3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years Talk about the 2003 and up Dodge Ram here. PLEASE, NO ENGINE OR DRIVETRAIN DISCUSSION!.

HVAC Sucks!!!

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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 10:09 AM
  #16  
MikeyB's Avatar
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From: Tomball, Texas
Mine can get pretty cold. All I did was install a coolant shutoff valve to the heater core and added a little more freon so the pressure is towards the high side of the acceptable range.

MikeyB
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 10:39 AM
  #17  
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From: Austin, Tx
yeah i read thru the 26+ pages of that thread yesterday and installed a valve on mine...should be able to see if it worked today (supposed to be 104 again)...
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 10:42 AM
  #18  
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From: Wichita Falls, TX
Originally Posted by MikeyB
Mine can get pretty cold. All I did was install a coolant shutoff valve to the heater core and added a little more freon so the pressure is towards the high side of the acceptable range.

MikeyB
What is the acceptable range for the system?

I have a theory I came across the other day while removing the intake baffle. If you look at the position of the radiator, CAC, and condenser, you'll notice that there is a fairly large gap between the radiator and CAC but very little between the CAC and condenser. This causes a LOT of air to bypass around the CAC and the condenser to go through the radiator.

If you were to build some sort of wall around that gap you would create sort of a "wind tunnel" to force any air that goes through the radiator to go through the CAC first, which would also draw more air through the condenser. Make scene? It should work the same way as adding a pusher fan to the condenser, maybe even better. Any thoughts?
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Old Jul 16, 2009 | 11:35 AM
  #19  
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From: Tomball, Texas
The specs for the A/C.



MikeyB
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Old Jul 23, 2009 | 09:12 PM
  #20  
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From: Indpls, IN
Thanks guys for all the tips.
I am going to check the ignition switch.

I would like to clarify some things.

When I said it was staying on I was refering to the snowflake light when you switch it off using the blower control ****.

Also I did have a code, I do not remember the number, it was AC circuit 2 open. When I looked it up it refered to the compressor clutch. According to Alldata it could be one of 3 things, the clutch, the wiring, or the TIPM.
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Old Jul 24, 2009 | 01:26 AM
  #21  
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From: Lake of the Ozarks, Mo.
I too added extra freon to just the top of the acceptable limits, I think we went to 400 on the hi-side. Around here we don't usually see temps above 110... So I figured this was a safe bet... Very rarely you can hear the system vent for a split second when the compressor first kicks on though, so maybe I went a little high...

My AC Blows super cold as long as you're moving at freeway speeds, 55+...

Below that I think the system lacks enough air over the condensor to work correctly... A pusher fan is my next upgrade.
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Old Aug 9, 2009 | 03:15 PM
  #22  
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From: Illinois
Originally Posted by steelblitzkrieg
206K on the factory A/C? Holy expletive!

Sorry but none of my Dodge trucks compressors made it passed 50K. They all got noisy and ended up seizing on me, fortunately never stranded, I started keeping a non-a/c belt with me just in case after the first one. The first one I was a block from a Autozone.
My AC quit yesterday in OK. It was 98 degrees. Sucks to have no ac and will not be able to get fixed until home on Tuesday.

Not sure what is wrong except that it just started blowing hot air and the compressor is not working.

Thought about adding or checking freon, but not sure it would do any good.

The miles my 2007 5.9 was about 292,700 when it died.

I have no idea where to start except to maybe have it changed.
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