What's the appeal of "debadging"?
Originally Posted by rufusrufgut
What are you people using to remove the emblems. i had an emblem get knocked off and can't remove all the rubber stuff left behind.
the cummins badges i used wd40 & elbow grease to remove them. they took about 30 min each to remove all the goo... a few weeks later, i used a pinstripe removing wheel to remove the others.. took about 45min for the rest of the badges [fishing line the plastic off, with the wheel, grind the foam/glue off]
I haven't yet taken the "SLT" badges off my 2nd gen, but I'm going to.
You won't believe how much cleaner it makes the truck look-- ESPECIALLY a 2nd gen that has the gaudy door badges with the red "Cummins 24V turbo diesel" lettering.
I also took off the tailgate decals. At first, I took off the selling dealership decal. They didn't pay me anything to advertise for them, so I'm not going to. Then I removed the Dodge and 4x4 logos as well.
As for stealth, there's no hiding that a 2nd gen HO is a diesel! I figured that only a total moron would need a sticker to tell them that my truck is Cummins powered.
Justin
You won't believe how much cleaner it makes the truck look-- ESPECIALLY a 2nd gen that has the gaudy door badges with the red "Cummins 24V turbo diesel" lettering.
I also took off the tailgate decals. At first, I took off the selling dealership decal. They didn't pay me anything to advertise for them, so I'm not going to. Then I removed the Dodge and 4x4 logos as well.
As for stealth, there's no hiding that a 2nd gen HO is a diesel! I figured that only a total moron would need a sticker to tell them that my truck is Cummins powered.
Justin
Originally Posted by rufusrufgut
What are you people using to remove the emblems. i had an emblem get knocked off and can't remove all the rubber stuff left behind.
Instead, use what a body shop calls an "eraser wheel". You can get them at a NAPA for about $18.
It's a soft rubber (eraser) disc that you can chuck into a drill. Crank up your drill and go to town "erasing" the residue.
It WILL NOT harm the paint. If anything, it has a "clay bar" type of effect on the paint and makes it very clean.
Just wax that spot after your done and it will look like the badge was never there.
jh
Originally Posted by HOHN
To remove the rubber stuff, DO NOT USE a chemical.
Instead, use what a body shop calls an "eraser wheel". You can get them at a NAPA for about $18.
It's a soft rubber (eraser) disc that you can chuck into a drill. Crank up your drill and go to town "erasing" the residue.
It WILL NOT harm the paint. If anything, it has a "clay bar" type of effect on the paint and makes it very clean.
Just wax that spot after your done and it will look like the badge was never there.
jh
Instead, use what a body shop calls an "eraser wheel". You can get them at a NAPA for about $18.
It's a soft rubber (eraser) disc that you can chuck into a drill. Crank up your drill and go to town "erasing" the residue.
It WILL NOT harm the paint. If anything, it has a "clay bar" type of effect on the paint and makes it very clean.
Just wax that spot after your done and it will look like the badge was never there.
jh
At any auto body shop there is a 3M product called "Adhesive Remover". Safe for paint & clear coat and great for getting rid of the final layer of goo. I use it all the time to remove adhesive residue.
Geico-- I used that chemical, too. It *is* perfectly safe, but it makes a gooey mess.
I found the eraser wheel to be a better option for me. It also makes a big mess (eraser shavings), but it's a lot easier to clean up-- just vacuum.
The goey mess the chemicals make seems to be a lot more work.
There are pros and cons to each, and if you can't find an eraser wheel, then obviously your decision is made for you.
jh
I found the eraser wheel to be a better option for me. It also makes a big mess (eraser shavings), but it's a lot easier to clean up-- just vacuum.
The goey mess the chemicals make seems to be a lot more work.
There are pros and cons to each, and if you can't find an eraser wheel, then obviously your decision is made for you.
jh
Originally Posted by HOHN
Geico-- I used that chemical, too. It *is* perfectly safe, but it makes a gooey mess.
I found the eraser wheel to be a better option for me. It also makes a big mess (eraser shavings), but it's a lot easier to clean up-- just vacuum.
The goey mess the chemicals make seems to be a lot more work.
There are pros and cons to each, and if you can't find an eraser wheel, then obviously your decision is made for you.
jh
I found the eraser wheel to be a better option for me. It also makes a big mess (eraser shavings), but it's a lot easier to clean up-- just vacuum.
The goey mess the chemicals make seems to be a lot more work.
There are pros and cons to each, and if you can't find an eraser wheel, then obviously your decision is made for you.
jh
I use a hair dryer on the emblem (heat gun is faster, but be very careful on the paint) to get the adhesive good and hot. Then the fishing line removal. Then WD-40 or adhesive removal chemical if there's any left - usually a soapy rag does the job. It works best if you have someone else lift one edge of the emblem at an angle as you work the fishing line.
Originally Posted by HOHN
To remove the rubber stuff, DO NOT USE a chemical.
Instead, use what a body shop calls an "eraser wheel". You can get them at a NAPA for about $18.
It's a soft rubber (eraser) disc that you can chuck into a drill. Crank up your drill and go to town "erasing" the residue.
It WILL NOT harm the paint. If anything, it has a "clay bar" type of effect on the paint and makes it very clean.
Just wax that spot after your done and it will look like the badge was never there.
jh
Instead, use what a body shop calls an "eraser wheel". You can get them at a NAPA for about $18.
It's a soft rubber (eraser) disc that you can chuck into a drill. Crank up your drill and go to town "erasing" the residue.
It WILL NOT harm the paint. If anything, it has a "clay bar" type of effect on the paint and makes it very clean.
Just wax that spot after your done and it will look like the badge was never there.
jh
Well I am going to add a process that I use on any double sided tape stick on item. I have debadged completely two Dodge trucks. First time, first Hemi emblem took a long painful time. Did the get most off, then rub like heck with four or five different cleaners. Then I tried something a little different.
I used a plastic sharp scrapper. I slid/cut between the badge and tape as close to the badge as possible. This left almost all of the tape on the truck. Then work a corner or edge up enough to get between fingers/fingernails. Pull slowly sideways, or parallel with truck body. The 3m tape pulled to the side will start to loose its makeup, but will normally stay together. It is like it had suction holding it to the truck and the suction releases and the tape stretches as it releases. I have after enough practice been able to remove all of the tape from one badge with one or two starts in this manner. This pulls off/removes nearly all of the adhesive on the truck. It took a
little over an hour to do all badges on current truck.
Ok not the best visual I guess, but I tried.
I used a plastic sharp scrapper. I slid/cut between the badge and tape as close to the badge as possible. This left almost all of the tape on the truck. Then work a corner or edge up enough to get between fingers/fingernails. Pull slowly sideways, or parallel with truck body. The 3m tape pulled to the side will start to loose its makeup, but will normally stay together. It is like it had suction holding it to the truck and the suction releases and the tape stretches as it releases. I have after enough practice been able to remove all of the tape from one badge with one or two starts in this manner. This pulls off/removes nearly all of the adhesive on the truck. It took a
little over an hour to do all badges on current truck.
Ok not the best visual I guess, but I tried.
I guess Im one of the few that left all the badges on the truck.. Im proud that my truck is a dodge, a cummins and a 4x4... the only thing I do i wash it wax it and put tires and fuel in it.
Scott
Scott
I put Cummins badges on because I'd prefer people (customers and DOT) not be able to tell it was/is a 2500 on first glance.
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/nobed/DSCN0681.JPG
http://xj.cdevco.net/auto/nobed/DSCN0681.JPG
Amazing... you guys can go and use fishing line, scrapers, heat guns, eraser wheels, ect ect ect, to remove emblems from the paint safely, and I can't even go to a full service fuel station to fill up w/o having the attendant lean up against the side of the truck and run his dirty, greasy, grit covered carhart across the paint and scratch it. So from now on, I fill it or noone fills it... "If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all".
I'm w/ dieseljunkie- proud to have a dodge, CTD, 4X4. Remove all that, these bozos who think their rice burners and sports cars are all that won't know what just filled their cab with diesel exhaust.
I'm w/ dieseljunkie- proud to have a dodge, CTD, 4X4. Remove all that, these bozos who think their rice burners and sports cars are all that won't know what just filled their cab with diesel exhaust.



