Last week I noticed that I could not redirect the flow of my HVAC to the defroster or down to the floor. The air only comes out of the vents that face the driver. I have not noticed any noise, reduction in airflow, and temperature controls seem to work like normal. Nothing seems to be amiss except the lack of redirecting the flow to the defroster or floor.

I know that many (many many many) people have had problems with the blend doors, but it always seems to be accompanied by reduced flow.

I took the truck to the dealership, and they are quoting me $1650 for the repair ($450 for parts, $1200 labor). They say that the "mode door" is broken, and told me parts 68021979AA, 68021975AA, and 4885206AB would need to be replaced. That's basically the entire HVAC body. They also said the HVAC needed to be discharged to complete the repair, and re-charged when done.

After reading the "The Infamous HVAC Door Issue Strikes" thread, I think I can definitely pull the dash and replace the blend door assembly (thanks ratlratl!!!), but I'm not sure that's the problem!

My initial thought is to replace the recirculation housing (68004226AB) for $55 and see if that works. Anyone else have any suggestions?

 

Mine broke a couple months ago, fortunately plugging her in at night helps and when you select defrost it still removes the humidity from the cab, so the windows still clear, just not as quickly.

 

Mine's been broken for over a year. When I get around to fixing it I'll be doing all the doors myself with Heater Treaters.

Dodge Ram '02-'08 - '02 - '08 - Ram - Dodge

 

Picked up the truck from the dealership and this is what the diagnostic said:

 

I don't think replacing the recirc door will fix your problem. When this door breaks it falls down and covers up the fan which results in restricted air flow to the vents.

 

No it sounds like the blend and recirc doors are ok but the other ones are broken.

Somewhere along the line the housing was updated with more sturdy tabs that engage the couplers to limit door movement and prevent breaking.

I had my dash and HVAC case out of my 06, letting an AC shop take care of evacuating, drying and recharging the system.

It was a good 5.5 hours to remove and similar time to reinstall.

Not particularly complicated, but a lot of trim panels, fasteners and stuff to deal with, and you want to be careful and not scar anything up.

There is a mount bolt behind the coolant overflow bottle that is a pain. I'd also recommend completely removing the column, as opposed to just dropping it down.

You might also find this thread helpful.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...rstood-210483/

 

I just had the same issue, 05 stuck on front vents and heat, couldn't change from that. I had my local shop, not dealer, replace all four doors with the doors from Heater Treater. Not cheap.... But hopefully never have to fix again.

 

Thanks for the input, sounds like I'm just a little bit screwed on this... Maybe I can find a good recommendation for a 12 volt dash fan.

 

I dunno what to think about the heater treater system. Metal doors that won't break is a great idea, but I'm not sure about the plan to cut openings In the hvac case to change them and avoid pullin the dash.

 

My shop pulled the whole dash to replace the doors. Neither of us liked the idea of cutting holes, a lot more work pulling the dash apart, but it was done right. As far as I'm concerned.

 

Yeah, that was kind of my thought on the idea.

 

x3. I would use the heater treater doors, but install them properly.

 

I used the thread and pics from the above link to pull my dash and change the (leaking) evaporator and heater coils last week. Took me about 8-9 hours total. Be careful with the plastic actuator arms for the doors when splitting the A/C unit in half. I broke one trying to pry the metal arm out of it for disassembly. It was a dealer part and luckily they had one in stock.

 

Had the exact same problem with my 06 megacab 1500. Heater treater will be able to tell exactly which "mode door" to replace. Its a project to take the dash and trim apart however; with a dremel tool and the stencil that heater treater supplies, cutting the plenum box open and replacing the door is the easy part. I taped mine back up with the metal duct tape and it works perfectly. Saved $1000+

 

Just have to ask since i'm here - yesterday on a long drive home i turned the air to "high" on re-circ and could hear some rattling from the glove box area and hardly any flow out of the vents.

Which problem is this related to?