Can anyone tell me why a truck with the manual tranny has the torque reduced to 610ft/lbs while the auto gets the full 650?
Thanks Greig

 

So that they can use a lighter return spring for the clutch pedal.
Then you don't overwork your left leg and make it deformed.
Then you would sue Chrysler cause your affliction would be all their fault!

 

Jerry, are you saying the clutch is the weak point?

 

Yeah, that's basically it.

GM did the same thing in their trucks. If you got the Allison, you had higher ratings than if you went with their ZF 6-speed manual.

 

i would say because you lose torque and hp thru the converter and tranny unlike a manual. the clutchand manual tranny are way stronger then the auto. but the clutch is the weak point in the std tranny, it will give away first most of the time. only gave away once on me the other 5 times the tranny went first

 

The clamping pressure needed for the kind of torque you can get out of these motors would require more force to depress the clutch pedal than John Q. Public would expect. You can get a nice aftermarket setup from SBC and run your torque up substantially if you are willing to press harder on the clutch. My current setup is too much for the clutch so I have to really baby it. I can slip the clutch in 6th gear with very little effort. In addition to what is in my sig, I have aftermarket injectors and turbo.

 

Have any of you driven a 2010 6spd manual? I did about a week ago and was not impressed at all...I think Dodge has done more than derate the torque by 40 ft/lbs. It was a crew cab shortbed with 3.42 rears, the truck literally didn't want to get out of it's own way, I felt I was pushing it much harder than I should be to get in moving down the road. In comparison I drove a 2009 leftover quad cab shortbed and thought that it had much more get up and go to it. I realize the new trucks weigh a little more, but not to the extent that it should make that much of difference.

I thought manual was the way I wanted to go, but I was much more pleased with the auto. When I'm seriously ready to get one I'm going to have to try both out again just to make sure but I was really puzzled with the initial drive.

Any thoughts?

 

Well I have a 2010 3500 CC SRW manual on order - should be built this week. I'll let you know. I prefer to choose my own gears, but I have not actually driven a stick since they are few and far between in stock. Any other experiences with them?

 

I drove a 2009 truck with a manual a while back, and was very disappointed as well. The engine seemed very disconnected from throttle inputs. It probably has a lot to do with emissions control then anything.

 

Do you know if the same clutch and tranny are used in the C&C trucks or do they use a heavier clutch to handle the extra weight?

 

i really liked the manual i had in my 07 2500 ctd with 3.73 gears, no complaints, lots of power too. problem you had was most likely the gearing in the rearend, 3.42 is pretty high gearing for a HD truck- good for mileage on the interstate, but makes the truck gutless off the line and around town. get some lower gears (i prefer 3.73's, best combination of mileage and power/throttle response) and you'll notice a world of difference.

it's always been my understanding that part of the reason for automatic transmission trucks having more power was to sell more automatics- less work for dealerships replacing clutches and easier to sell, the other being that it makes up for the increased power losses through the automatic powertrain.

 

Until recently, the opposite was true. In the 80's and 90's the manual trans dodge always had more power. I thought that was because the torque would shred those old automatics. Even when they started coming out with the HO (high output) option, it was only available in the 6-speed. The standard output was 5-speed manual or 4-speed auto. Not sure exactly, but this was around 2001-2004. I would think they could give a different linkage that gives more leverage to help you press the clutch. My 2000 Ford sure had a stiff clutch pedal (not sure if my left leg is he-man strengthed now, or if the clutch softened up over the miles). I was thinking that a 3.42 manual was the way to go on the next one, but I can never find a manual on the lot to test drive, and when there is one it has 4.10 or something I'm not really interested in.