Dieseljunky, I agree with you and that is what I am trying to find out. To be honest, I didn't even think about that, so, thanks.

 

You may not have a 7500lb trailer but you may as well have. Firstly have you checked what your cargo carrying capacity is (should have been a sticker or letter in your glove box stating the max load to be put in your bed as well as center of gravity,etc.). The next is have you weighed your rig to see if it is within the gross vehicle weight rating (sticker is in LF door jamb area) and finally have you checked if your front and rear axle weights are within the rated capacity (again sticker in LF door jamb)? I can just about guarantee that you have drastically exceeded your legal weight ratings. The 3500lb camper alone (3500 lbs loaded? or unloaded...if unloaded then it is likely another 1200lbs by the time you get water, propane and supplies in there!) is overweight for your 2500 truck, put the tounge weight of the trailer there and you are definitly in the dangerous area!! . Simply find a roadside scale in your area and take the truck and tailer/camper there to see for yourself what the weights are...hopefully it will be an eyeopener for you and you will think twice.

I bought a 3500 DRW because I had a 3500lb camper and would not have considered any less as even with the DRW it was still close to the GVWR. I was scepetical about towing with this setup and therefore didn't. Trailer brakes may help some but still doesn't solve the fact you are exceding your GVWR as well as possibly you gross combined weight rating. Plain and simple...start looking for a 3500 truck if you are going to continue using the camper and towing!

I was uncomfortable with my camper (and the associated weight issues) and decided to sell it and buy a trailer...either I will tow the RV or the race car trailer...not both.

 

I pull 15k behind my o6 dually and also haul a 2000lbs cab over camper. I have a prodigy controller and have no problem stopping quick if needed

 

What is expensive about stopping while hauling a load?

Install exhaust brake to stop most of the load and slow you on the hills. Then install brakes on the boat trailer to help stop you in a panic situation.

This is a no brainer.

You bought the truck, boat and the camper, but $2K more to ensure saftey is too expensive?

I just don't get it.

To answer you question.......I use a Jacobs brake and a Prodigy controller that powers my installed electric trailer brakes at ALL four wheels.

 

I agree!!! It is also illegal to operate a 7500 lb. trailer without brakes

 

Guys, he does not have a 7500lb trailer, but he could be exceeding the GVWR.

Get the prodigy and the exhaust brake, equip the trailer accordingly.

Good luck, you're a lucky man to be having these "problems"