Leveled, 35" Toyos, problem
#31
"California Style"
its not the tires or the track bar
when leveled and bigger tires the stock steering stabilizer was not made to handle it you need to upgrade to a after market steering stabilize that has the correct preasure call Lorenz or Kore or any of them and they will all say the same thing
when leveled and bigger tires the stock steering stabilizer was not made to handle it you need to upgrade to a after market steering stabilize that has the correct preasure call Lorenz or Kore or any of them and they will all say the same thing
Poor guy has been suggested to just about replace his whole front end here. Do the FREE stuff first.
#32
I'm having the same problem with my toyo a/t's. It pulls to the right. I was just going to ask this same question. Seems like most people go with trackbar or trackbar bushings, and/or adjustable balljoints.
With the exception of the one guy who said to find a better qualified alignment shop.
Is that about right?
With the exception of the one guy who said to find a better qualified alignment shop.
Is that about right?
#33
I've had experiences with new tires that would track the crown in the road surface a fair amount. Since we drive on the right side of the road in this country, the road surface is generally inclined to the right. Usually, this goes away after the tires wear in a bit. A hundred miles or so should do the trick. If you've already put that much on the tires, the issue might be something else.
I'm not sure what the alignment spec is on your particular truck, but a bit more or less caster may also help.
I'm not sure what the alignment spec is on your particular truck, but a bit more or less caster may also help.
#34
Wow. This is crazy. I've been following this 'drifting right' issue on all the big dodge forums, and I've finally got to chime in. I used to be heavily involved in all things Corvette. This issue started with them almost 20 years ago. It just happened to pop up when Chevy went to a 275 wide tire, on all four wheels. So, starting in '92, they downsized the front wheel and tire, to make it skinnier. The problems all but went away. My '95 had the smaller front wheels on it, and I had no road crown drifting issues until I put the 275's and wider wheels back on all 4 corners. I wanted handling, so I got bigger tires for the footprint. Well **** if it didn't INSTANTLY start pulling right (or left if there were deep grooves and I was driving down the left crown of the grooves). It is a tire width / flexibility issue. The softer the tire, and the wider, the more crown affects the vehicle. We beat this issue to death over 15 years ago in the Vette world. With wider softer tires, you are going to compound the road crown affect. It's just the way it is. We want nice soft easy steering, and large tires. Road crown.
#35
Well, just to update. I went to the dealership today and had them check out my entire front end including ball joints and they said everything is fine. I went back to the offroad shop, they did another alignment. They said there is nothing else they can adjust on. So I don't know, they said this would not make my tires wear bad or anything because it is in alignment and the toe and everything is in good shape. So who knows, I mean it's really not that big of a deal, its not like I have to fight it going down the road, it's just if I let go of the wheel after a couple of seconds it starts fading off to the right. I am pretty sure it's not the road crown as well, but I could be wrong. Who the hell knows. I'll probably get a thuren track bar before too long. And don't get me wrong, the truck looks awesome and I love the tires.
#36
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#37
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There was a thread some time ago about a spacing shim behind wheel to change the scrub radius(?) It's purpose was take away a pull.
The offset ball joints would be one per side. Perhaps just one side would need . .4 camber variation may mot be enough to cause problem(?????)
The offset ball joints would be one per side. Perhaps just one side would need . .4 camber variation may mot be enough to cause problem(?????)
#38
if you get a upgraded steering stabilizer with the right preasure it will go away instantley quit with all the ball joint stuff thats not what this gentleman needs the bigger tire and leveling kit is alittle more than the stock one can take not a big deal
#39
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Wow. This is crazy. I've been following this 'drifting right' issue on all the big dodge forums, and I've finally got to chime in. I used to be heavily involved in all things Corvette. This issue started with them almost 20 years ago. It just happened to pop up when Chevy went to a 275 wide tire, on all four wheels. So, starting in '92, they downsized the front wheel and tire, to make it skinnier. The problems all but went away. My '95 had the smaller front wheels on it, and I had no road crown drifting issues until I put the 275's and wider wheels back on all 4 corners. I wanted handling, so I got bigger tires for the footprint. Well **** if it didn't INSTANTLY start pulling right (or left if there were deep grooves and I was driving down the left crown of the grooves). It is a tire width / flexibility issue. The softer the tire, and the wider, the more crown affects the vehicle. We beat this issue to death over 15 years ago in the Vette world. With wider softer tires, you are going to compound the road crown affect. It's just the way it is. We want nice soft easy steering, and large tires. Road crown.
Also, normally the road crown is always sloping to the right. Try driving on pavement that's sloped the opposite direction, and see if the truck pulls to the drivers side instead. If it does (Im guessing it will), you dont have a problem with alignment or ball joints - it's strickly a result of the bigger tires, as was stated in the post above.
My truck pulls slightly in the direction that the pavement slopes/drains - higher tire pressure helped me, but other than that, I've learned to live with it if I want to keep the bigger tires.
#40
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Well, just to update. I went to the dealership today and had them check out my entire front end including ball joints and they said everything is fine. I went back to the offroad shop, they did another alignment. They said there is nothing else they can adjust on. So I don't know, they said this would not make my tires wear bad or anything because it is in alignment and the toe and everything is in good shape. So who knows, I mean it's really not that big of a deal, its not like I have to fight it going down the road, it's just if I let go of the wheel after a couple of seconds it starts fading off to the right. I am pretty sure it's not the road crown as well, but I could be wrong. Who the hell knows. I'll probably get a thuren track bar before too long. And don't get me wrong, the truck looks awesome and I love the tires.
#41
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This is total BS.. I am running 35's on my truck with the stock steering stabalizer, and its got NO issues. Every vehicle I own doesn't even have a steering stablizer. Steering stabalizers do a LOT less than people think.
Scott
Scott
#42
while people may be making too much of the steering stabilizer deal, just because you aren't seeing an issue running 35's with the level kit, doesn't change the fact that many are. it may be nothing more than an alignment issue, tire psi, or just breaking in and getting used to the new tires, but for some it is noticeable enough that they are looking for possible solutions.
#43
Back in the good ole DRC days, when I went with the Kore Chase and toyo 35's, I was told by Mr. Boardman that my truck may want to follow the crown of the road and drift to the right. It did for a short while, but was hardly noticeable after around 500 miles. As to the steering stabilizer; the high pressure, single nitrous charged shock on the right side fixes this. The pressure can be adjusted down if there is a push to the left. I run my toyos at 45 psi. It handles well, and the lower pressure helps dampen the rough stuff and keeps my truck off the bump stops. I dont do whoops at 60+ though. I try real hard to keep all 4 tires on the ground. BTW I am still running the stock stabilizer, but will eventually go after-market.
#44
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I have the exact same problem except with 295's.....i had the Ball joints replaced with OEM joints (warranty) and did not fix it. I tried every position with the tires with it allways pulling to the right. I put my 285 Goodyear MTRs back on and it was straight. I put the 265 Mich's back on and it was straight.
Its only the Toyo's. I had Less Schwab remount a diff set and same thing. Sage CArli told me a stabalizer might "bandAid" the problem but off set balljoint was the only solution. I have yet to do it though. Sage told me hes seena ton of Toyo MT's pull to the right. The Les Schwab guy said they too have seen pulls with the Toyo Mt's AFTER he sold them to me.
I did allignments, different pressues, and now have 8K on them pulling to the right every mile.
Its only the Toyo's. I had Less Schwab remount a diff set and same thing. Sage CArli told me a stabalizer might "bandAid" the problem but off set balljoint was the only solution. I have yet to do it though. Sage told me hes seena ton of Toyo MT's pull to the right. The Les Schwab guy said they too have seen pulls with the Toyo Mt's AFTER he sold them to me.
I did allignments, different pressues, and now have 8K on them pulling to the right every mile.