Fifth Wheel Hitch??
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Registered User
Joined: Jun 2005
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From: Florida Panhandle
Fifth Wheel Hitch??
I have a 04 Dodge ram 2500 Quad cab short bed.
I need to know what the best Fifth Wheel Hitch would be?
I understand you cant drill into frame or it will void the warranty on the truck.
I also want it to be a slider.
and I want it to pivot 4 ways...side to side ,front to back
Thanks
I need to know what the best Fifth Wheel Hitch would be?
I understand you cant drill into frame or it will void the warranty on the truck.
I also want it to be a slider.
and I want it to pivot 4 ways...side to side ,front to back
Thanks
Registered User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 567
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From: Campbell River. BC
You're allowed to drill as long as you follow some rules.
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm
I have a Reese Signature 15k, it's nothing fancy but it pivots on both axis so hook up is easy. Depending on what fiver you end up with you may need a slider, with the extended pinbox on mine I didn't.
http://www.dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/13-001-03.htm
I have a Reese Signature 15k, it's nothing fancy but it pivots on both axis so hook up is easy. Depending on what fiver you end up with you may need a slider, with the extended pinbox on mine I didn't.
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Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 246
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HO600
The best hitch is like asking which car is the best. If your going to buy a 5er and buy from a dealer they will have hitches for your truck as part of the deal you make on your 5er. Make your deal with a dealer and have him install/prep the hitch.
If your going to get a manual operating type slider any of brand hitches will work just fine. There is a good auto operating hitch,Superglide, that is kind of pricey that lots of folks like.
My Reese 16 k hitch manual slider is a four way pivot that the hitch brakets were welded 52000 miles ago in January of '03. I pull a 11200 lb 5er. My neighbor has a '03 one ton Dodge with welded in hitch brkts for a GN over 180000 miles ago that pulls in excess of 26000 lbs[hotshoter/transporter]. They also make clamp on hitch brkts, to the frame, if you don't want to weld/drill.
Some hitch manufactors have mounting systems that leave a clean bed when you remove the hitch. Lots to pick and choose from. No brand is superior to the others............JIM
The best hitch is like asking which car is the best. If your going to buy a 5er and buy from a dealer they will have hitches for your truck as part of the deal you make on your 5er. Make your deal with a dealer and have him install/prep the hitch.
If your going to get a manual operating type slider any of brand hitches will work just fine. There is a good auto operating hitch,Superglide, that is kind of pricey that lots of folks like.
My Reese 16 k hitch manual slider is a four way pivot that the hitch brakets were welded 52000 miles ago in January of '03. I pull a 11200 lb 5er. My neighbor has a '03 one ton Dodge with welded in hitch brkts for a GN over 180000 miles ago that pulls in excess of 26000 lbs[hotshoter/transporter]. They also make clamp on hitch brkts, to the frame, if you don't want to weld/drill.
Some hitch manufactors have mounting systems that leave a clean bed when you remove the hitch. Lots to pick and choose from. No brand is superior to the others............JIM
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 137
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From: HOUSTON
CONSIDER ONE WITH A BUILT IN "DROP SAFE" FEATURE. MY REESE DOES NOT.
MY NEXT HITCH WILL. SHOP CAREFULY. NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH
MY REESE BUT THERE ARE MORE ADVANCED SET UPS OUT THERE.
>>>>>BE DANG SURE YOU CAN SLIDE THE HITCH EITHER WAY WITH
FULL TRAILER WEIGHT ON HITCH. >>>BE SURE YOU CAN THROW THE
SLIDE RELEASE LEVER LOADED, ON HILLS ETC. MY REESE WILL.
READ THE DIRECTIONS
BEFORE YOU BUY THE HITCH,,YOU MAY BE SHOCKED AT WHAT THEY ADVISE.
I REPEAT..READ DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU BUY !!!
MY NEXT HITCH WILL. SHOP CAREFULY. NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS WITH
MY REESE BUT THERE ARE MORE ADVANCED SET UPS OUT THERE.
>>>>>BE DANG SURE YOU CAN SLIDE THE HITCH EITHER WAY WITH
FULL TRAILER WEIGHT ON HITCH. >>>BE SURE YOU CAN THROW THE
SLIDE RELEASE LEVER LOADED, ON HILLS ETC. MY REESE WILL.
READ THE DIRECTIONS
BEFORE YOU BUY THE HITCH,,YOU MAY BE SHOCKED AT WHAT THEY ADVISE.
I REPEAT..READ DIRECTIONS BEFORE YOU BUY !!!
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Registered User
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 156
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From: Irvine
With a short bed truck the only way to go is the Pullrite. You did say the best
There are other very good hitches but they are all manual sliders, and there are some pin box configurations that will not require a slider at all, even with the short bed.
I went with the Pullrite, and probably will still use it when I get a long bed truck. It is a very well designed hitch and it tows great.
There are other very good hitches but they are all manual sliders, and there are some pin box configurations that will not require a slider at all, even with the short bed.
I went with the Pullrite, and probably will still use it when I get a long bed truck. It is a very well designed hitch and it tows great.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,915
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From: Beaverton, Oregon
Pullrite has one of the best setups I've seen. The latch actually completely surrounds the pin in all of their models.
If I go to long bed truck I will most definately get a Pullrite hitch just because of that
You can also take it out of the truck and only have 4 holes in the bed.
If I go to long bed truck I will most definately get a Pullrite hitch just because of that
You can also take it out of the truck and only have 4 holes in the bed.
Registered User
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 85
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From: So. Illinois
I bought my 5th wheel in February and the dealer installer a Reese 16K slider hitch....it is bolted to the frame, according to the TSB indicated above...no holes in the top or bottom, only in the sides...there are only 4 holes drilled.
The hitch works great and never had a problem with it....I understand there are more expensive units available but this one works fine for me....
The hitch works great and never had a problem with it....I understand there are more expensive units available but this one works fine for me....
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Joined: May 2005
Posts: 49
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From: CA
Cost may be a shocker!
Pullrite Superglide - NO holes drilled, clamps around
frame, uses two existing holes in frame for rear clamps -
plus lots of bolts to "pinch" the clamps together.
Oh yeah - the cost (ouch) - figure the best deal (price) will
be right around 2 grand!
But price vs cab damage, broken windows, etc. - will offset the
cost - also resale if you sell it later for some (?) reason.
You can install it yourself - best to have a helper for
torquing clamp bolts.
JC
frame, uses two existing holes in frame for rear clamps -
plus lots of bolts to "pinch" the clamps together.
Oh yeah - the cost (ouch) - figure the best deal (price) will
be right around 2 grand!
But price vs cab damage, broken windows, etc. - will offset the
cost - also resale if you sell it later for some (?) reason.
You can install it yourself - best to have a helper for
torquing clamp bolts.
JC