My AC just all of a sudden stopped blowing cold. It still blows but just vent temperature air. I have verified that the clutch on the compressor is not engaging at all and the button in the cab lights up like usual. I tried to multimeter the plug going to the compressor but one of the leads is showing hot at all times??? Id like to hot wire the compressor or somehow else verify that the clutch and solenoid are my problem before buying the kit and and replacing them.

I checked both fuses in the fuse box and they are not blown.

I also can not figure out how to jump the pressure switch (three wire plug) located right near the compressor.

With all the stuff I am reading, majority of the time the solenoid and clutch are the culprit but I just want to make sure prior to purchasing and repalcing them.

 

If you have both power and ground then clutch needs to be replaced. Check resistance of clutch coil and on a 5.9L/6.7L Diesel Engines should be 3.0 - 4.0 ohms max and should draw 3.1 - 4.0 amps @ 12V ± 0.5V @ 21° C (70° F)


The A/C clutch can be serviced in the vehicle. The refrigerant system can remain fully-charged during compressor clutch, pulley and bearing assembly, or coil replacement.


Examine the friction surfaces of the pulley and the clutch plate (2) for wear. The pulley and clutch plate should be replaced if there is excessive wear or scoring.

If the friction surfaces are oily, inspect the shaft and nose area of the A/C compressor (1) for refrigerant oil. If refrigerant oil is found, the compressor shaft seal is leaking and the A/C compressor must be replaced.

Check the pulley bearing for roughness or excessive leakage of grease. Replace the pulley and bearing assembly, if required.
Note: Chrysler does not service a/c clutch, complete compressor replacement only.
Aftermarket clutch are available but if the compressor has seized internally, replace complete unit.

Good Luck

 

Test showed me 0 ohms so I ordred a compressor clutch kit from ebay for $84.75. Should have it blasting cold air middle of next week.

 

Completed the repair then had my pressures checked. If I can get another 6 years before having to replace another clutch and solenoid, I am ok with that. The repair was pretty straight forward. I had difficulty prying off the pulley and coil but it just took persistance.

Lessons learned......
Use a small ball pean hammer to tap the coil and pulley back on as it went on like a charm after switching from a rubber hammer. The pulley and solenoid are tough enough that the metal does not disform.

I still dont know how one would get solenoid wire keeper that is mounted to the compressor off without destroying it. It took me a long time and I was simply trying to cut it apart to get it off. I finally got it off and out then decided I was not putting the new one back in there and just zip tied it for easy future removal.

The solenoid will not work unless the truck is running! I tried testing the new one with just the key on and it had me beleiving that the solonoid was not the problem for a while.