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2012 bunch of codes

Old 06-13-2017, 10:05 AM
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2012 bunch of codes

Hey guys my friends Cummins is throwing codes

U01c1
P0C01
PO102
PO214
P144E
C0F14

He lost his engine brake, and codes won't clear.
We have checked fuses M21 and M37.
Was hoping to get some help before we start throwing parts at it.
Truck is bone stock.
thanks chris
Old 06-13-2017, 01:26 PM
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I chased codes on my 2012. Read everything and studied everything. Tried everything. I would also get different codes using different readers.



Then one day.....opened up the O2 sensor connections. I think there are three of them. Dirt poured out. I flushed them with contact cleaner then put them back together with a very light coating of dielectric grease. I have enjoyed a code free truck from that time on.
Old 06-14-2017, 10:17 AM
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Remove the air pressure/ temp sensor in the back side of the intake horn a single screw, maybe it's possible to clean it but if not there is an updated one from Cummins available for about $40. I would also remove the air intake to the turbo and inspect the compressor blades, also see if it rotates freely, if stock it will be very dirty.
Old 06-14-2017, 10:47 AM
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I just pulled all connectors and cleaned them out. O2 sensors had a lot of dirt in them, But still codes. And I can't clear the codes with my ScanGuageII
Old 06-14-2017, 10:52 AM
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I had to clear my codes. If you have a harbor Freight near you or a Northern Tool, they should have a scanner that you can clear codes with. The auto stores here won't clear codes anymore. Look for a 20% off coupon
Old 06-16-2017, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by 1-2-3
I had to clear my codes. If you have a harbor Freight near you or a Northern Tool, they should have a scanner that you can clear codes with. The auto stores here won't clear codes anymore. Look for a 20% off coupon
ok I got better code reader and cleared a few codes but I'm still getting codes
P0102
P144F
P144E
U010C
Old 06-17-2017, 08:49 AM
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Are you 100% certain the fuses are good? Did you actually pull them? I'd go as far as pulling and doing a continuity check.

The MAF (P0102) and turbo actuator (U0102) share the same circuit and on the same fuse. Check all the wiring. From the MAF sensor and turbo.

Do a continuity check on wires, wiggle pins on the connectors. Check for melted wires (should be associated with a blown fuse though). Could be an internal fault with the turbo actuator.
Old 06-18-2017, 09:23 AM
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I would follow diagnostics for code U010c first. Most times I see this code it turns out to be turbo actuator. On your model year actuator is non serviceable part. Turbo will need to be replaced.
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Old 06-18-2017, 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
I would follow diagnostics for code U010c first. Most times I see this code it turns out to be turbo actuator. On your model year actuator is non serviceable part. Turbo will need to be replaced.
Do you think the actuator is going bad because the vanes seize up from insufficient use of the exhaust brake?
Old 06-19-2017, 10:20 AM
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Thinking about it more, I also removed my fuse box, disassembled it, and flushed it out with contact cleaner. Mud washed out. It was a bit tricky to do. Lots of before pics.
Old 06-21-2017, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Busboy
Do you think the actuator is going bad because the vanes seize up from insufficient use of the exhaust brake?
Soot causes actuator to work harder to move vanes, using exhaust brake helps keep vanes moving freely. I run a can of turbo cleaner into turbo every 30k miles helps to keep turbo working at 100%. Every 60k I clean EGR valve and EGR cooler. Replaced breather filter and clean sensors and throttle valve. You will never have to replace DPF if soot loads are kept to min. If you are making too much soot then DPF will always be going into REGEN mode and heating up to 1200 degrees which means your fuel mileage will be in toilet.
Old 06-22-2017, 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BigIron70
Soot causes actuator to work harder to move vanes, using exhaust brake helps keep vanes moving freely. I run a can of turbo cleaner into turbo every 30k miles helps to keep turbo working at 100%. Every 60k I clean EGR valve and EGR cooler. Replaced breather filter and clean sensors and throttle valve. You will never have to replace DPF if soot loads are kept to min. If you are making too much soot then DPF will always be going into REGEN mode and heating up to 1200 degrees which means your fuel mileage will be in toilet.
With that in mind I wonder if it's possible to have the exhaust brake ALWAYS come on with the option of turning it off is slippery conditions. Although I fully deleted my 2011 with around 7000km/4500ml after having codes during the winter, last year my turbo was acting up in the spring. My truck is not a daily driver and used mostly for towing, however I move it in and out of the parking spot in the shop almost every day, about 30 ft each way. I wasn't tuning on the exhaust brake at all for the daily 60ft journey that includes 2 starts and felt this was the cause of my turbo problems, even though I never got a turbo code I could see boost pressure or lack of when huge clouds of black smoke appeared. Last winter and every time since I turn on the exhaust brake when not slippery even for the 60ft trip and no problems since.
Old 06-22-2017, 02:57 PM
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The recommended way according to Chrysler for determining if engine is operating properly is by driving at 1900 RPM and monitor soot load. If after driving 10 minutes at that RPM soot loads stay below 4 grams then engine is operating properly. Soot load will go up quickly if any engine problems are present such as turbo, injectors or emissions component is not working properly. Vehicle should not be in REGEN mode when running this test. 2011 and 2012 model year had the most problem with O2 sensor wiring harness causing O2 codes to set. Their fix was installing O2 overlay wiring harness.
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