I'm in the process of removing the spacers from the rear springs to lower the back ride height. I've managed to get everything apart except the stupid spacer blocks themselves. My guess is the bolts are rusted to the bar stock and they won't budge...any thoughts on how to get 'em apart so I can have all the pieces available if I need to go back to stock for whatever reason?
I can tell you a small hammer, a medium hammer, a large hammer, a hammer striking the back of an axe trying to wedge the pieces apart, throwing them to the ground in a fit of rage and profuse cussing did not do the trick...

Thanks,
Adam

 

Well I have to ask... did you remove the 2 center bolts that hold the spring pack together? I think those bolts go all the way thru - including thru the spacers. I've had my spacers out but had to put them back in to have enough travel. Craig

 

Don't remove that bolt that holds the spring pack together without holding it with 2 c-clamps.

 

Don't try to do both side at once either! Also, the threads don't go very far down on the center bolts and you will need to use spacer washers on the top to get them to pull the springs back together if you take out very much. Craig

 

Yep, and that's the part I'm having a problem with. The whole assembly (spacers and both bolts) is seized into one solid piece, and nothing will budge. I'm going to mess with it a bit more, but if I can't get them separated into components I'll just use shorter bolts to secure the leafpack and throw the spacers in a box somewhere until I have time to visit a machine shop with a press. My measurements show the u-bolts have enough thread to secure tightly without moving the spacers to the top, so at least that's going in my favor...

 

I used a jack stand on the frame just ahead of the rear tire and another on the rear of the spring pack itself while lowering the axle away from the springs...seemed to work alright, and I didn't have any problems when I pulled the spacers and bolts out the bottom. I was more concerned with side to side play and not being able to get things lined back up, but that didn't appear to be a problem either...

 

I've had to pry springs apart, one at a time before, because of rust or else the center bolt had been partially sheared between each leaf and it locked them all together. With 2 center bolts the size that our springs have, it would take a heck of a shear force to do that. My truck has always been in the desert and it had no rust problems when I worked on the springs, at all. Craig

 

wouldn't it be easier to just do a leveling kit up front?

 

No. It's far easier to lower the rear and usually only takes about an hour max to do both sides. Plus it sits lower and is easier to load and get into.

The main problem is the reduced suspension travel before it hits the stop. I ran mine lowered for years and liked it, but now I'm loaded a lot and got tired of the bottoming. Now it's back to stock in the rear.

I also got tired of the front bottoming so much so I lifted it one inch and added Timbrens.

 

Maybe, but I'm putting on 315s, and the topper won't fit through the garage door if I don't lower the back an inch or so. I may still have to take the belt sander to the door trim for final clearance, but I know it'll fit when I'm done.

 

Finished. Here are pics of the completed job (one side only) as well as the offending part(s) that are now sitting on the garage floor out of the way where they can continue to rust