Hey guys,

About two weeks after installing the muffler delete on my truck, I started to get the annoying 'DING' and the 'lamp out' light on my dash.

Apparently my passenger rear blinker was beginning to get loose or faulty. So, I changed the bulb, and it worked for about 3 days. Then it started happening again. So, I turned on the blinker...and it would only work if I held the bulb in there with constant pressure. So, I figured the connectors inside of the socket just loosened up. I took a screwdriver and 'closed' the contacts a bit to make a tighter fit. Now, the bulb wont work at all.

Anyone have any ideas, or a fix to a similar problem?

I've changed the bulb several times...no luck.

The only problem I've had is the passenger rear blinker. I assume this is caused by the extra noise vibration from the new exhaust, but that could just be coincidence.

Someone told me I may have to replace the entire 'light bar', the gray box that has all of the circuitry in it. Does anyone have this part number? I hear it is VERY expensive, but could be wrong.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Shawn

 

The board as they call it I believe is only around 30-35 bucks...Have you tried sanding the contacts on the board where the lamp terminals touch? I switched over to a glass base bulb because the plastic base was melting and the glass base had larger terminals for greater contact area, it wasn't the filament failing. The higher amp draw due to burned contacts caused the plastic to overheat and melt giving me intermittent contact.

 

I just replaced the drivers side because it would melt the contacts on the bulb and make my brake light go out. I paid $21 w/ tax from the local dealer. I tried to get it from Autozone, Napa, and Checker(Shucks or Kragen depending on where you live) and they don't stock them.

 

Make sure you switch to a glass base bulb, the plastic will melt again eventually...I was going through bulbs every 4-6 months until I switched to the glass base bulbs, haven't had to replace them since, 3yrs.

 

who makes them, all I have seen are the plastics at the parts store.

 

I'll try to remember to check tonight when I get home, I think I have the package on my car parts shelf.

 

There is no melting on the plastic base, and I can't see any 'arc' spots from where the metal welded to the terminal.

Is there any visual damage on your socket due to these faulty bulbs? I can't see anything wrong with mine...

Thanks
Shawn

 

Mine and everyone I knew with the same boards had burn spots on the board where the lamp terminals touch, and the base was melted and covering the tracks on the lamp. You have to look closely for the melting evidence it's not jump out at you melted, very subtle.

 

I will post pictures of mine later today, it was very visible on the bulb and even after bending the socket up to get more contact space, you could see the burn marks on the contacts.

 

I don't have it anymore, but I was able to find it at pretty much any auto parts store.

 

I pulled the lense off again earlier. I found that if I pushed the socket (not the bulb) to one side of the power 'bar', I was able to get contace to the light and it would work. As soon as I let it go, it would lose contact again.

Can you replace just the socket, or do you have to replace the complete power bar?

Thanks in advance.

Shawn

 

you have to replace the entire board, and your dealer should have it in stock. Here is what it was doing to my bulbs.

 

Mine wasn't that extreme, neither were the ones I have seen.

 

that bulb is less than 3 months old too.

 

Picked up the power strip today and installed it - all is well.

I think it would've been covered under my extended warranty, but the $50 deductible wasn't worth it.

Thanks for the help guys.

SQ