Hi everyone,

This is my 1st time posting so I would like to introduce myself. My name is Robert and I have a '06 CTD Mega. I just bought an '07 40' Ragen Toy Hauler that is 102" wide and has a GVWR of 17K. The center of the pin extends 2 1/2" in front of the farthest leading edge of the front cap. The issue that I have is I wanted to buy the Pullrite 18K Superglide but Pullrite told me that the trailer cap will still hit my cab, so they said I have to go with the 24K which is $600 more. They said the problem lies with Dodges short wheel base. Not sure if they are just trying to make more money off me or not. Anyone have this set up? Any help with this would be much appreciated.

_________________
2006 Blk Mega Laramie CTD 2500 SRW 3:73 NV4500 19MPG town & 21MPG Hwy
Upgrades: Bully Dog Triple Dog, Overhead Console Pod, Auto Meter Lite Gauges Boost, Pyro, Diff. Temp, Air Raid intake, FASS, 4" Exhaust Muff, & Res. delete, 6" SS Silverline tip, Mag Hytec Diff cover, Ride Rite Bags, Royal Purple Fluids, 18" Moto Metal, 305/65-18 Nitto Terra Grapplers, SS nerf bars, SS rockers, SS wheel well trim, SS door & tailgate handles, Ram Air hood, Rhino Lining

2007 4005 Ragen Stryker 5er Toy Hauler

 

Either way, the mounting point is just forward of your rear axle.
That's the way I run mine and I have never had a problem, but I do watch how I take sharp turns.
If you want, get a sliding hitch rail.

 

I have a superglide 3300 (16K) GTW 16K, vertical load max of 4K lbs. See my sig for my 5er. Pullrite might have told you that based on the shape of your front aero cap and clearance needed. The 16K and 18K models travel a max of 14". The 24K version travels up to 18" so this may be why Pullrite mentioned the 24K model. If you discussed your exact 5er (model number, yr) and your short bed Dodge then I would bet they are right about the 24K model needed for your set up. A couple of things to keep in mind about this hitch is hitching up properly and un hitching angle. You need to be careful that you allow the king pin plate to ride up the swivel plate when hitching up or you can jam the locking collar, #2 you need to be within 16 degrees of center line of the truck when hitching and unhitching due to the superglide cam follower. Neither is a big deal but there have been a few times when I pulled into a camp site and wanted to unhitch but was outside the 16 degree angle. Hope this helps. The Superglide is not cheap but I can tell you from 7 yrs of using mine that it was worth every penny in my opinion. If you still question the info from Pullrite go pay a visit to a local RV place and start asking questions. Remember even if you measure everything and think you have clearance with a 18K keep in mind situations when the truck is level and the trailer is not...like pulling out of a gas station...truck is on the road and level but the 5er is still up higher and following the truck to come down over the curb. These situations the 5er Aero cap does get closer to the truck cab (trust me)

 

Ok, thanks for the advise

 

I Believe the Hijacker autoslide 18k that i have will move 18 inches,i have a standard pin box that is approx 4 inches inside the cap and have turned close to 90 degrees more than once with no issues,this is a great hitch in my opinion,over 20000 miles with no problems.

 

The Hijacker Autoslide 18K travels 14". Nice hitch, looks like a copy of the Pullrite with a few different design features

 

Welcome to the DTR, Robert!

I cannot shed too much light on your question about towing...

But when you get a chance, check out the following thread.

Click Here

 

I think 03CTDCO is right and giving you solid advise. I'm betting that Pullrite suggested the 24K model due to the width of the toy hauler. I can get 90* with my 5er and 16K superglide but it's not 102" wide.

Just some quick measurements to think about (disclaimer: not exact measurements but may give some insight as to why they are suggesting the 24k hitch)

Bed length = ~75" Divide by 2 =37.5", if hitch pin sits 2" forward of center, that leaves ~35" between center of kingpin and edge of bed with truck and trailer lined up straight. If the hitch slides back 14", that gives you 49" (35+14) between the center of the kingpin and the edge of the bed fully turned. Your toy hauler is 102" wide, divide by 2= 51" from edge of TH to center of kingpin. This would be the distance you would need to get 90*. There is not enough room there.

Now the 24K hitch. It slides back 18" + 35"= 53" from center of kingpin to edge of bed. 53"-51" leaves you 2" extra room from edge of bed at 90*. I don't remember the measurement from the edge of the bed to the back glass but if it is 2" then you would have 4" from the edge of the TH to the back glass. This is where 03CTDCO was saying you kind of have to watch when making hard turns that have dips involved.

I know these measurements are simplistic and not totally accurate, but it may shed some light on their suggestion to use the 24K. Also, the 18K is getting close to being maxxed out at the GVWR rating of your toy hauler. The 24K would have a lot more "fudge" room on the weight rating of the hitch.
I agree that the Superglide hitch was worth every penny.

 

Thanks for the Megacabdad, & Whitemule the info you provided makes total sense now, thanks alot. I just wish I could find someone that has the same toy hauler, hitch and truck. The front cap actually slopes back about 10" from the bottom of the cap, and the measurement from there to the center of the pin is 10". Im wondering if they made the front cap that way to allow for the extra clearance when you turn or if it even makes a difference. I need to pick up my trailer this next weekend, so im trying to figure this all out before hand.

 

That slope back will not make any difference. It is the width of the TH front that makes the difference. The kingpin stays on the center line of the truck when sliding back which still deals the problem of not enough room to go 90. IMO,The kingpin is not in front of the cap far enough so the the leading edge of the cap is back far enough to keep the edge outside the bed when getting 90*.

I understand your not wanting to spend the extra money on an already expensive hitch. But for me it would be more painful to buy the lesser but still expensive hitch and find out it won't work like you want. I can tell you with my hitch, the front of my fiver still gets real close to the back window when I get 90*. The first thing I did when I got my hitch was have my Father-In-Law walk beside the truck as I was jackknifing to test things and see how far I could go. This way he could stop me before I crushed anything in case there was a problem. Once I found out that I could get 90* without a problem, the only thing I have to watch for now is doing this with a dip (rare) as discussed earlier.
The nice part of these hitches is that you don't have to worry about forgetting and getting the front of the trailer into the back of the cab, and no levers or pins to slide it, it's automatic. It makes thing a lot more worry free. One of the things that we considered also was that it would only take one time of forgetting and letting the front of the trailer get into the back of the cab to pay for the hitch. That would be an expensive lesson.

 

Also, it doesn't say where you are from. There may be someone close to you that could actually go hook up and try things with their hitch for you.

 

Ok, I think I found another option. If I were to buy a 20K Reese manual slider with a 5th Airborne Sidewinder. 5th Airborne claims it will provide 18" of clearance for those short bed applications. It claims that most short bed applications can turn 90 degrees. With my luck Im sure my application is the exception. Anyway do any of you have this setup? Im sure the ride is smoother atleast.

 

Don't know anything about that the Reese with the 5th Airborne Sidewinder. I can say you have a HUGE 40ft 5th wheel with the capacity to carry your toys so I would go with the best hitch on the market. I'd still get the SuperGlide 24K if that was my set up. Just my 2 cents. Let us know what you decide. Good luck

 

On mine with no slider I can't turn 90 degrees or I'd hit the cab.

I've owned this truck for three years and pulled the RV all over the US and never had a problem. I just don't turn that tight.

You'll be fine getting it home, and you can always buy a slider rail.

 

I live in a sub-division, and my side gate is only 123", so Im worried that I might have to jack it to get it in my side yard. Also Im worried bout towing it through town and having to turn sharp. Should I not be worried bout these things? Im not the most experienced Rver, & Ive only even had travel trailers, & race car haulers. I really like having the air bag and damper shock on the pin box, with such a long TH. The 24K Superglide is $3K, Vs the Reese and the Sidewinder $2K. Plus anyone can pull the TH with the Reese Sidewinder setup. Im leaning more towards the latter, just wish I could find someone that has that setup. I sound like an old woman, I cant make up my mind! Thanks for the info.