 2inch spacer. I have heard of guys running front spacers on lifted duallies because of the tire rubbing issue.
I would love to hear anybodies ideas on any other way to push the tires out more and stop the rub.
08-02-2012, 09:10 AM
#19
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The reason my front tires rub is due to having front dually rims that convex (dome out). Even though they have an original spacer, the offset of the convex rims, sits the tires deep into the wheel wells, thus causing larger tires to rub.
What would work (I believe) is if I bought normal front truck rims and removed the spacers all together, there should be no more issue with rubbing.
I believe that my front axle is the same length as any SW 3500 and with a SW 3500 the bolts are further (deeper) in the rim, offsetting the tires out. I know that this lift on any 3500 with 37s has no troubles with any type of rubbing.
Only problem is that I would not be able to find a matching set for the back.
What would work (I believe) is if I bought normal front truck rims and removed the spacers all together, there should be no more issue with rubbing.
I believe that my front axle is the same length as any SW 3500 and with a SW 3500 the bolts are further (deeper) in the rim, offsetting the tires out. I know that this lift on any 3500 with 37s has no troubles with any type of rubbing.
Only problem is that I would not be able to find a matching set for the back.
08-03-2012, 03:25 PM
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i am still using the original washer style lug nuts that came with those rims. There is no chamfer edge to the stud holes. I feel that is one of my issues with balancing the outer rear dually or just centering the rims in general. It would be nice to have some type of beveled edge with acorn style lug nut to center the rims.
oe wheels are hub centric so its almost impossible to center the wheels when using spacers. Those wheels are designed for the hub to carry the load. Ive worked at a very large reputable tire shop for years and we wouldnt install the outer tire for duallys running spacers bc of vibrations, wheel offs ect... My money is on its over torqued.. Also clean all that dope off you dont need it and can lead to accidental over torquing.
08-03-2012, 03:35 PM
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Are you talking about running single wheels up front?? Ive in stalled several sets of 35/37s on duallys they worked just fine look into you back spacing compare the steel wheels to the aluminum ones and see if they are different. Bolt your insides on the front and outsides bk on the rear and drive it around the block to see if that works then you know. Also manufactures are building more aftermarket options for dually wheels
08-06-2012, 08:11 AM
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oe wheels are hub centric so its almost impossible to center the wheels when using spacers. Those wheels are designed for the hub to carry the load. Ive worked at a very large reputable tire shop for years and we wouldnt install the outer tire for duallys running spacers bc of vibrations, wheel offs ect... My money is on its over torqued.. Also clean all that dope off you dont need it and can lead to accidental over torquing.
08-06-2012, 10:32 AM
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True, and very important. How "snug" is the fit of the hub and rim? Is/was it sloppy and allowed for unwanted movement, or do other concentricity issues exist that could have hurt things.
Check very carefully on the torque applied to the other wheel, and it may better help you understand what went wrong on this side.
Check very carefully on the torque applied to the other wheel, and it may better help you understand what went wrong on this side.
08-07-2012, 05:12 PM
#24
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Are you talking about running single wheels up front?? Ive in stalled several sets of 35/37s on duallys they worked just fine look into you back spacing compare the steel wheels to the aluminum ones and see if they are different. Bolt your insides on the front and outsides bk on the rear and drive it around the block to see if that works then you know. Also manufactures are building more aftermarket options for dually wheels
35 and 37 would work fine, just my truck has the long control arms that get in the way of turning.
That is the reason for the spacer. I need at least an 1 inch of offset so the tires won't rub.
My thought was to run these on the back:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/902/
And these on the front:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...544/image/884/
Instead of the matching fronts:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/881/
All black of coarse. Just want to know if anybody has ever done something like this? And will it look good.
Also the two front rims show how the dually rim (tire) is set back furthe vs the "normal" rim tires which should pull the tire out more. It should work?
08-07-2012, 05:24 PM
#25
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True, and very important. How "snug" is the fit of the hub and rim? Is/was it sloppy and allowed for unwanted movement, or do other concentricity issues exist that could have hurt things.
Check very carefully on the torque applied to the other wheel, and it may better help you understand what went wrong on this side.
Check very carefully on the torque applied to the other wheel, and it may better help you understand what went wrong on this side.
08-07-2012, 07:05 PM
#26
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...Ben
08-08-2012, 12:58 AM
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Outside of the discussion of spacers - right or wrong. I firmly believe that HOHN is bang on. they were undertorqued. and on aluminum rims especially they MUST be retorqued after 75-100 driving as the aluminum does yeild slightly after some driving. Now reTORQUED, torqued, with a torque wrench not a tire iron. It would be a safe bet you require 150 ft lbs on them. don't lube the threads or nuts. that looks like silver anti sieze, only use antiseize on the mating surface and hub bore if anything. galvanic corrosion is what your worrying about. really the rims have to be on there undisturbed and in use for years before thats a real problem.
08-08-2012, 01:01 AM
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I am running the original arcolas as noted in my pervious posts. There is nothing I can do for back spacing. What would be the point of running my inside steels on the front, and aluminum on the back. It would look like dung.
35 and 37 would work fine, just my truck has the long control arms that get in the way of turning.
That is the reason for the spacer. I need at least an 1 inch of offset so the tires won't rub.
My thought was to run these on the back:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/902/
And these on the front:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...544/image/884/
Instead of the matching fronts:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/881/
All black of coarse. Just want to know if anybody has ever done something like this? And will it look good.
Also the two front rims show how the dually rim (tire) is set back furthe vs the "normal" rim tires which should pull the tire out more. It should work?
35 and 37 would work fine, just my truck has the long control arms that get in the way of turning.
That is the reason for the spacer. I need at least an 1 inch of offset so the tires won't rub.
My thought was to run these on the back:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/902/
And these on the front:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...544/image/884/
Instead of the matching fronts:
http://weldracing.com/catalog/produc...534/image/881/
All black of coarse. Just want to know if anybody has ever done something like this? And will it look good.
Also the two front rims show how the dually rim (tire) is set back furthe vs the "normal" rim tires which should pull the tire out more. It should work?
I know what your asking there. first avoid cast aluminum rims. just don't use them. forged, all day every day. If they don't specify and they;re inexpensive they cast for sure. Junk.
Now the look. IMO looks stupid.
