Traveling with a Chassis Cab flat bed truck.
#1
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Traveling with a Chassis Cab flat bed truck.
Hi I have a 3500 Chassis Cab that I like to use to pull a 5th wheel with for travel.
I choose the truck cause I find flat bed's more practical than the box on a conventional truck.
Reading trough the posts here I got the indication that some States regard a flat bed truck as commercial vehicle and I would have to stop at the scales at the interstate highways.
Is my assumption correct and where do I find information in witch states that would be the case?
I choose the truck cause I find flat bed's more practical than the box on a conventional truck.
Reading trough the posts here I got the indication that some States regard a flat bed truck as commercial vehicle and I would have to stop at the scales at the interstate highways.
Is my assumption correct and where do I find information in witch states that would be the case?
#2
With age comes the cage
Welcome to the forum Yeti
You should be fine pulling a fiver, hookup to a deck-over with cargo on it and you would be on the suspicious list.. Some states down here requires a CDL for a trailer over 10K..
Make it legal for where it's registered, the only thing the other states can get you for is if your over the weight limits on tires / axles..
Fill out your sig line, it will save you having to re-post info on the truck / trailer. Instructions for that and posting pics are the top two threads of this link:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ople-f159.html
You should be fine pulling a fiver, hookup to a deck-over with cargo on it and you would be on the suspicious list.. Some states down here requires a CDL for a trailer over 10K..
Make it legal for where it's registered, the only thing the other states can get you for is if your over the weight limits on tires / axles..
Fill out your sig line, it will save you having to re-post info on the truck / trailer. Instructions for that and posting pics are the top two threads of this link:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...ople-f159.html
#3
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Thanks for the info, I was a bit concerned there in what kind of a mess I got myself into with opting for a Cab & Chassis.
Did put the truck info in the sig but it doesn't show on my post yet.
Did put the truck info in the sig but it doesn't show on my post yet.
#4
With age comes the cage
Some of the racers around here will put not for hire stickers on their units to prevent any confusion..
Are you having featherlite doing a custom build on the flatbed?
Make sure it is clear coated top and bottom as aluminum and road salts don't mix well.. another thing I did was to put a hatch over the LP, This is where the electrical ties in and it gives me access to the LP if needed..
Here's my rig:
Go to post 22 on this link and click on the small pic for a slide show of the project:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t213006p2.html
Edit:
Link added for the body builders site, go there and read up on the electrical requirements:
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf
Consider installing one of these (to protect the TIPM) at the flat bed install as well:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190.html
You should have 3 additional circuits on the up-fitter harness to feed this and or your camper as needed..
Are you having featherlite doing a custom build on the flatbed?
Make sure it is clear coated top and bottom as aluminum and road salts don't mix well.. another thing I did was to put a hatch over the LP, This is where the electrical ties in and it gives me access to the LP if needed..
Here's my rig:
Go to post 22 on this link and click on the small pic for a slide show of the project:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t213006p2.html
Edit:
Link added for the body builders site, go there and read up on the electrical requirements:
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf
Consider installing one of these (to protect the TIPM) at the flat bed install as well:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190.html
You should have 3 additional circuits on the up-fitter harness to feed this and or your camper as needed..
#5
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Thanks I read about your build and found it very informative with the resistors for the LED lights and other things.
My Bed is more used for light duty things like a case of beer or my Powered Paraglider, some large peaces of furniture perhaps.
In my area a conventional steel bed cost me the same as the Aluminum one from Featherlite only difference is in the steel bed the gooseneck hitch and sometimes the class 4 trailer hitch is integrated.
BTW I was flying in Colorado just three month ago if you like to see the place from the air just watch the video on my web page.
http://www.flyparamotor.com/Flyparam...rado+Moab.html
Here is my truck.
My Bed is more used for light duty things like a case of beer or my Powered Paraglider, some large peaces of furniture perhaps.
In my area a conventional steel bed cost me the same as the Aluminum one from Featherlite only difference is in the steel bed the gooseneck hitch and sometimes the class 4 trailer hitch is integrated.
BTW I was flying in Colorado just three month ago if you like to see the place from the air just watch the video on my web page.
http://www.flyparamotor.com/Flyparam...rado+Moab.html
Here is my truck.
#6
With age comes the cage
Nice looking truck it looks a little on the forward side with out a bed..
Is what you were calling Dinosaur Park actually Dinosaur National Monument? I live about 20 miles from there, the launch site the hang gliders use is called Cliff Ridge or we locals call it the point of the pines.. The area below the launch is called the snake pit by the hang gliders who land there when they misjudge the thermals .. Moab is about 150 from me as well.. Let me know when your coming this way and I'll be your ground man (that's native tongue for I'll drink your beer!)
Be sure to read up on the bed lights for the 2011 as they changed things around and I don't think you will need the resistors if you run LED's.. Does your truck have Urea injection?
Is what you were calling Dinosaur Park actually Dinosaur National Monument? I live about 20 miles from there, the launch site the hang gliders use is called Cliff Ridge or we locals call it the point of the pines.. The area below the launch is called the snake pit by the hang gliders who land there when they misjudge the thermals .. Moab is about 150 from me as well.. Let me know when your coming this way and I'll be your ground man (that's native tongue for I'll drink your beer!)
Be sure to read up on the bed lights for the 2011 as they changed things around and I don't think you will need the resistors if you run LED's.. Does your truck have Urea injection?
#7
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I try too avoid heavy use of the brakes otherwise I end up having it stand on it's nose
The Dinosaur Park I fly is in Alberta in the Brooks area.
In Summer I visit friends in Colorado or New Mexico and stop here and there to fly on my way down, who knows one day if I come through your are we have a Beer.
My truck has the Urea injection, it's a mixed blessing on one hand it suppose to reduce fuel consumption on the other hand you have to top up the Urea from time to time.
The Dinosaur Park I fly is in Alberta in the Brooks area.
In Summer I visit friends in Colorado or New Mexico and stop here and there to fly on my way down, who knows one day if I come through your are we have a Beer.
My truck has the Urea injection, it's a mixed blessing on one hand it suppose to reduce fuel consumption on the other hand you have to top up the Urea from time to time.
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#8
When using LEDs on the new C&Cs you still have to use resistors. The place I bought my bed from just wired in a regular light on each side under the bed and covered them in tape to act as resistors. A week later one burned out, and now I have a fast blinker.
#9
With age comes the cage
Here is the resistor link again (bottom of page) if you need it:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-b...23loadresistor
#10
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Some of the racers around here will put not for hire stickers on their units to prevent any confusion..
Are you having featherlite doing a custom build on the flatbed?
Make sure it is clear coated top and bottom as aluminum and road salts don't mix well.. another thing I did was to put a hatch over the LP, This is where the electrical ties in and it gives me access to the LP if needed..
Here's my rig:
Go to post 22 on this link and click on the small pic for a slide show of the project:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t213006p2.html
Edit:
Link added for the body builders site, go there and read up on the electrical requirements:
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf
Consider installing one of these (to protect the TIPM) at the flat bed install as well:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190.html
You should have 3 additional circuits on the up-fitter harness to feed this and or your camper as needed..
Are you having featherlite doing a custom build on the flatbed?
Make sure it is clear coated top and bottom as aluminum and road salts don't mix well.. another thing I did was to put a hatch over the LP, This is where the electrical ties in and it gives me access to the LP if needed..
Here's my rig:
Go to post 22 on this link and click on the small pic for a slide show of the project:
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...t213006p2.html
Edit:
Link added for the body builders site, go there and read up on the electrical requirements:
http://www.dodge.com/bodybuilder/year.pdf
Consider installing one of these (to protect the TIPM) at the flat bed install as well:
http://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tow-Ready/119190.html
You should have 3 additional circuits on the up-fitter harness to feed this and or your camper as needed..
Pulling race cars is more controversial and the key point is tax reporting . If you don't claim racing expenses as business expense on your tax return you can claim racing is a hobby , not a business . However some racers have been told they are commercial if they display any sponsor's logos . Receiving money from a sponsor makes them commercial .
But back to the OP the type of bed has nothing to do with whether or not a vehicle is commercial .
#11
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I learned that the bulb out function can be turned off in the computer as well in case the LED lights aren't drawing enough current.
The bodybuilder guide doesn't work on my Mac computer unfortunately.
The bodybuilder guide doesn't work on my Mac computer unfortunately.
#13
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Thanks for the help but I think I get it figured out without the wiring schematic.
I'm in the process of selling my RV so I'm running around getting things organized and fixed sorry for the late responds.
I'm in the process of selling my RV so I'm running around getting things organized and fixed sorry for the late responds.
#14
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I have a 3500 C&C quad cab and unless you are hauling a commercial load with your truck with commercial plates registered out of Alberta you do not have to worry. this summer my camper was on the deck and we traveled 7500 Canadian & US km's and the only people curious were folks wanting to know "why a flat deck". I like you, prefer a flatdeck for utility reasons and it leaves 50% less body sheet metal for jerks in parking lots to ram their doors into. PM me if you want applicable local info.
#15
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Got the truck bed on my truck.
I love the small lights on the side of the bed when I'm backing up to park the truck along a wall I can easily tell by the size of the red reflection on the wall how close I am to it.
The step in the center to get atop the deck is nice detail.
Mounting the bed on the truck was easy too.
Overall the craftsmanship is great the welds are a pleasure to look at.
I love the small lights on the side of the bed when I'm backing up to park the truck along a wall I can easily tell by the size of the red reflection on the wall how close I am to it.
The step in the center to get atop the deck is nice detail.
Mounting the bed on the truck was easy too.
Overall the craftsmanship is great the welds are a pleasure to look at.