Permanent inverter install
Permanent inverter install
In the interest of peace for the driver (me) I need to upgrade the inverter I'd put in the back seat for the kids. It can only run one PC at a time and they fight over it...
Right now I've got a 100W inverter wired to the switched cig lighter in front... It won't do two PC's and when the PC batt's get really low it won't do one PC. I'm thinking of jumping to something like 300W and hardwiring it.
Anyone done this? What did you use? Where did you install it? Any issues or things to consider? I'd primarily run it when the truck was running so I think the load is really on the alternator not the batteries per se?
Right now I've got a 100W inverter wired to the switched cig lighter in front... It won't do two PC's and when the PC batt's get really low it won't do one PC. I'm thinking of jumping to something like 300W and hardwiring it.
Anyone done this? What did you use? Where did you install it? Any issues or things to consider? I'd primarily run it when the truck was running so I think the load is really on the alternator not the batteries per se?
When it comes to the wiring probably the smartest thing to do would be use heavy gauge wire, you would have see what size the inverter calls for, and maybe step up a size or two to be safe. If you only plan on using when the truck is running then get a constant use solonoid and wire it to that and then to the battery and then wire the solonoid so it only comes on with the key. Might also want to geta circuit breaker for the rated amps that the inverter calls for to protect the line.
i would get a 500 w or larger use a starter relay like used on grid heater or on old fords on the fender most high end pc's are starting to use switching regulated power supplies with out getting to technical they will not work on modified sine wave inverters, be sure the inverter is a true sine wave inverter. the best thing to do is use google for true sine wave inverter and pick the one you like best
either wiring method is ok annabelle gave good advice on the wire size i also forgot the fuse, when i did my grid heater delete i kept the fuse link and that is what i used to connect to the positive side of the battery, divide 12 into the peak watts to size the fuse, the voltage rating on a fuse is irrelevant get a blade type fuse from home depo drill 1/4 inch holes in the blades and use the same type terminals to connect the fuse rap the fuse and connectors with friction tape and then with electrical tape use about a 6"pigtail on the fuse to keep it as close to the battery as you can
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I have a 1000 watt inverter that I installed behind the back seat. the receptacle is accessible by lifting the fold-flat-floor. I installed an on and off remote push button in the ashtray. The power works with the ignition on or off. Ran a 4ga wire (fused at the battery) from the engine all the way to the back. Works like a champ.
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get a blade type fuse from home depo drill 1/4 inch holes in the blades and use the same type terminals to connect the fuse rap the fuse and connectors with friction tape and then with electrical tape use about a 6"pigtail on the fuse to keep it as close to the battery as you can
Why on earth would you do that, when you can get maxi fuses and holders that are made for this application, or better yet auto reset circut breakers rated at the proper amperage. Both of which will have better connection points than drilling holes in the blades of a household fuse.
a 500 watt with a peak surge of 1200 watts requires a 100 amp fuse and that is not that easy to get where i live. i was just trying to recommend a good, safe and inexpensive way to get him what he wants the 4 gauge he can get at a welding supply place and the fuse link for free from the grid heater delete or a fuse from a surplus store or home depo also more and more devices will not work on modified sine wave inverters it will ruin a lot of them, if you are going to buy an inverter anyway buy a true sine wave one the first time. the price of them has dropped considerably the last year or two
the larger laptops take 140 watts and will not work on those type of adapters ,they have a switching regulated power supply in them that must have a sine wave voltage connected to it to work i am seeing more and more devices going to this because you can connect them up to any voltage between 90 and 240 volts and they will work. nice for 220 volts over sea's, i just seen a cell phone charger with one
I have a medium sized inverter on the tranny hump of the '98, and a larger 5K watt unit under the seat of the '05.
As posted above, don't scrimp on the wire gauge - I use OO wire (~ 1/2" of copper) on the '05, direct onto the + terminal... just have to be careful not to run it too long; after about 12 hours the system's pretty much drained.
It really adds to the heat load in the cab during summer when the AC is already struggling and there are several appliances plugged in.
As posted above, don't scrimp on the wire gauge - I use OO wire (~ 1/2" of copper) on the '05, direct onto the + terminal... just have to be careful not to run it too long; after about 12 hours the system's pretty much drained.
It really adds to the heat load in the cab during summer when the AC is already struggling and there are several appliances plugged in.


