Well, SUCCESS! Everything is working like new! 7 wires broken on the left and 6 broken on the right. Difference? A power wire was broken on the left and not the right. I put too much extra wire on the left which made it very hard to get back into the boot BUT will also probably inhibit some of the movement. Put three inches on the right and it seemed to work well. There wasn't really enough room to use the crimps so I did a good twist making sure both wires moved equally and wrapped them well. We'll see how long it lasts. The good news? I now know how to fix it if it breaks again and it didn't take that long!!

 

Add me to the list.



One (speaker) was completely broken, two others were all the way through their insulation. I taped the two and put a solderless butt connector on the other, since I didn't want to mess with soldering.

Anybody know if the OEM replacement harness is improved at all?

 

I've been chasing a couple of problems with my rear door window. I got a new switch for it and also fixed some cold solder joints on the driver module and it started working again. Then it would work sometimes and then sometimes not. I looked at these threads about the wiring getting broken after my rear speaker quit working. Today I opened it up and all 9 wires were broken. Two were hanging on by insulation and a couple of strands of wire. I relieved some stress by moving the harness inside the door but I repaired the wires a little differently. I took the plug out from the door jam and removed the pins from the plug and took off the boot. I soldered all the wires and put on shrink sleeve and put it all back together and it all works now except for the window. I am sure that the window is still a problem with the driver control module. Removing the pins was easy and I couldn't imagine soldering the wires while holding the rubber boot back.
I still can't imagine how people get to fit the crimp connectors when used as a repair???

 

My door lock on my 06 just failed this week, called the dealer just to price out a new harness and they are no longer available, so I will be fixin mine now too.

 

Your are absolutely right there is not enough room in the boot for buttsplices on all of the broken and they are too close to the connector to offset the splices. I think solder and heat shrink is the only way to go but that is still tight. Im thinking the wire fasteners that hold it to the door panel need to be left out to allow for more slack and mobility. I wanted to buy just the female connector and re-terminate with better wire but idk where to find a connector

 

That is what my mechanic (in bold type) did to my truck. I also had him add extra wire to my door wires so that won't happen ever again. Since I suck at electrical I had him do it and I believe I was only charged $100 T.T. & L.

 

When I repaired the doors on my 2003 all the wires except one big one in the driver's door were broken and the one that was was cracked.

I used butt crimps that have the heat shrink tube built into them. Some of the wires were broken close to the connector so I had to trim the heat shrink covering down on one end to get it close enough. Was a bit of a tight fit but they all fit fine and are still working 5 years later.

 

I am having a different problem...the rear door locks and rear will only work from the main station (drivers panel) and not the individual stations. Any suggestions?? TIA

Jim

 

Thanks for the picture

 

I have 2 connectors, 1 white and 1 black inside the cab pillar, with double the number of wire. I can not see any breaks inside the boot. My truck is just a SLT california special. My dome light burned out and took the dash lights with it. replaced the dome light bulb, burn spot in the fixture and it work but the dash light are still out and a fuse keeps blowing. i have problems with door locks not working also. anyone have this wiring setup??

 

Dash lights are pften on the same fuse as you marker lights. Are they all working? If not then you need to expand your search to those lights as well. I've actually had a bulb filament short across a filament inside the bulb.

 

i will check the other lights when i gets dark. the passenger side door has fewer wires so i need to check that for breaks.

 

the only lights other then head and tail are the license plate lights and they dont work..maybe on same circuit.

 

lots more, square end and 2 connectors.

 

Just did this today been driving for close to 2 years without the rear lock or rear speaker. Couldn't find the problem til I found this thread. Thanks.