3rd Generation Ram - Non Drivetrain - All Years Talk about the 2003 and up Dodge Ram here. PLEASE, NO ENGINE OR DRIVETRAIN DISCUSSION!.

HVAC removed and understood!

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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 02:54 AM
  #31  
Jeff in TD's Avatar
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From: Oregon
Originally Posted by dodgeramer
great write up very informational have one question .... what does the heater core look like is it the aluminum looking part with fins on it ?
The AC evaporator is an aluminum finned part mounted vertically, and the heater core is the horizontal finned aluminum part.

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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 01:21 PM
  #32  
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From: La Verne, Ca
looks like when they build these trucks it starts as an HVAC unit going down the assembly line, then they just start attaching parts.
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 04:13 PM
  #33  
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thanks for the time you took to tell me what it looks like can t believe you have to take the whole dash out to get to it
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Old Sep 12, 2009 | 07:28 PM
  #34  
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From: AL
Great job !! I tackled this once on a 95 Ram I owned..This looks like it would take longer than my old 95. If I remember correctly it took me around 12 hrs. It's not something I would want to do every day.. It is labor intensive but, It will save some $$$... Again , Great job !
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Old Oct 4, 2009 | 08:32 PM
  #35  
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From: Canada
cool, thanks
i just thought about this issue some more, and it all started when i had my stereo installed. i wonder if there is something in the way that forces the vents on the hvac box to not move.
if i put the selector switch to windshield only, it doesn't move there, every once n a while it will re direct the air to the floor only, but then it will return back to vents. i will need to fix this as winter is coming and when the hot air comes out the vents, it kills my eyes.they dry fast.so i am wondering if i am on the right track.
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Old Oct 5, 2009 | 11:52 AM
  #36  
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From: Rice Lake, WI
wat causes this to break...is there anything i can do to avoid this problem?
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 12:00 PM
  #37  
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heater door

I would bet it is mode door#1 I replace it on my truck i got mine at heater treater two hour job.
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Old Dec 8, 2009 | 03:17 PM
  #38  
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From: Ohio
WOW Jeff. Thanks so much for those pictures. Without them I wouldn't know how or where to start to come up with the quick fix I did.

After not having heat go to the floor setting, I saw in the picture the mode door 1 location is easily gotten to with a section of rifle cleaning rod. I simply looked in the floor vent with a flash light to see the flapper door about 12" away and simply put the fan on the 1st or 2nd setting and pushed on the flapper door tab to open it up and wala, floor heat blowing!! easy temp fix for the winter until I get in to do the repairs.. goodbye cold feet!

ps. driver and pass door floor vents are connected together (looks seperate in picture). Open one and the others open with it.
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Old Dec 14, 2009 | 11:27 PM
  #39  
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I Just Love My Dodge.....

......because it certainly keeps my repair skills ALWAYS proficient and sharp!

My 03 is stuck on vent --- of all the folks who have made these repairs with more "robust" parts; how have your repairs stood up to the test of time? I REALLY only want to do this once, as my time will be devoted towards a different repair further into the future. If only the rest of the truck was made like the Cummins!
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 08:19 AM
  #40  
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heater door

The door I got from heatertreater,net is made from steel. the instructions were easy to follow
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 03:29 PM
  #41  
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From: Nixa, Missouri
I did mine with epoxy and it broke again. Tore it all down and put new doors and guess what it broke again. Not sure how everyone else did but the door are plastic and the motors have alot of tourqe and don't shut of when they are supposed to. It a shame to saybut I will be doing it this time with some lawn mower choke cables and will just rip out the blender between the floor and defrost.
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 10:35 PM
  #42  
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FMB
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From: Old Norte Mexico
Originally Posted by dieselfreak21
I did mine with epoxy and it broke again. Tore it all down and put new doors and guess what it broke again.
Did you take it in and let them program the stops for the motor after you put in the new door? If not, I'm not surprised it broke again. (I resemble that remark. . . )
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Old Dec 15, 2009 | 10:39 PM
  #43  
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I would hate to tear the dash out TWICE dieselfreak21. I've read about the heatertreater doors ($) - however that would be the LAST fix/repair on these grossly-underengineered plastic doors.

I'm looking to jurry-rig my doors so I get some constant-air to the defrost; until I can make it to spring and do a full rip-out/inspection/repair.

I appreciate your feedback!
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Old Dec 16, 2009 | 10:14 AM
  #44  
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From: Nixa, Missouri
Originally Posted by FMB
Did you take it in and let them program the stops for the motor after you put in the new door? If not, I'm not surprised it broke again. (I resemble that remark. . . )
That is news to me. There is pressure switches that are supposed to make them stop on mine. They worked fine for a few weeks before they broke. I watched them all operate and stop. I guess that would require a dealer to do this. Won't give them another dime on this stuff. This one thing has probably turned me off of mopar for ever. I will still keep my trucks as the cummins is what i bought and their drive lines are good. The rest of the truck is junk. When this body give out I will start looking for a ford body to put on it. sorry to rant.
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Old Jan 9, 2010 | 12:15 AM
  #45  
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Very nice!!
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