CB Installation
CB Installation
I'm moving to Montana in an area where there is no cell phone service. Everyone communicates with CB radios still. I will need to put one in my truck and our car as well. I assume all I need to do is have a power source and route the antenna wire outside somewhere. Do I need to run the CB on a separate relay? What’s the best method for getting power to it. Also if anyone has a favorite brand or model Id be happy to know what’s the best value for my dollar.
Thanks Zach
Thanks Zach
check out www.radioactiveradios.com they are a bunch of great guys! i plan on getting my CB from them this week. give them a call and leave a message. they will call you back quick!
I'd recommend springing for either a Galaxy or a Texas Ranger - since it will be your main means of communication, I would get a cb that will also handle duty as a single side band (SSB) as the SSB signal can be sent/received over a longer distance than a cb signal - unless, of course, you "juice" the cb signal with an illegal amplifier, which I don't recommend.
Whatever you get, have the shop you purchase the unit from "tweak" it to factory specs - costs only a few bucks.
Whatever you get, have the shop you purchase the unit from "tweak" it to factory specs - costs only a few bucks.
Here's factory guide for installation of two-way receivers. Used it to do mine this past weekend:
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2005/08-024-05.htm
I also use ANCOR wiring, heat-activated termination seals, and fuse holder (West Marine; you'll NEVER have to re-do it).
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...=1111&cid=1111
My install was with the FIRESTIK hood mount.
http://www.walcottcb.com/firestik-ss...unt-p-582.html
I ran all wiring through the pass side, grounded the radio on a seat bolt and will acquire a RAM Mount for the radio. I'll clean up (hide) all wiring at that point. With just a quick SWR check I was receiving better than five miles on an old Signal Engineering "Goldenrod 45" antenna. I also added copper-braid bond straps to hood and doors.
http://www.signalengineering.com/
Radio is also an old Uniden 76 as upgraded by Clay's CB Shop (see link info on tune-ups/mods). These guys have a great rep, I have used them many times over the past ten years. My little radio has a better sound than many "big" radios. Cast-iron reliable, unlike some of the fancy radios. Talk to them about the "best" SSB radio if that is what you want.
http://www.claysradioshop.com/uniden78ltw.htm
http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2005/08-024-05.htm
I also use ANCOR wiring, heat-activated termination seals, and fuse holder (West Marine; you'll NEVER have to re-do it).
http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs...=1111&cid=1111
My install was with the FIRESTIK hood mount.
http://www.walcottcb.com/firestik-ss...unt-p-582.html
I ran all wiring through the pass side, grounded the radio on a seat bolt and will acquire a RAM Mount for the radio. I'll clean up (hide) all wiring at that point. With just a quick SWR check I was receiving better than five miles on an old Signal Engineering "Goldenrod 45" antenna. I also added copper-braid bond straps to hood and doors.
http://www.signalengineering.com/
Radio is also an old Uniden 76 as upgraded by Clay's CB Shop (see link info on tune-ups/mods). These guys have a great rep, I have used them many times over the past ten years. My little radio has a better sound than many "big" radios. Cast-iron reliable, unlike some of the fancy radios. Talk to them about the "best" SSB radio if that is what you want.
http://www.claysradioshop.com/uniden78ltw.htm
I'd recommend springing for either a Galaxy or a Texas Ranger - since it will be your main means of communication, I would get a cb that will also handle duty as a single side band (SSB) as the SSB signal can be sent/received over a longer distance than a cb signal - unless, of course, you "juice" the cb signal with an illegal amplifier, which I don't recommend.
Whatever you get, have the shop you purchase the unit from "tweak" it to factory specs - costs only a few bucks.
Whatever you get, have the shop you purchase the unit from "tweak" it to factory specs - costs only a few bucks.
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