Want To Change My Antifreeze To Waterless Coolant But You Have To Get !!!all !!! The Water And Old Antifreeze Out. Can This Be Done An How .

 

Here is the skinny....
I changed my last vehicle over to Evans waterless coolant and the process is simple. Drain all of your coolant into containers for proper disposal.
Refill your radiator with fresh water and let the motor run until thermostat opens. Drain again. Repeat this process once more. Then remove the block plugs to the coolant cavities and flush out the last bit of coolant. Let everything drain as well as reasonable. Put the plugs in and add your waterless coolant. Assuming that you are going to go to a no pressure system, the small amount of water that remains will not mix with the new coolant and will in fact become vapor/steam into the air. (It turns to vapor much lower temp than waterless) For the first few jogs around where you get it to normal operating temp., when you return home you may need to top it off a little. If you are going on a long trip, check it every 200 miles or so for and top off as needed. The less water you have remaining the less waterless coolant you will need to add. Takes a little time, a little patience, but you will never have to fool with your coolant again. It is truly lifetime.
Good Luck

 

Are you talking about the pressure fit freeze plugs if not ,where are the plugs your talking about and how many are there ?does your truck run cooler?

 

He probably means the pipe plug(s). They are usually lower in the water jacket than the freeze plugs. Look along the sides of the block just above the oil pan - that's where they should be. What about corrosion inhibitors - are they necessary in that stuff? Craig

 

I don't believe corrosion inhibitors are needed. Also, you want to make sure you only have 5% water left in the truck. When you flush, use distilled water, not tap water or well water.

 

where are the block drains?

did you notice any difference with the Evans coolant like they claim? quieter operation?

 

Go To There Web Site And Read Up On Npg+ Cost A Lot And A Real Pain To Put In But Looks Like Its Worth In The Long Run If You Tow Or Race.good For Over 300,000 Miles And No Chance Of Corrison Or Rust And No Boil Over Good To -40. Diesels Must Have Less Than 3%water In System When You Put Npg+ In,seems Impossible To Me To Get Your Block And Heater And Raidiator That Dry.!!!!!!!!!!!!if You Leave Water In Your System You Have Wasted Your Money By Putting The Npg+ In!!!!!!!!!!!

 

I think there was a article in Diesl Power mag regarding Evans or NPG or something. It may help to read it or maybe take it somewhere to get done.