tire camber and ball joints
tire camber and ball joints
Does anybody know the specs for camber of the '04 Dodge with 33" tires and a 4" lift ? And what's the best way to achieve that? With adjustable ball joints or offset ball joints? Or start with stock and go from there?
I ordered a set of XRF ball joints - excellent tech website on caster and camber, but no exact specs for my truck. I'd like to know before I have them installed...
Any help on this subject would be appreciated! South Texas
I ordered a set of XRF ball joints - excellent tech website on caster and camber, but no exact specs for my truck. I'd like to know before I have them installed...
Any help on this subject would be appreciated! South Texas
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
I decided it was best to get new non adjustable or non offset ones. This gives you a starting point as to where your axle is with no play in the ball joints and it gives you a chance to see how the truck drives this way.
Make sure the tires are new or at least in excellent condition before deciding there is a problem with caster or camber.
Keep the alignment specs you get with the new joints for future reference. There seems to be some variation in caster between the left and right in the AAM axles and this could be dialed out later with an offset joint if needed.
I'm running maximum caster (bottom of the axle housing rotated forward) at the adjusters to minimize the chance of shimmy.
Mine was pulling severly with my 315 BFGs. I got new Toyos and put in new ball joints. The specs still showed the caster to be off a bit but it drives just fine now.
Make sure the tires are new or at least in excellent condition before deciding there is a problem with caster or camber.
Keep the alignment specs you get with the new joints for future reference. There seems to be some variation in caster between the left and right in the AAM axles and this could be dialed out later with an offset joint if needed.
I'm running maximum caster (bottom of the axle housing rotated forward) at the adjusters to minimize the chance of shimmy.
Mine was pulling severly with my 315 BFGs. I got new Toyos and put in new ball joints. The specs still showed the caster to be off a bit but it drives just fine now.
camber is not adjustable on our solid axles only caster and toe. unless something is bent/tweaked your camber should be in spec so you only need adjustable/offset bj's if you know the camber is way off. more caster (4.5+) seems good for a lot of people in helping return to center and no shimmy. toe should be in only slightly...
If your camber if far enough out of spec to need adjustable ball joints to correct you most likely have a bent axle housing. At this point it would also be going through axle seals pretty quickly.
I agree and adjustable BJ's are junk. Stick to a good BJ like the Dyna Tracs!
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DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Or you just have worn ball joints. So get new non adjustable ones and record the alignment specs for later
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