D45

Well, I am ready to start looking for some new audio equipment. I have come to the realization that the stock deck and stock speakers are pathetic.

This will just be for my own personal use, and I will never use it for competition or shows.

I know I definately want to replace the factory CD player with an aftermarket unit. Any features or things I need to look for in a CD deck?

I do not need anything crazy special like one of those flip out GPS/Navigation monitors. I want to buy good quality stuff, just not extreme high end competition components.

For now, I am looking for suggestions on the following:
-CD Player
-Front Speakers
-Rear Speakers

Should I buy an amp for the door speakers? Everyone I talk to says yes, because it will make things much more clear, crisp, and yes.......loud.

I think I am also going to get a unit that fits under the rear seat and holds two 10" or two 12" subs. So, I am also going to need an amp.

How can amp outputs will a CD deck need to run two amps?

Thanks for any and all info, and suggestions.

paroxysym

ill be watching this thread, im curious as well. im looking to replace the stock deck/speakers

D45

For the CD player deck, I was looking to spend $150-$225

Right now, Crutchfield has the Blaupunkt Hamburg MP7 for $100 off.

It was a $300 deck, which is on sale for $199.99

I know the front speakers are 6X9s and I was told I can fit 6.5s in the rear doors.

How important is it to get 3 way or 2 way speakers?

BlueOx1

Just changing the stock deck and speakers will make a huge difference .I found a place called onlinecarstreo.com that sells stuff for 1/2 the price of crutchfield .I ordered everything for my dad's truck from there and had no problems, the one thing that we did have to buy is the install kit which we got from crutchfield , and it seemed to be the better looking of the different install kits I looked at Good luck shopping
Joe

cmac

i used Infinity 3 way 6x9's in my doors with the matching little round speakers in the back. the deck i used is alpine if i remember correctly. no subs or amps and it is LOUD!!! the 3-ways seem to give better mid and high tones.... had two ways in it when i got the truck and i personally think the 3-ways sound much better, clearer, crisper, and louder. i have never had any problems with the deck, it is sattelite ready, ipod ready, and the face place flips down for the cd player. i was looking to put a sub and amp in but it is kinda hard to find room with a reg. cab. also buying the wiring harnesses isnt necessary but they work wonders and will save you alot of time.(also nice if you ever decide to sell the truck and want to keep the deck, unplug it and plug in the stock one!!)

tvanry

I was wondering, is it necessary to have the wiring harness? i just talked to kid at a car stereo place and the wanted 120 bucks for the harness, i told him for that much i can hard wire it in to the truck, and according to the kid if i did that it would do something to the truck so that it will not start. I dont know if that its true or not but, i agree with the fact that the harness is going to be by far the best way to install, but a 120 dollars for a harness??? How hard is it to get the factory stereo out of the truck? and how do you do it with out breaking plastic pieces?

cmac

not sure on the newer trucks as to how you take out the radio.... but $120 for a harness is absolutley a rip off..... go to best buy, yours will probably be more than mine($20 i think is what i paid) being a newer truck and all but holy crap thats a lot!!!!

D45

I have narrowed my CD Player choice down to 6 various units.

I tossed out the Blaupunkt Hamburg idea, because it is not satelite radio ready, something that I am going to use in the future.

I really like the Clarion, Kenwood, Sony, and Pioneer units.

All seem to have very good quality, just vary on price from $170-$220. I am amazed how inexpensive these CD players are for the great features they have. I was expecting to have to pay $300+ for a good head unit.

I am going to order the CD player tomorrow and then look at the door speakers next week.

D45

Very good prices!!

http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/

For the Clarion DXZ585USB, it is $165 at Online Car Stereo and Crutchfield wants $220!

THEDIESELMAN

Its true the local stereo shop told me the same thing and I did some searching and sorry to say its true but you can find them for cheaper on ebay.

dropped2500

Seeing how yours is a laramie...does it have the hand controls behind the wheel and do you have the infinity factory sound system? If yes to both of those the harness may be 120 bucks and it not starting or your radio not working could be a problem if you hard wire it! Go here and follow the instructions and it will tell you....http://www.crutchfield.com/cgi-bin/a...r%2fMyCar.aspx ..But i know the box to make your steering wheel buttons work with an aftermarket deck is pretty pricey! As for hard wiring, i highly recommend you dont, but thats just me!

chipmonk

PM sent......

BroncoHound

D45,

The following statements are all my own personal opinion based on years of being an audiophile and trying lots and lots of different things. Read the following suggestions with that in mind.

For a deck, I would recommend an Alpine unit. Look into the CDA-level units (the CDE-xxxx units are the base line while the CDA units offer more options such as multiple preouts, sat radio capability, hd radio capability, etc) such as the CDA-9884 or similar. They have the best iPod interface of any other brand of H/U's I have experienced and have proven to be a solid, easy to use, great performing brand. They also have an extensive add-on list for their units to include iPod controls, XM radio, Sirius radio, HD radio, bluetooth integration, etc.

As for door speakers, I would suggest a decent component set in the front doors while leaving your rear doors stock. If you prefer sound quality and want distinct separation in the instruments of your music, components are the ONLY way to go. They do require drilling a couple small holes or one large hole to mount the tweeters but if you take your time during install it will come out looking factory. You would probably want a decent amplifier pushing the front components to maximize the sound quality. Leave your rear doors stock and push the fader on your headunit forward to the point where you can just barely hear any sound coming from your rear speakers. Just a little bit of sound is all you need from your rear fill in order to properly set up your sound stage. You want your front stage to be the primary so, when you close your eyes in the front seat of your truck, you can imagine a stage in front of you and will be able to point out, based on sound, where each instrument is located on the stage. Some brands of components that I really like in the "middle of the road" are CTD, Rainbow, Boston Acoustics, Polk, and JL Audio.

As far as subwoofers are concerned, the enclosure you build/buy for them is just as important as the subwoofers you buy with regards to the sound quality you will get from them. If you prefer tight, punchy bass then you will want a sealed enclosure or a ported enclosure tuned very low. if you want more deep, drawn out bass you will want a ported enclosure tuned to a higher hz. I have found that, in a quad cab dodge, a ported enclosure tuned to about 35hz makes for a very good SQ-based driver system. A guy named Joe Fox makes an enclosure (aptly named the FoxBox) that is tuned so. I installed one in my father's '05 QC Ram3500 with 2 JL Audio 10w3v2 subs powered by a JL Audio 500/1 amplifier and it sounds fantastic.

Another thing you will want to consider is upgrading your "Big 3" when you add your sound system. This includes the positive cable from your alternator to your battery, the negative cable from your engine block to the battery, and the negative cable from the frame to the battery to at least 2 gauge wiring. I actually prefer 1/0 gauge on the Big 3. This will allow a more steady flow of electricity with the added draw and will extend the life of both your alternator and your battery.

Hope this helps.

Fisherguy

Great advice, but what about mounting the woofer part of the component set in the front doors and putting the tweaters in your (empty) dash board speaker locations so you don't need to cut up your door panels?

chipmonk

exactly- even if your truck didn't come with the factory 'infinity' system, the tweeter holes are still there just waiting to be used. IMO, focal speakers and JL subs are the way to go- lots of companies (like infinity) that used to make real high end stuff, got bought out and now make lower quality assembly line speakers.