I'm in the middle of replacing the shocks on my 2006 2500 4x4. Everything looks straightforward, except the bottom bolts on the front.

I can't see a way to get to the nut to hold and retain it. The bolt head (21mm?) has an access hole through the front of the bracket, but the nut... :-<<

The top of the front is easy to access by pulling the inner fenders. It might require pulling the battery mounts to get the shocks out - we will see.

So - any tips or tricks on the front bottom nut?

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide.
Dale

 

I used a magnet with a retractable handle, Its a pain in the *** with the coils on. Maybe there is an easier method.

 

I just did this a couple of days ago on my '03.

The nut on the bottom front does not move/come out. Just use a ratchet/impact for the bolt - access from the front.

You don't have to pull the fender liners in front either.

Passenger side you can pull the tower and shock together from the top.

Driver's side you have to pull the battery. Then separate the tower from the shock. Pull the tower, then the shock.

 

On my 07 we just pulled the shock towers off, its like 3 little nuts that get them off. The shocks came right out if you unplugged a yellow wire than ran across the top there on the drivers side.... It was in the way on mine but it unplugged quickly and only conrtols the starter motor.


The bottom nut doesn't have to be held the bolt comes right out without holding the nut.


Put the new shocks in and get the bottom bolt started, then put the shock towers back on, then tighten down the top side and torque down bottom side... That's it you're done in less than an hour.

 

My bottom nuts stayed in place when I did mine, it's on a long ear kinda thing so it won't turn when to torque on the bolt.

Remove the shock towers to get them out, no need to remove the battery or air cleaner or anything else on my 06. Getting the top nut off is a pain, ya gotta hold the shock shaft from turning.

 

I never would have guessed that the lower nut was captive, but it makes great sense, given its location. I'll try a 21mm socket from the front side.

If I'm lucky it will all be done by lunch. I don't mind taking the inner fenders out, it makes access to the sides much easier and there are only 7 or 8 small bolts holding the inner fenders which come out in less than 5 minutes.

Again, thanks for all of the help. I hope I don't need the magnet mentioned above.

Dale

 

Thanks to the folks who responded, I have a new set of Bilstein HD (not 5100) series shocks on the truck. Total install time was around 4 hours, even accounting for using the wrong top bushings for one side.

Removing the inner fenders made it easier for me, but it looked like one could do everything from the top. The top nuts on the rear are captive, but need to be held with a 21mm wrench to avoid denting the bed. The bottom nuts on the front are also captive as reported above.

I am a little disappointed in the results. The stock shocks were worn at 37K and very easy to compress by hand. However, the Bilsteins seem to have only slightly improved the ride and handling, at least so far. I have a few places I will try to see if the side pitching is still present when going over a bump at an angle.

Dale

 

Yeah, I left the inner fenders alone in the front, between the top and the side I was ablwee to easily get the towers off.
For me the biggesty pain was the top bolts on the back, it woulda been easier if they put the bolts in from the inside, that's how I put them back in so it'll be easier next time.

 

Just recieved new Bilsteins with no instructions?
Need advice regarding the bushings at the top of the front shocks. Which bushing is the bottom and which is the top? They are quite different shapes. Thanks Gents.

 

Four hours to install shocks? I took 30 minutes and it was my first time. Don't you have impacts? I didn't take out the battery, just take the driver's side tower off the shock first.

 

My truck mechanic friend did my level kit and shocks and didn't remove anything but top shock mount.

 

And the trackbar and probably disconnect the sway bar too.

 

For the level kit yes but no battery or fender liner for shocks to come out. If he did he would have complained to me.

 

What ft lbs to torque the upper and lower fasteners to on a 2004 4x2 front shocks?
One large nut on top and 2 smaller on bottom.

The service manual says 100/55 but appears to be referring to a link/coil setup.

 

Not sure bottom, top you tighten until rubber bushings expand to size of metal washer.