Whinches
Whinches
What is a good winch to put on our trucks that isn't going to murder my bank account? I Don't want anything fancy, just something that will not break all the time and doesn't cost a fortune.
A used Warn winch is usually a better deal than most of the cheapie ones new and will last longer. Check your local cgraigslist and Kijji.
Be advised that a PROPER mounting system for it often costs more than the winch.
Be advised that a PROPER mounting system for it often costs more than the winch.
I've got an electric MileMarker 12K winch on mine. I haven't used it much but it has worked fine the few times I have used it. Probably about as cheap as you can buy a winch.........for it's size.
And I suggest you get AT LEAST a 12K winch. More if you can afford it. I hear a good rule of thumb is 1.5 times the weight of your vehicle....so an 8K winch is to light for our trucks........if that is true.
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And I suggest you get AT LEAST a 12K winch. More if you can afford it. I hear a good rule of thumb is 1.5 times the weight of your vehicle....so an 8K winch is to light for our trucks........if that is true.
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1.5 sounds reasonable. If it has to pull all the weight out of something that the truck can't get it's self out of, then I can see where the additional 50% of the weight rating would be a safe bet.
As far as a "porper" mounting setup. I am not that worried about it. I will not be doing rock crawling or anything that the winch will be used in dangerouse situations much. I am getting it for the chance that I get buried at the deerlease.
As far as a "porper" mounting setup. I am not that worried about it. I will not be doing rock crawling or anything that the winch will be used in dangerouse situations much. I am getting it for the chance that I get buried at the deerlease.
Doesn't matter if you are rockcrawling or stuck in a mudhole at the deer lease. The "danger" factor is EXACTLY the same. If something comes loose under load, you (or any bystanders) could be killed. The winch must have a mounting plate that is frame anchored, and that will cost a few hundred bucks. It's just a cost of having and using a winch (just like using the proper gauge wire to get enough juice to the winch).
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I've got an electric MileMarker 12K winch on mine. I haven't used it much but it has worked fine the few times I have used it. Probably about as cheap as you can buy a winch.........for it's size.
And I suggest you get AT LEAST a 12K winch. More if you can afford it. I hear a good rule of thumb is 1.5 times the weight of your vehicle....so an 8K winch is to light for our trucks........if that is true.
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And I suggest you get AT LEAST a 12K winch. More if you can afford it. I hear a good rule of thumb is 1.5 times the weight of your vehicle....so an 8K winch is to light for our trucks........if that is true.
..
Doesn't matter if you are rockcrawling or stuck in a mudhole at the deer lease. The "danger" factor is EXACTLY the same. If something comes loose under load, you (or any bystanders) could be killed. The winch must have a mounting plate that is frame anchored, and that will cost a few hundred bucks. It's just a cost of having and using a winch (just like using the proper gauge wire to get enough juice to the winch).
Why do they need to be mounted to the frame? I see jeeps all the time with them mounted to the bumpers.
The 1.5 times gross vehicle weight thing is a general rule of thumb. You must remember that the 8K winch rating is on the first wrap of cable on the drum and just before the point of the winch motor stalling - in other words, the absolute max load the winch can pull. Every additional wrap of cable on the drum is worth another 12% reduction in pulling power. An electric winch has a very short duty cycle when running at max load should not be used frequently in that condition. If the winch is used frequntly at max load, you have the wrong winch for the application.
There really isn't any way around the fact that a truck weighing around 8000 LBS or close to it, really should have a 12K winch. Demanding winching with an 8K truck would not preclude the use of a 15-16.5K winch, either. The 1.5 times GW is just a general guide - more demanding conditions may dictate the need for a stronger winch.
The winch has to be mounted directly to the frame no ifs, ands or buts! Jeeps have many winch bumpers available for them that are very sturdy and intended to accomodate a winch that in turn does bolt directly to the frame. You can get similar winch mount bumpers for your Dodge. Also, several jeep models have a winch mounting plate available that sits right over top of the OEM bumper that may make it appear as though the winch is mounted to the factory bumper, but I assure you it is not.
Yea I know the bumpers are mounted to the frame and have the winch mounted to the plate on the bumper. I was planning on buying a Ranchhand that is configured just like that. He made it sound like you have to mount it directly to the frame and not to the bumper mount on the after market bumpers.
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I was just over at the Warn site and it looked like they were having a sale. Since I was just there I'll add a little more info here, remember Warn also offers a hybrid. That means you get a winch and air compressor in one. They also have a kick butt stand alone 12v compressor now.
Power: 12V DC motor
Maximum Pressure Rating: 125 PSI (862 kPA)
Airflow Rating: 20 CFM @ 0 PSI; 8 CFM @ 90 PSI; (566 l\min @ 0 kPA, 226 l/min @ 620 kPA)
Intercooler/Air Reservoir Size: 1 gallon (3,78 liter)
Maximum Pressure Rating: 125 PSI (862 kPA)
Airflow Rating: 20 CFM @ 0 PSI; 8 CFM @ 90 PSI; (566 l\min @ 0 kPA, 226 l/min @ 620 kPA)
Intercooler/Air Reservoir Size: 1 gallon (3,78 liter)
Rick I think he answered it better than I could right here....below. I honestly don't know alot about winches...but I knew 1.5 x truck weight was a general rule.
****** blocks can only take you so far....and they have limitations of their own, too.
The 1.5 times gross vehicle weight thing is a general rule of thumb. You must remember that the 8K winch rating is on the first wrap of cable on the drum and just before the point of the winch motor stalling - in other words, the absolute max load the winch can pull. Every additional wrap of cable on the drum is worth another 12% reduction in pulling power. An electric winch has a very short duty cycle when running at max load should not be used frequently in that condition. If the winch is used frequntly at max load, you have the wrong winch for the application.
There really isn't any way around the fact that a truck weighing around 8000 LBS or close to it, really should have a 12K winch. Demanding winching with an 8K truck would not preclude the use of a 15-16.5K winch, either. The 1.5 times GW is just a general guide - more demanding conditions may dictate the need for a stronger winch.
The 1.5 times gross vehicle weight thing is a general rule of thumb. You must remember that the 8K winch rating is on the first wrap of cable on the drum and just before the point of the winch motor stalling - in other words, the absolute max load the winch can pull. Every additional wrap of cable on the drum is worth another 12% reduction in pulling power. An electric winch has a very short duty cycle when running at max load should not be used frequently in that condition. If the winch is used frequntly at max load, you have the wrong winch for the application.
There really isn't any way around the fact that a truck weighing around 8000 LBS or close to it, really should have a 12K winch. Demanding winching with an 8K truck would not preclude the use of a 15-16.5K winch, either. The 1.5 times GW is just a general guide - more demanding conditions may dictate the need for a stronger winch.
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