Can anyone tell me what the recommended torque FT-LBS is for my '07 Ram 3500 lug nuts? I've read 145 and 135. Any help would be appreciated.

 

06 3500 drw is 145, 2500 srw is 140

 

On Aluminum wheels.....retorque after 1-200 miles. Mine always need a little tightening!

RJ

 

So I'm going with 135 as the manual states this. However, I am not mechanically inclined by any means, the lug nut is 9/16, the only socket that seems to fit is 8mm. I put the socket on the torque wrench and the lug doesn't move, the torque wrench doesn't 'click' - does this mean it's tight enough?

I was told to have the lugs re-tightened after my snow tires were put on but I live so far from any tire shop/dealership I am doing it myself.

 

???????
Dodge lug nuts have always been 15/16th's.
Don't know the newer duallys well but 3500's have always been the same diameter as 2500's, in the past.
Just longer bolts.

If your sure your tq wrench is set properly.... just keep leaning on it, with steady pressure, till it clicks!

Good Luck!

RJ.

 

8mm is close to 5/16 of an inch which is NOWHERE close to our lug nuts... and neither is 9/16" as stated above. You need stronger glasses and this is not bashing you just...

 

9/16s might be the size of the stud though..?

 

135 is close to the sweet spot. MY 05, 125 puts you right in there,,, then a few extra foot pounds puts em tight.

 

I just rotated my tires last night. Here's what I found:

- The correct socket size is 15/16"
- The correct torque is 135 ft/lbs for SRW, 145 ft/lbs for DRW.
- The wheel is NOT lug centric, it is hub centric
- The wheels do have a relief in the back of the hole for the tinnerman nut.

 

I like to torque mine down in stages. Such as first stage at 70 (lbft) then 90 or 100 (lbft) and finallly 135 (lbft).

Shawn

 

I know some will lose their breakfast when I say this, but in 21 years of driving and probably 25 yrs of putting tires on, I've never torqued a lug nut.
By hand, it's tight as you can get with a 4 way wrench or 1/2" breaker bar (except little cars, I don't crank the snot out of them).
With impact wrench, steel or alum wheels, for the last 15 years (except for roadside flats), run all teh nuts up on low setting (get's them barely snug and centered if necessary). Zap them all once on med setting (max 150 ftlbs ???) in a criss cross pattern. Zap them all again, x pattern until the impact stops or almost stops turning it. Never re-torqued the lugs. Only wheel I've ever lost was one that someone took most of the lugs off of. Never found out who vandalized my car.

 

Brake discs can be warped by not having the torque pretty even on all the nuts. Doesn't have to be exact, but should be pretty close.

Air powered impact wrenches are notoriously inaccurate from nut to nut. Electric ones do a little better. You should at least use a torque stick.

Whenever I have tire work done at a shop, the first thing I do is go back home and retorque all the lugs. Sometimes you find the torque to be significantly differant from lug to lug. They're often way over torqued, which can make a tire change on the side of the road somewhat difficult. And I'v even found some only hand tight.

 

I don't know if that's true or not.... but it certainly seems plausable.

My concern would be from excessive torque. Stretching the lug bolts and weaking them. Many reports have been posted here of tires flying off from broken bolts. Hard to pin down the reason but "over-torqued" seems as possible as "under-torqued".

RJ

 

http://www.stupidvideos.com/video/ju..._Wheels/#54036

evidence that over torquing wheels is a bad thing!

 

Good idea. I bought a torque wrench because when tires were rotated and done with air gun they loosened soon after. Heard clicking on turns and found lugs loose. Aluminum wheels loosen easier than steel when not torqued the right way.