Oil Change Question
02-06-2013, 09:27 AM
#16
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02-06-2013, 11:38 AM
#18
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
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However, I still think being deleted helps because your engine isn't breathing its own exhaust. That should keep the oil cleaner for longer. At least that's what I'd think.
02-06-2013, 11:52 AM
#19
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I already changed mine but don't yet have a light on. Only 4800 miles so far.. Can we clear the light ourselves when it comes on or is it something the dealer has to do?
02-06-2013, 01:14 PM
#20
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02-06-2013, 03:51 PM
#21
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No question about it.. The deletes keep your oil cleaner longer. But the truck has no idea what the actual oil condition is. It computer checks and keeps track of multiple parameters to determine if it needs to tell you to change your oil and it's based on emissions equipped trucks.
02-06-2013, 08:08 PM
#22
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02-11-2013, 06:17 PM
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Hey guys, I am a noobie to this forum and just wanted to throw in my 2 cents.
I own a 2011 Ram 2500 with 6.7 CTD. My truck has 21K miles on it and I have suffered countless Engine Malf Lights since owning it due to O2 sensor issues. My truck is not deleted yet, kinda waiting until the warranty is out.
Anyway I have owned the truck since it was new and have always ran Rotella T in it but this past weekend it was due for oil change (3,200 miles after last change), and I decided to change the oil over to Mobil Delvac and the reason is because were changing our class 8 truck fleet over to it and it is supposed to be better oil and better with sooting issues than Rotella.
I am also running my engine brake non-stop to see if it keeps the O2 sensor issue at bay. Will let you all know how the new oil works out.
Looking forward to chatting with you all and being part of this forum!
I own a 2011 Ram 2500 with 6.7 CTD. My truck has 21K miles on it and I have suffered countless Engine Malf Lights since owning it due to O2 sensor issues. My truck is not deleted yet, kinda waiting until the warranty is out.
Anyway I have owned the truck since it was new and have always ran Rotella T in it but this past weekend it was due for oil change (3,200 miles after last change), and I decided to change the oil over to Mobil Delvac and the reason is because were changing our class 8 truck fleet over to it and it is supposed to be better oil and better with sooting issues than Rotella.
I am also running my engine brake non-stop to see if it keeps the O2 sensor issue at bay. Will let you all know how the new oil works out.
Looking forward to chatting with you all and being part of this forum!
02-11-2013, 07:04 PM
#25
Thats MR Hoss to you buddy!
Thread Starter
I ended up buying Valvoline Premium Blue. Mainly because when I was standing there looking at my options I noticed a Cummins emblem and that it was endorsed by and recommended for Cummins. Good enough for me. And by the way, none of the oil offered in my area was 5W-40. ALL of it was 15W-40. So that's what I got.
The oil that came out was thing and BLACK. Glad to get rid of it and get some fresh stuff in there.
The oil that came out was thing and BLACK. Glad to get rid of it and get some fresh stuff in there.
02-11-2013, 07:19 PM
#26
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Hey Hoss! I didn't know about the Valvoline Blue. Thanks for sharing! I have always been a fan of Valvoline in gas engines, in fact that's what we run in my wife's new Charger R/T
03-01-2013, 05:05 PM
#27
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I suggest you go on their website and pull a tech data sheet;
Where I'm at, I have used 0W40 in my 01, in both 06s and will use it in my 12. Viscosity at 100°c is in the same range for a 0W40 and a 15W40. I was horrified to find these trucks ship into Canadian dealers with 15W40, which has a pour point of -15 to -18°c. You get up to 80% of the wear occuring at start up, which is why synthetic oil is used by a lot of people here in this forum. Another advantage is a better viscosity index with synthetic, which will give your engine better protection in extreme heat applications. Where you are, a 15W40 should fine; your only concern would be the API clasification; minimum would be a CI4 or even a CJ4
Where I'm at, I have used 0W40 in my 01, in both 06s and will use it in my 12. Viscosity at 100°c is in the same range for a 0W40 and a 15W40. I was horrified to find these trucks ship into Canadian dealers with 15W40, which has a pour point of -15 to -18°c. You get up to 80% of the wear occuring at start up, which is why synthetic oil is used by a lot of people here in this forum. Another advantage is a better viscosity index with synthetic, which will give your engine better protection in extreme heat applications. Where you are, a 15W40 should fine; your only concern would be the API clasification; minimum would be a CI4 or even a CJ4
03-02-2013, 12:06 PM
#28
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I suggest you go on their website and pull a tech data sheet;
Where I'm at, I have used 0W40 in my 01, in both 06s and will use it in my 12. Viscosity at 100°c is in the same range for a 0W40 and a 15W40. I was horrified to find these trucks ship into Canadian dealers with 15W40, which has a pour point of -15 to -18°c. You get up to 80% of the wear occuring at start up, which is why synthetic oil is used by a lot of people here in this forum. Another advantage is a better viscosity index with synthetic, which will give your engine better protection in extreme heat applications. Where you are, a 15W40 should fine; your only concern would be the API clasification; minimum would be a CI4 or even a CJ4
Where I'm at, I have used 0W40 in my 01, in both 06s and will use it in my 12. Viscosity at 100°c is in the same range for a 0W40 and a 15W40. I was horrified to find these trucks ship into Canadian dealers with 15W40, which has a pour point of -15 to -18°c. You get up to 80% of the wear occuring at start up, which is why synthetic oil is used by a lot of people here in this forum. Another advantage is a better viscosity index with synthetic, which will give your engine better protection in extreme heat applications. Where you are, a 15W40 should fine; your only concern would be the API clasification; minimum would be a CI4 or even a CJ4
03-07-2013, 09:07 PM
#29
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Pull a tech data sheet from any of the lubricant manufacturers. Plug the block heater in so it will fire up, but you won't have any oil for a short period of time at start up, if it is colder then -20 to -25°c. The filter bypass will open and you won't have any filtration either. A pan heater will solve this.
15W40, ASTM D5293, Cold cranking viscosity, cP @°c/°f is 5219 (-20/-4) Borderline pumping viscosity ASTM 4684 15490 (-25/-13) (sometimes referred as the "pour point") (I am looking at a tech sheet)
I will go to my manual, under "lubricant to use" and take a picture of where is states, under -20 and 5W40 is recommended.
By the way: this is what I do for a living. (28 years) I am a certified lubrication specialist. (STLE - CLS) I am only trying to help by offering an fact based opinion.
15W40, ASTM D5293, Cold cranking viscosity, cP @°c/°f is 5219 (-20/-4) Borderline pumping viscosity ASTM 4684 15490 (-25/-13) (sometimes referred as the "pour point") (I am looking at a tech sheet)
I will go to my manual, under "lubricant to use" and take a picture of where is states, under -20 and 5W40 is recommended.
By the way: this is what I do for a living. (28 years) I am a certified lubrication specialist. (STLE - CLS) I am only trying to help by offering an fact based opinion.
03-08-2013, 01:26 PM
#30
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), parked in a sorta-heated garage at home anyway. My only issue would be if I went overnight camping when it was that cold in the booneys somewhere I couldn't plug-in.