Leveled, 35" Toyos, problem
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 203
Likes: 0
From: Dundee, Michigan
most of the problems I have delt with when install new new tires for cuttomers is radial tire pull, before you go through all the hassel of ball joints, new alignment, air pressure adjustments, swap the front tires for side to side, if the drift changes sides then it is a tire issue and nothing more, call the tire shop and see if they will get you a new one. or just rotate to the back.
Registered User
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 684
Likes: 1
From: Delta, PA
The only time the axle is "centered" on the coil spring 5-link like Dodge uses is when the truck is PARKED!
If you're driving it, then the axle is moving up and down, and it's never going to be centered because the track bar's arc moves the axle towards the driver's side in droop and passenger side in bump.
Adjustability is not the main advantage of a track bar-- it's rigidity. You don't want flex in the linkage.
The guys who are reporting problems with the bigger rubber need to clarify if this is on OEM wheels or aftermarket wheels. Aftermarket wheels will generally have less backspacing (i.e., offset in a negative direction, moving the wheels outward), and this increases the scrub radius substantially.
There's a reason Dodge (and most other manufacturers) went to the positive offset wheels that tuck in under the truck-- it's to minimize scrub radius.
Your best bet for success with larger tires is 1) stick with OEM wheels or EXACT spec replacements, and 2) go modest on the tire upsizing.
Even then, the massive weight of large E rated tires stress the many components of a coil spring front end-- BJs, Steering stab, stab bars, track bar, all bushings, etc.
If your truck isn't tracking straight, then you need to tell it who's boss. Trucks don't get to decide where they are going-- they are supposed to go where they are ordered. So you root out the weak sister in that front end and get it tight as a drum--- and you'll have the performance you want.
I'm personally dealing with a little wandering issue, and I believe that my DT Profac track bar bracket is loose at the frame-- AGAIN
. I now understand fully why Don Thuren has his bracket welded, not bolted, to the frame.
I also wouldn't put too much focus on BJs. I have had "bad" BJs for 2 years and 25K miles, and the truck drives smoothly and tracks straight. These BJs were condemned by an alignment shop that found some slight vertical play in them-- but nothing lateral.
Oh well, I'm due for a front end rebuild pretty soon. It's been 5 years already!
Sorry to ramble-- again.
If you're driving it, then the axle is moving up and down, and it's never going to be centered because the track bar's arc moves the axle towards the driver's side in droop and passenger side in bump.
Adjustability is not the main advantage of a track bar-- it's rigidity. You don't want flex in the linkage.
The guys who are reporting problems with the bigger rubber need to clarify if this is on OEM wheels or aftermarket wheels. Aftermarket wheels will generally have less backspacing (i.e., offset in a negative direction, moving the wheels outward), and this increases the scrub radius substantially.
There's a reason Dodge (and most other manufacturers) went to the positive offset wheels that tuck in under the truck-- it's to minimize scrub radius.
Your best bet for success with larger tires is 1) stick with OEM wheels or EXACT spec replacements, and 2) go modest on the tire upsizing.
Even then, the massive weight of large E rated tires stress the many components of a coil spring front end-- BJs, Steering stab, stab bars, track bar, all bushings, etc.
If your truck isn't tracking straight, then you need to tell it who's boss. Trucks don't get to decide where they are going-- they are supposed to go where they are ordered. So you root out the weak sister in that front end and get it tight as a drum--- and you'll have the performance you want.
I'm personally dealing with a little wandering issue, and I believe that my DT Profac track bar bracket is loose at the frame-- AGAIN
. I now understand fully why Don Thuren has his bracket welded, not bolted, to the frame.I also wouldn't put too much focus on BJs. I have had "bad" BJs for 2 years and 25K miles, and the truck drives smoothly and tracks straight. These BJs were condemned by an alignment shop that found some slight vertical play in them-- but nothing lateral.
Oh well, I'm due for a front end rebuild pretty soon. It's been 5 years already!
Sorry to ramble-- again.
Sorry i had to go there...
I noticed the pull to the right on my truck much more after the larger tires and not much at all with the stockers - but i know it is the crown in the road because it pulls left if i drive like I'm in Europe... and i have an aftermarket dual steering stabilizer, not that i believe it would make a difference. I agree simply that larger and/or more aggressive tires exagerate the crown in the road to a much more noticable level.
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 8,234
Likes: 1
From: Texas/Oklahoma Border
Just live with it...if you like the look of the 35" Toyos.
Centering the frame on the front axle will help.... either adjustable Track Bar or Off Set Bushings. I did the latter..from Lazarsmith (XLR8R).
http://www.lazarsmith.com/SSSSS.html
Centering the frame on the front axle will help.... either adjustable Track Bar or Off Set Bushings. I did the latter..from Lazarsmith (XLR8R).
http://www.lazarsmith.com/SSSSS.html
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