Only the high position on the hvac fan control **** works, so its either off or on full blast. talk about annoying when you need constant defrost during a 7hr drive in a blizzard and the fan has to be on afterburner mode the entire time...

so do you think the problem is in the ****/switch electrical or is it something to do w/ the fan motor?

 

more than likely it is the resistor on top of the fan box

 

 

im flattered

 

You're welcome........

 

Its a bad igintion swith. Easy to fix. A couple of torx bit screws on colum and it comes apart. Thats Dodges fail safe goes on high only. There is a TSB out on it to rewire after you replace the igintion switch. TSB not required though. Its not the resistor like others have said.

 

thanks all. well i like easy fixes but i still don't understand how the ignition switch would make the fan only work on high....what is it a fail safe for? sounds easy enough though so worth a try. wouldn't you need to pull the dash for the resistor?

 

I have a 2nd gen so this may not apply to you.

The resistor is very easy to check on an 01 anyway two screws underneath the blower box easy access. It will be obvious if it is burnt or cracked. Mine has gone through 3 over the years. Two of them the solder had melted on the contacts as well as cracked into pieces, third one just the solder melted.

Am unaware of the iginition switch thing but again I have a 2nd gen.

 

Blower resistor. Ignition switch has nothing to do with blower speeds.

Good luck!

 

No you dont have to pull the dash to do the resistor. At most you have to remove the glove box. Its down on the passenger side with a cover over it. Easy to remove.

You are partly right csxt665. Ignition switch has nothing to do with "blower speeds" But it is where the on/off part of the system starts when key turns. If the ignition switch fails. Which this members now has. Its defualts to high only and goes to defrost for safety. So you can still see out window.

Now since you are finding this so hard to beliieve and trust me I WAS part of your club. I bought a resistor and changed it out in 10 mins. So $50 later and a extra resistor becuase you cant return electicral parts. when back down to Weber Dodge and talked to my buddy Sam. Who is head tech. he took out the book and showed me the wiring.


The ignition key must be in the key cylinder for cylinder removal. The key cylinder must be removed first before removing ignition switch.

Remove the negative (ground) cable from the battery.
Disable the airbag, (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/RESTRAINTS/DRIVER AIRBAG - REMOVAL).
Remove the lower and upper shrouds.
Remove key cylinder. (Refer to 19 - STEERING/COLUMN/LOCK CYLINDER HOUSING - REMOVAL).
Disconnect the lower clockspring connectors.
Remove the wire retainer from the tilt lever bracket.
Remove the tilt lever mounting screws to gain access to the ignition switch mounting screws.(IGNITION SWITCH WITH TILT)
For columns without tilt remove the bracket to gain access to the ignition switch mounting screws. (IGNITION SWITCH WITHOUT TILT)
Disconnect the electrical connector at rear of ignition switch (IGNITION SWITCH).
Remove ignition switch mounting screw.
Using a small screwdriver, push on locking tab and remove switch from steering column

 

It's normal...


OMG I'm killing myself!!!

 

Me too...

 

but what we don't know is will it work in other positions (direction of air not fan speed). he mentioned needing defrost during a blizzard and hating it cause fan was on afterburner

 

so far so good on the rest of the system blend door works (if thats the one that blends hot and cold) and i can switch from defrost to floor to dash ect. just the fan ***** gone crazy. so concensus is ignition switch is probably bad if its only working on high, and if that doesn't fix it $50 for the resistor than can be changed out in 10min behind glove box? my next drive north would be a burning hell if it wasn't for you guys thanks!

 

just re-read this part so if i can still switch the defrost to floor vents would that rule out the ignition switch?