I am having trouble seeing when the lights are on bright. The pattern seems so diffuse that it lacks proper intensity on a dark country road. Mentioned it to the dealer and they say that no one else has complained. I don't know if it is just my truck or they have a problem. Would appreciate any comments so that I may determine my course of action. BTW. What are some excellent replacement bulbs? Thanks. Popeye.<br><br>..........................<br>'03,3 500 HO, SRW,Patriot Blue,4x4, 6 speed. 4500 miles.

 

Simple fix have your lights aligned this is done with proper equipment...if you think its still not right there are headlights that are &quot;called off road&quot; with a 55/100 watt rating

 

I agree-----there is a lot of light diffused toward the side, that should be concentrated &quot;out front&quot; where it would do some good.<br><br>My opinion is that the lights are OK, but the high beams do not really add much in the way of better visibility in the distance.

 

Yes most bulbs are rated 55/65 watts....want power go to 55/100 watts which are illegal for on road use...I use 55/100 on my bikes and know if an on comming car gets into my brights he cant see much....but I can ;D

 

I complained in an earlier post about this and at that time I said that the lights on my Grande Cherokee were much better.<br>My lights on my Dodge have been aligned and they are still no good with the factory bulbs I have installed off road bulbs ( a blue light) and the are a lot better they do not appear to bother other drivers. I will be changing back soon as I am going to the US. for a month and I want to be legal down there.<br>Jim O

 

I have the same complaint with my brights. I read on a forum on www.pickuptruck.com about some replacement bulbs from sylvania I believe, that were supposed to help the problem. But they were $55 a piece! Ouch!

 

PIAA superwhite(?) carry the same wattage rating as the factory &quot;lamps&quot; (is the proper terminonogy &quot;bulbs&quot; for you guys) but put out candelpower (lumens) equal to a 100Watt lamp by using a different type of lamp gas and filament construction.<br><br>This being said, with the PIAA superwhite you do not need to worry about frying/melting any relays or wiring with the higher load 55/100W lamps and still maintain the factory 55/65W ratings while getting the extra candlepower.<br><br>Another option is to upgrade the lamps in your fog lights to the PIAA superwhite 100 Watt equivalent.<br><br>Candlepower (measured in &quot;lumens&quot is really the key, not Wattage. Two seemingly identical 50 watt lamps can have completely different lumen ratings.<br><br>Another thing to check out is the temperature of the lamp which is measured in Degrees Kelvin (dK). No so much that it gets that hot, what they are measuring is light color temperature.<br><br>The sun light is about 4200dk, incandescent lamps in your house are about 4500dK and fluorescent light is about 6200dK. MEtal halide is about 5000dK. This is all from memeory but I think you are geting the point. The yellower the light the lower the dK number the whiter and then bluer the light the greater the dK. <br><br>This being said, some of the &quot;blue light&quot; lamps is accomplished via a blue coating on the blub. That is not the way to achieve blue light, bascially it is a crutch in an attempt to fool the comsumer into thinking they have the high dollar great light producing MErcedes and BMW quality light fixtures.<br><br>I am sure some after market manufactuer will create a HID headlight kit for the 03 ram sooner or later.<br><br>So what you want is a High lumen, High dK lamp. The higher you get those numbers the whiter, cleaner, sharper the light. <br><br>(I learn this all in a lighting class in 1992...dont quote me on everything but I know the theory is correct).<br><br>

 

Thanks, great info.

 

Good lighting info...thanks

 

For us guys up here in deer country all the light diffused out to the sides is great. Really lights up the ditches and I like it. never really noticed a problem with the brights but I run with low beams and the driving lights on most of the time. But I can see where you guys are coming from, personaly the ditches are more important to me.

 

I picked up some PIAA Xtreme White bulbs for the headlights (part # 9007) and fog lamps (part # 9006) They'd be in the headlights by now but you gotta remove the whole headlamp unit to replace them then realign the headlights!!! Page 522 of the CD manual... &gt; Save that for the weekend I think.... Maybe I'll try some unprofessional comparison pics, but I dount they'll come out very well...

 

I'm going to install a Xenon lighting system in my truck, about 400.00 smackers, but voila! daylight @ night. Installation is only about a 1 hr. and you can see like a hawk, i'm sure the 4 wheelers will love me when i fry off their toupees .... ;D

 

I don't know if this would help any. I've never used one nor seen one in use but I surfed across it the other day and it caught my eye.<br><br>http://216.167.41.9/CoastalData/show...78&amp;CATID=1<br><br>If the address doesn't work its on Geno's under Dodgeelectricalbrite box<br>

 

I find the high beams to be somewhat inadequate for old, tired eyes, too. PIAA says that their bulbs will make a dramatic improvement. The part no's are: Head - 19617 and Fog - 19616.<br><br>Surely, you do NOT have to remove and re-align the headlights and/or fog lights simply to replace the bulbs! Please tell me that's not true

 

Just had the dealer put on Sylvania Silver Star replacement bulbs. Supposed to be only outdone by the HID systems. I'll &quot;see&quot; how they do tonight when I test drive the Ram and give my seat of the pants evaluation for those of you with the same problem. Part # 9007ST. approx. 45.00-50.00 with a ten dollar rebate from Sylvania until summer. Thanks for your replies. Popeye with a lighter wallet!!!!! :'(