Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: 40 miles North of Reno Nevada
Bushwacker Extend-A-Fender
Anyone using these? I have seen several different measurements on the net for these from 1.5 to 2.25". Anyone know how far out the really go? I need at least 2.25". If they won't do that I guess I will have to go to the Pocket Flares. Any other ideas???
Thanks; Jim
Thanks; Jim
I just instaled ATS flares on mine and love them. They have two sided emblem tape on the top so they dont vibrate and rub your paint off like the bushwackers. They bolt to factory holes under the fender and came pre painted to mach. Just bolt them on and they are done. I balive they stick out 2 inches but I am not shure. They are just a hair short of covering the wheels I put on.
I have no digital pics of mine but a lot of people on here do. I found ATS's web site and called them. They refered me to a guy on the east coast that only deals with large orders for dealers and such. He normaly dont deal with the general public exept on referals. The price was $375 painted plus shipping. If I can get my buddie to bring his digi cam over I will try to post pics.
I have the Warn 4XFlares, they require little to no drilling, provide around 2.5" of clearance and are held in place with doublesided 3M tape, thus no rubbing of paint. I'm having my flares coated with spray-on bed liner, so theyr'e not on the truck at present but I believe a few other guys around here have them on their trucks.
Just got pics up and aproved. Here is my truck with 295-70-17 Tera Graplers on ION type 165 rims with ATS Flares.
Aperantly i have no clue what I am doing with this computer because I was trying to get a pic in the post but I geuss you will just have to go to my pic gallery.
charcoal600, the front warn 4x flares don't require drilling but the back ones do. I drilled a few holes for the front anyway because it wasn't secure enough the the roads I drive.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: 40 miles North of Reno Nevada
Warn 4X flares
I went with the Warn 4X flares. The fit perfect and provide the coverage I needed for my 315/70/17 on 17X10" rims. Thanks again for all the input.
Jim
Jim
Originally posted by bkrukow
I just instaled ATS flares on mine and love them. They have two sided emblem tape on the top so they dont vibrate and rub your paint off like the bushwackers. They bolt to factory holes under the fender and came pre painted to mach. Just bolt them on and they are done. I balive they stick out 2 inches but I am not shure. They are just a hair short of covering the wheels I put on.
I just instaled ATS flares on mine and love them. They have two sided emblem tape on the top so they dont vibrate and rub your paint off like the bushwackers. They bolt to factory holes under the fender and came pre painted to mach. Just bolt them on and they are done. I balive they stick out 2 inches but I am not shure. They are just a hair short of covering the wheels I put on.
I just picked mine up last night. The hardware included 6 "self taping" screws, 3 for each of the rears that go into the 11, 1 & 2 o'clock positions, 4 push pins, and 10 trim screws.
Questions:
Did your rig already have holes in the 11, 1 & 2 O'clock positions or did you have to use the self taping screws for them?
These screws don't look very "self tapping" to me, they look morelike dry wall screws. I worried about stripping out the heads before they start to take. Considering predrilling.
The forward side of the rear fenders has two large holes, how well did the push pins fit and hold?
The screws that replace the stock screws also hold the wheel well guards in place, did these screws do okay holding the fenders and the guards in place?
I did a dry mock up last night and the installation hardware looks kind of cheesy.
Thanks
Steve
Originally posted by SHyans
Bkrukow-
I just picked mine up last night. The hardware included 6 "self taping" screws, 3 for each of the rears that go into the 11, 1 & 2 o'clock positions, 4 push pins, and 10 trim screws.
Questions:
Did your rig already have holes in the 11, 1 & 2 O'clock positions or did you have to use the self taping screws for them?
These screws don't look very "self tapping" to me, they look morelike dry wall screws. I worried about stripping out the heads before they start to take. Considering predrilling.
The forward side of the rear fenders has two large holes, how well did the push pins fit and hold?
The screws that replace the stock screws also hold the wheel well guards in place, did these screws do okay holding the fenders and the guards in place?
I did a dry mock up last night and the installation hardware looks kind of cheesy.
Thanks
Steve
Bkrukow-
I just picked mine up last night. The hardware included 6 "self taping" screws, 3 for each of the rears that go into the 11, 1 & 2 o'clock positions, 4 push pins, and 10 trim screws.
Questions:
Did your rig already have holes in the 11, 1 & 2 O'clock positions or did you have to use the self taping screws for them?
These screws don't look very "self tapping" to me, they look morelike dry wall screws. I worried about stripping out the heads before they start to take. Considering predrilling.
The forward side of the rear fenders has two large holes, how well did the push pins fit and hold?
The screws that replace the stock screws also hold the wheel well guards in place, did these screws do okay holding the fenders and the guards in place?
I did a dry mock up last night and the installation hardware looks kind of cheesy.
Thanks
Steve
The front flares prety well bolted rite up. They did not require any mods. The rear however where a pin in the but. I had to redrill the back 2 holes to make them line up. (new holes in flares not truck) There is a peice that fits into the body line on the truck and in order for it to line up the holes had to be off abought 1/4 inch. So I just redrilled new holes and called it good. I should have redrilled the 2 in the front of the rear tire where the push pins go. They where a REAL PAIN in the you know what. I almost dident get them. Drilling new holes would have been eisier. There where no holes in the tabs on the truck where the self tapping screws go. The "self tapping" screws dident look self tapping to me either so I pre drilled the holes. The screws that replace the factory ones that hold the fender liner in place seem to work good just check them after a wile. I had one start to back out. I retightened it and now its fine.
On a side note. After cursing a lot at the Cummins emblem while trying to remove it, I decided I like the look of it with out the emblems. So now my next step is to remove all badges and paint the mirrors and dore handles and dore molding silver to mach the truck. A monocromatic look. Then to give it some collor put a graphic on the side. I was thinking of a American flag that is behind torn mettal. Like this one.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/.../cat/500/page/
If anyone knows if this is a store boughten grafic or if it is a one off please let me know. Otherwise i have 2 options.
1 is a local Auto grafics company who is very good at this type of stuff will duplicate it as close as posible from pics or a freind at work who is incredibly tallinted will air brush it on for me. This guy is VERY VERY gifted. He does portraits for people and custome paint jobs like this. What rout would you guys take? Vinil grafic or airbrush??? I would think the air brush would wear off if not clear coated over. but I dont know.
Originally posted by 03CTDCO
bkrukow
Can you still use the factory mud flaps with these ATS flares ?
bkrukow
Can you still use the factory mud flaps with these ATS flares ?
Thanks BK-
ATS sent me a new pack of hardware. The self tapping screws in this kit are "self tapping screws". They originally sent me a 2002 kit. OVernighted the new one ot me. Thanks Rich at ATS (sent me a shirt too!)
Your comments are useful, should help with install tomorrow.
ATS sent me a new pack of hardware. The self tapping screws in this kit are "self tapping screws". They originally sent me a 2002 kit. OVernighted the new one ot me. Thanks Rich at ATS (sent me a shirt too!)
Your comments are useful, should help with install tomorrow.
Originally posted by mestdagh
charcoal600, the front warn 4x flares don't require drilling but the back ones do. I drilled a few holes for the front anyway because it wasn't secure enough the the roads I drive.
charcoal600, the front warn 4x flares don't require drilling but the back ones do. I drilled a few holes for the front anyway because it wasn't secure enough the the roads I drive.
I had the same problem with my ATS rear fender flares a few days ago. I managed to "make em' fit" using the existing holes but that was the wrong idea. The stress of me forcing the flares into position caused the 3M tape to pop off in a few places overnight. By morning the glue had more or less set and in a few places the flare is NOT stuck to the side of the truck properly and I have some very small gaps. It ain't ugly, but it ain't perfect either. That means I get to remove the flares, remove all the 3M tape, re-prep the fenders and the flares and try it all over again. I've got a buddy at ATS and I will be giving him a piece of my mind tomorrow. I thought maybe my TRUCK was to blame. It sounds more like the ATS rear fender flares are a little off.
Aloha
Aloha


