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a/c pressures on manifold gauge set

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Old Jul 15, 2010 | 11:21 PM
  #16  
CatDiesel_762's Avatar
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From: Gillette, Wyoming
If only we could hack the ecm with a normal code reader or palm pilot. Then we could program the truck the way we want with out all the other B.S. Such as fan clutch kick in and out temps.

Boy, do I like the older stuff better and better, now a days.


Shawn
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Old Jul 16, 2010 | 07:44 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by Spooler
First of all you should be testing it a idle. 700RPM. Both windows down, fan on high and set to max (recir) A/C. Hot hot or cold the truck is will affect the pressure readings. Ambient temp and humidity levels will also affect the pressure readings. You should be around 28-35psi on the low side and around 225-250 psi on the high side if your ambient temp is correct. When the fan cuts on it will drop your pressures. The only true way to charge a system is by weight and done with an R134 A/C machine. Should be charged to 1.88 lbs or slightly higher to 2.00 lbs. Looking at your pressures your are low on refrigerent.

The sticker under my hood says 1lb 14oz is the stock refill amount. I though I read somewhere (on this forum) that this was incorrect. You are suggesting 1.88lbs, I dont doubt your knowledge, but how do you come up with this figure? If I take my truck to have the AC charged, aren't they going to go off of the sticker? And if its wrong I will be wasting money! Will they fill it to my custom specs?

Oh, and I would like to say Hi to everyone here . My first post and I just bought this truck (2005 3500ctd quadcab auto short bed). After reading most problems I seem to have them all. I will work on the AC first then try and tackle the 70mph vibration. I like this truck, just got a few thing to work out. This forum has lots of good knowledge that I hope to add to.

I am thinking about putting the fan on the condenser like I saw done on the is site. Anyone have anymore updates on this mod. Is it still working?
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 03:49 AM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by t wrecks
The sticker under my hood says 1lb 14oz is the stock refill amount. I though I read somewhere (on this forum) that this was incorrect. You are suggesting 1.88lbs, I dont doubt your knowledge, but how do you come up with this figure? If I take my truck to have the AC charged, aren't they going to go off of the sticker? And if its wrong I will be wasting money! Will they fill it to my custom specs?

Oh, and I would like to say Hi to everyone here . My first post and I just bought this truck (2005 3500ctd quadcab auto short bed). After reading most problems I seem to have them all. I will work on the AC first then try and tackle the 70mph vibration. I like this truck, just got a few thing to work out. This forum has lots of good knowledge that I hope to add to.

I am thinking about putting the fan on the condenser like I saw done on the is site. Anyone have anymore updates on this mod. Is it still working?


Because 16 oz = 1 lb. Just do the math. If they go off the sticker, it will be 1.88 lbs.
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Old Jul 17, 2010 | 11:38 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by Spooler
Because 16 oz = 1 lb. Just do the math. If they go off the sticker, it will be 1.88 lbs.
Ok, I now understand. Thanks.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 11:33 AM
  #20  
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From: GAFFNEY, SC
Replaced my compressor last night and the mechanic noticed the high side pressure reached around 400 PSI. The fan finally kicked in and it dropped. Is this normal or should my fan be kicking in sooner? Is it time for a new fan drive? Or is something else possibly wrong?

This was done in an enclosed shop with no air from anything.
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Old Apr 19, 2012 | 03:50 PM
  #21  
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From: Claxton, GA
Originally Posted by riddle family
Replaced my compressor last night and the mechanic noticed the high side pressure reached around 400 PSI. The fan finally kicked in and it dropped. Is this normal or should my fan be kicking in sooner? Is it time for a new fan drive? Or is something else possibly wrong?

This was done in an enclosed shop with no air from anything.
This is normal. This is why our trucks will push out refrig. and I have installed a BeCool electric fan on my condensor....
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 09:33 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by Spooler
This is normal. This is why our trucks will push out refrig. and I have installed a BeCool electric fan on my condensor....
Spooler,

Have you notice lower high side pressures with the electric fan?

I was thinking of going with the upgraded hoses. Although, the fan might be a cheaper alternative.

Shawn
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Old Apr 28, 2012 | 11:45 PM
  #23  
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From: Claxton, GA
Originally Posted by CatDiesel_762
Spooler,

Have you notice lower high side pressures with the electric fan?

I was thinking of going with the upgraded hoses. Although, the fan might be a cheaper alternative.

Shawn
Yes, it corrects that problem and the high side stays in check.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 11:37 AM
  #24  
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From: Gillette, Wyoming
Spooler,

So let me get this right. You are using an external pusher fan to move more air across the A/C Condenser. Which helps keeps the high pressure side pressures in the 300 psi (normal) range. This in turns prevents the blow off valve on the A/ Compressor from releasing the refrigerant to the atmosphere.

How is the pusher fan wired into the truck? Thur a temp switch- relay or driver activated rocker Switch?
Are you concerned about restricted airflow through the big three cores around the fan when not in use?
Since you done this mod. Have you had to add refrigerant to the system?

Shawn
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 12:28 PM
  #25  
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From: Cochrane Alberta
Originally Posted by Dave04600
My system hasn't been worked on in 6 years. Don't A/c systems typically loose refrigerant over time?
Actually A/C systems do slowly leak over time.

The specs for A/C refrigerant lines actually state how much they lose over a given period of time.

If you have low system pressure and the system is still working, just not well, its worth it to top it up vs evac and looking for a leak.

Now if the system is totally empty then you definitely need to look for a leak.
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Old Apr 29, 2012 | 06:31 PM
  #26  
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From: Pueblo West
I don't have a trans cooler so I mounted 2-12" fans where the auto trans cooler would be. I pulled the cover off the wiring plug on the firewall and found the wire to the clutch to pull in the fan relays. I charged it by superheat and while doing that I discovered the orifice tube is about 2' from the firewall so I insulated between the orifice tube and firewall. Now I have cold air, much faster. How clever of dodge to make the fan come on too late and leave that uninsulated lo-side line under the hood... NOT! Craig
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Old Apr 30, 2012 | 09:10 AM
  #27  
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From: Claxton, GA
Originally Posted by CatDiesel_762
Spooler,

So let me get this right. You are using an external pusher fan to move more air across the A/C Condenser. Which helps keeps the high pressure side pressures in the 300 psi (normal) range. This in turns prevents the blow off valve on the A/ Compressor from releasing the refrigerant to the atmosphere.

How is the pusher fan wired into the truck? Thur a temp switch- relay or driver activated rocker Switch?
Are you concerned about restricted airflow through the big three cores around the fan when not in use?
Since you done this mod. Have you had to add refrigerant to the system?

Shawn
I used a Derale relay setup. I did a writeup on here for it. I have had to add refrig but it goes twice as long as it used to. I do think I have a shrader valve leaking on the low side. Got some dye in it this time to see if I can find it. No issues under a vaccum. No issues with restricted flow.
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Old May 4, 2012 | 06:38 PM
  #28  
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From: Corpus Christi, Texas
A/C Condenser Fan

My system, at nine years, is in need of replacement (as I have another nine years to go and don't want to crutch it along). But some upgrades are cheap and easy as funds accummulate:

1] Heater core bypass
2] Pusher fan

And a cheap set of gauges to keep system topped up for now.

.
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