Some pre-delete questions..
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Some pre-delete questions..
I just got my delete kit . They would not ship to Calif so I had to plan a trip to Oregon to pick it up at a friends place. Did some crabbing while there so it wasnt a total loss ; )
So anyway.... I have a 2010 , auto tranny .
I got the Mini Max with O.D. Tune
Turbo back 4" pipe , leaving the stock muffler and tailpipe.
EGR delete kit and valve body delete.
So , I am thinking about doing the install this weekend.
I plan on getting the tuner and exhaust installed the first day.
(maybe the egr stuff if I have time)
Question 1 , will there be any problems loading the Mini Max with only the DPF / CAT delete done ? Will I have to re-load the minimax after I do the EGR delete ? OR ? I am new to the tuner stuff.
Question 2 , any helpful hints before I start ripping stuff out ? Things that make the R & R simpler ? Maybe something that will save some busted knuckles .
Question 3 , Oh yea ! Will I have to drop the tranny cross member to get the old pieces out ? I want to save everything just in case I have to put it back on someday. I dont want to use a saws all on anything.
Question 4 Will I be glad that I did all of this ?? ; )
Thanks in advance !
Dew.
So anyway.... I have a 2010 , auto tranny .
I got the Mini Max with O.D. Tune
Turbo back 4" pipe , leaving the stock muffler and tailpipe.
EGR delete kit and valve body delete.
So , I am thinking about doing the install this weekend.
I plan on getting the tuner and exhaust installed the first day.
(maybe the egr stuff if I have time)
Question 1 , will there be any problems loading the Mini Max with only the DPF / CAT delete done ? Will I have to re-load the minimax after I do the EGR delete ? OR ? I am new to the tuner stuff.
Question 2 , any helpful hints before I start ripping stuff out ? Things that make the R & R simpler ? Maybe something that will save some busted knuckles .
Question 3 , Oh yea ! Will I have to drop the tranny cross member to get the old pieces out ? I want to save everything just in case I have to put it back on someday. I dont want to use a saws all on anything.
Question 4 Will I be glad that I did all of this ?? ; )
Thanks in advance !
Dew.
#2
Just a plain ole guy
Haven't done a delete yet, but, I did attempt an egr cleaning. I could never get the back bolt loose on the egr cooler. It's way up under the firewall. Tried multiple u joints on a socket. Nothing. That may not help other than be aware that the challenge is ahead of you. if someone else has a trick to get it loose please reply to this and tell us both how so when I do delete, I will know.
maybe a 10 is different from a 12??
Also look a the 4th Gen High perf area for the write up on deleting. It's suppose to be the Bible of deleting.
maybe a 10 is different from a 12??
Also look a the 4th Gen High perf area for the write up on deleting. It's suppose to be the Bible of deleting.
#3
Registered User
Thread Starter
Ok thanks 1-2-3. I am going to pull the plastic top cover now so that I can look at it .
I will post any tricks that I encounter / solve along the way so that I can help some future dudes and dudettes in our endeavor.
I will post any tricks that I encounter / solve along the way so that I can help some future dudes and dudettes in our endeavor.
#4
Registered User
I've done a few deletes and if you even think you might want to go back then leave the factory down pipe in and just use a DPF/NOX delete pipe, that really simplifies things. Another tip rather than buying an "EGR delete" kit just buy the "EGR COOLER" delete kit and buy an after market intake horn, removing the factory horn with the throttle valve in place simplifies things again and both these things make going back to stock that much simpler and might even be cheaper depending on what you spent for the exhaust. Ensure you seal all the connectors you remove. Douse all nuts and bolts with release oil the night before then again before you start. I think part of the problem with those 2 rear EGR cooler bolts is the stud for the inboard one only just has enough thread and I think to get it to seal the really crank it down, something to watch when installing the blocker plate. Make sure it's tight and not just thread bound. If you use an EGT probe the center of the exhaust manifold is the best and most accurate place, using the rear blocker plate location is 100-150 degrees cooler at all except idle, it also doesn't spool as quickly. I first installed at only the rear blocker plate then later added the one in the center so I run both and can compare easily.Once you get it running smoothly you will never go back unless you have to. One other thing is the manifold temp/pressure sensor in the intake horn make sure you either clean it if possible or replace it, there is an updated part number from Cummin's, looks similar but is more open. The 2 nuts in question just use a combination wrench and lots of strength. Put a battery charger on the truck while you download to ensure battery voltage stays up.
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Well thanks for the heads up 1-2-3. I just took the plastic cover off ( which I didn't really need to do , but it needed to come off anyway so its off )
The combination of tools that I used was , a 3/8" drive 15mm socket , a standard 3" extension , hook that to a 3/8" drive breaker bar. I then put a section of 3/4" pipe onto the handle of the breaker bar to give me more leverage ( cheater bar ) , I think it was a 10" piece of pipe..... I broke the bolt loose pretty easily. I tightened it back up because I am not ready to start tearing it all apart. On the other rear bolt/nut, on the far passenger side, I think that I will take the dip stick tube bracket off so that I can access this one more easily. The same tool method should work ?
I think that they built the truck around the engine !!
The easiest way to get to this bolt would be to bust out the windshield , the take a hole saw through the upper firewall , go with a 4 inch hole , then insert your 12 inch extension and socket through the hole !! Just kidding , DONT try that !
Thanks for the input !! I want this to go smoothly and need input like yours !!
DEW
The combination of tools that I used was , a 3/8" drive 15mm socket , a standard 3" extension , hook that to a 3/8" drive breaker bar. I then put a section of 3/4" pipe onto the handle of the breaker bar to give me more leverage ( cheater bar ) , I think it was a 10" piece of pipe..... I broke the bolt loose pretty easily. I tightened it back up because I am not ready to start tearing it all apart. On the other rear bolt/nut, on the far passenger side, I think that I will take the dip stick tube bracket off so that I can access this one more easily. The same tool method should work ?
I think that they built the truck around the engine !!
The easiest way to get to this bolt would be to bust out the windshield , the take a hole saw through the upper firewall , go with a 4 inch hole , then insert your 12 inch extension and socket through the hole !! Just kidding , DONT try that !
Thanks for the input !! I want this to go smoothly and need input like yours !!
DEW
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
I've done a few deletes and if you even think you might want to go back then leave the factory down pipe in and just use a DPF/NOX delete pipe, that really simplifies things. Another tip rather than buying an "EGR delete" kit just buy the "EGR COOLER" delete kit and buy an after market intake horn, removing the factory horn with the throttle valve in place simplifies things again and both these things make going back to stock that much simpler and might even be cheaper depending on what you spent for the exhaust. Ensure you seal all the connectors you remove. Douse all nuts and bolts with release oil the night before then again before you start. I think part of the problem with those 2 rear EGR cooler bolts is the stud for the inboard one only just has enough thread and I think to get it to seal the really crank it down, something to watch when installing the blocker plate. Make sure it's tight and not just thread bound. If you use an EGT probe the center of the exhaust manifold is the best and most accurate place, using the rear blocker plate location is 100-150 degrees cooler at all except idle, it also doesn't spool as quickly. I first installed at only the rear blocker plate then later added the one in the center so I run both and can compare easily.Once you get it running smoothly you will never go back unless you have to. One other thing is the manifold temp/pressure sensor in the intake horn make sure you either clean it if possible or replace it, there is an updated part number from Cummin's, looks similar but is more open. The 2 nuts in question just use a combination wrench and lots of strength. Put a battery charger on the truck while you download to ensure battery voltage stays up.
I have not bought the EGT probe yet but I will , I think you are right where you said to put it . I am a little spooked about drilling / tapping there ... upstream of the turbo , I guess that just need to stop being a girlie , slowly drill it out while the truck is running to blow out the chips ?? Still skeert about that ; )
Will do on the intake sensor .... and will keep the charger on the battery !
Great great info , thanks brother !
DEW
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#8
Registered User
I always complete the entire delete before doing the down load so I can't help there, 2 guys can easily get it done in a day but Q3 about the down pipe, I'm almost certain the cross member has to be dropped, that's one of the reasons the first delete I did my sons 2011 manual 3500 4X4 we left the down pipe in and I've done them all that way since. One other thing you MUST do is the crankcase vent delete, there is next to no cost and it will get the oily gasses out of the intake to the turbo. If you use the H&S egt probe and adapter you will be good to go but if you use the H&S "universal" egt probe and adapter which is a much better set up you will require a more recent download for the egt indication to work at all.
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yep Busboy , I should do that . On my old 98.5 it just dumped to the air. I did add an extension to it so that it didn't blow out onto my front end stuff.
So yes , I just need to figure out where the vent tube is located. I have not looked for it yet ... but I will.
I pretty much figured that I would have to take the cross member out , no biggie, support the tranny , un-bolt it , makes life easier in the long run .
I am looking forward to not having to worry about the "regens" which somehow adds to my crank case oil level ....? Burnt diesel to the crankcase ?? ... better fuel economy , more power , longer engine life and a groovy exhaust sound ( I hope its not too loud , I still want to be able to sneak up on my deer hunting spots )
Also , I had heard that there is a "turbo dampner " installed in the air intake duct ? Its supposed to dampen the turbo noise ? To me its like an air restriction , besides , I like the turbo sound , I may be taking this out too... might as well . I am not sure if the 2010 has this ??
DEW
So yes , I just need to figure out where the vent tube is located. I have not looked for it yet ... but I will.
I pretty much figured that I would have to take the cross member out , no biggie, support the tranny , un-bolt it , makes life easier in the long run .
I am looking forward to not having to worry about the "regens" which somehow adds to my crank case oil level ....? Burnt diesel to the crankcase ?? ... better fuel economy , more power , longer engine life and a groovy exhaust sound ( I hope its not too loud , I still want to be able to sneak up on my deer hunting spots )
Also , I had heard that there is a "turbo dampner " installed in the air intake duct ? Its supposed to dampen the turbo noise ? To me its like an air restriction , besides , I like the turbo sound , I may be taking this out too... might as well . I am not sure if the 2010 has this ??
DEW
#10
Just a plain ole guy
LOL on the hole drilled thru the windshield. That was exactly my thoughts. On the gen 2's there was a hole near that spot to get to the rear valve cover bolts.
Get some very good anti seize lube. Some gold stuff. It will have copper in it. Use plenty on every bolt and nut.
I actually use it on everything, including a light coat between the flat surfaces where the rear dual rims meet and where all the rims meet the hubs. It will save the find me a huge hammer on the side of the road one day.
Get some very good anti seize lube. Some gold stuff. It will have copper in it. Use plenty on every bolt and nut.
I actually use it on everything, including a light coat between the flat surfaces where the rear dual rims meet and where all the rims meet the hubs. It will save the find me a huge hammer on the side of the road one day.
#11
Registered User
Thread Starter
Yet another question.....
I noticed on my stock down pipe , down stream of the CAT , there is what I believe is an EGT probe. If I weld in a tap to my new down pipe and install the probe, will my Mini Max read this and display that EGT ?
DEW
I noticed on my stock down pipe , down stream of the CAT , there is what I believe is an EGT probe. If I weld in a tap to my new down pipe and install the probe, will my Mini Max read this and display that EGT ?
DEW
#12
Registered User
No... the mini max can't read factory EGT on the dodge truck, I believe it can on a Ford though. Besides that location is far from where the real "action" happens and you really want to know what is happening as soon as possible to prevent damage. Tapping the manifold is really no big deal, I always do it with the engine off and go slowly back and forth removing the tap to clean it out better, don't try to rush or it will clog up the tap. Cast iron is harder to tap than mild steel but use lots of lube and you'll be fine.
#13
Registered User
Thread Starter
Thx Busboy . Was just curious. I thought that I might use this temporarily for a quick fix.
I do plan on doing the right thing , were the "action" happens , very soon. I have done that sort of drilling and tapping with a big gob of grease on the bit / tap , just to grab the chips. Have also use a vacuum cleaner held by an assistant.
And yep , roger that on tapping slow in cast ...... err uhh....I have snapped some taps off in cast before : /
It would be neat to have both probes just for the heck of it .
I do plan on doing the right thing , were the "action" happens , very soon. I have done that sort of drilling and tapping with a big gob of grease on the bit / tap , just to grab the chips. Have also use a vacuum cleaner held by an assistant.
And yep , roger that on tapping slow in cast ...... err uhh....I have snapped some taps off in cast before : /
It would be neat to have both probes just for the heck of it .
#14
Registered User
Also , I had heard that there is a "turbo dampner " installed in the air intake duct ? Its supposed to dampen the turbo noise ? To me its like an air restriction , besides , I like the turbo sound , I may be taking this out too... might as well . I am not sure if the 2010 has this ??
DEW
DEW
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
I have done some pretty good builds in my younger life that all turned out good . I have way more info than then because of guys like you . I hope to at least get the exhaust ad the tuner installed tomorrow then the egr stuff done on Sat.
Hey did you see my thread about H&S performance tuners. Are they still in business of tuners ? Do you know ? I'm thinking that their tuner that I bought is going to work fine. ?? Mini Max ....
BTW ... do you hunt ? I want to do a Canada trip sometime because you guys grow them bigger there. Between the wife and I we got 3 bucks this year , I'm still waiting for my bear tag to be filled.. Steelhead is just now turning on in the river here ....but have to get my truck stuff done before it starts snowing so ... Have not been fishing yet.
Dew.