I'm eliminating my lighter and mounting a seater heater switch in the hole. It's a perfect fit. Just wondering if I could use both cig lighter wire's for my + and -. It would just save me from splicing onto my switch wire's to run them to ground.

 

I would think it would be a great choice. A 20amp dedicated circuit. Should handle all the load you want it to.

 

Good call.

 

Ground it anywhere. The whole chasis is a ground.

 

You need to find how many amps the seat heater draws. I don't remember that ground wire being very heavy. If it was 14ga. it would be good for 15 amps, but I don't think it's even that heavy. Consider that the duty cycle of the seat heater is a lot greater than that of the lighter element.

 

According to the wiring diagrams it looks to me like the factory seat heater switch imputs the seat heater interface module. Assuming this is an accesory kit there probably isn't a module but rather relays insted. Assuming again but if there are relays for the main power of the seat heater grids themselves then the switch only needs low current to operate the relay. If this is the case the cigarette lighter conection will be sufficient. Sorry in advance if the kit you got does not have a relay (not familiar with the kit at all). If the Kit does not have a relay simply check what the fuse required for your kit is? If it is less than the fuse for the cigarrette lighter than go ahead as the circuit has already been rated for 20A or less. I also noticed in the wiring diagram that each power outlet/cigarette lighter socket is individually fused so pluggin your cell phone or laptop into one won't cause more current draw on the circuit. If the fuse for your seat heaters is higher than 20A...no problem, just a little more work. You can still use the cigarette lighter to power a relay. You will need to run fused power from the battery to the relay (this supplies the seat heaters power when the switch is turned on). The cigarette lighter wires will then power the switch, when the switch is turned on a low current is sent to the relay to tell it to turn on the higher current (from the battery) circuit.

So after all this long babble the answer is YES! It just may depend on what you use the wires from the cigarette lighter for. Personally I think I would consider wiring a relay into the picture regardless as if the heaters are rated at 20A and you put it on a 20A fuse the circuit is running at it's maximum all the time vs what it was designed for (usually less than 1/2 of what it's rated for).

 

CRXsi,,,,now that's what I call an answer. Below is a link to the seat heater I'm using. It say's on low it draw's 4 amp's, and on high it draw's 5. The instruction's called for a 10 amp fuse per seat. I also have my ISSPRO gauge amp box's on the cig lighter. The guy where I bought them said between the 2 amp box's they pull 1 amp total. Are you familar with those amp box's. Does that sound right. So,,,,if the seat's add up to 10 amp's and the gauge box's are 1 amp,,,,hey, that's 11 amp's. Do you think I'll be ok doing it like that.

While I have your attention, and you seem to know your electronic's, I have another question for ya,,,if you don't mind. I just got through installing my FASS system. The wiring harness is way too long. I'd like to shorten the wire's going back to the pump, and maybe the one's going from the relay to the factory lift pump up front. I don't trust crip connector's. I thought I read somewhere that soldering may cause some resistance. What would be the best method. Or should I just leve it along. The wire's going to the back are about 6" too long, I just have them looped up for now, but I can't stand it like that. Thank's.

http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/pedecafiunhe.html

 

At 11A you should be OK. You can always wire it in direct the way you are talking and if you find you start popping fuses then you can wire in with a relay instead. You can pick up relays at any parts store (just an inexpensive bosch relay). Like I said the only downside is that you would have to run 1 wire from a larger fused power source (add in an inline 20A fuse directly to battery or another convenient power junction). Generally if a manufacturer puts wires into a circuit that is fused they also put in heavy enough wires for that circuits rating. If they didn't then there could be lawsuits if say someone plugged a seat massager/coffee warmer doodad thingy into the cigarette lighter and it started an electrical fire instead of pooping the fuse so you are likely OK. If you wanted to run a relay don't hesitate to PM me and I'll even draw up an electrical schematic for you if it makes it easier. By the way it looks like a nice kit that you are putting in.

As for your second question...I would have no problem solder the wires if you feel comfortable doing that. Make sure you use rosin core solder and I find the thinner the better provides the best connections. Solder is mostly lead and lead has low resistance as well as excellent corrosion resistance so I can see no problem. The solder likely has lower resistance than a butt connector has and I agree that soldering is generally more permanent. The key when soldering a splice is to twist the ends together and try to leave no sharp wire ends that can pierce through insulation shrink wrap. I try to get three sizes of shrink tube. 1 that will fit around all the wires being solder to form a protective harness for the soldered area when completely done. 1 for each wire that will fit over the solder when done directly, and finally 1 for each wire that will fit over the first shrink wrap to form a double shrink wrap on each wire. This allows for extra protection from sharp ends rubbing through shrink tubing and shorting on other solder joints that may have been done or on bare metal. Sorry if this is confusing. I would highly recommend using shrink tube and not electrical tape at least for the first layer as electrical tape usually finds a way of unraveling and leaving wires exposed. If you wanted to use 1 layer of shrink tube and then electrical tape that would likely suffice as well.

If you are still wanting to use butt connectors or connectors of any type you can but I don't like them as much. I have in the past injected some RTV silicone into the connector before inserting wires and crimping to provide a weather proof seal so that the connectors and wires don't corrode (which is 1 reason I don't like crimp connectors). The other reason I don't like crimp connectors is because they sometimes have a tendency to come off the wires even when you thought it was a good crimp.

Sorry for the long post but I hope it answers your question.

 

Not to change the subject,but can this seat heat be mounted between the original seat and the aftermarket seat cover?

 

Thank's for your answer CRXsi. Solder it is.

Ozman. The heater has to be used between the foam and original seat cover. At least that's what the instruction's say. I would think it would get too hot otherwise.

 

did anyone look at his link to the seat heaters??? If you look to the right in the bar of other products you will see "spray on tire chain" Read about it... It sure made me laugh!!