Audio Suggestions Needed
06-29-2008, 03:48 PM
#32
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yup, i think the 500 watts would be max, not rms. about the 'infinity' components, other than the infinity name and logo there is nothing infinity about them. both their reference and kappa series have materials and construction techniques that are unique to infinity speakers. the dodge infinity components use very cheap materials and manufacturing (common to factory OEM speakers, but not to infinity speakers), and this is not only seen with dodge. many car manufactures upgrade stereo systems with a high end name on them are not actually made by the company, but 'designed' by that company and stamped with the company's logo and the speakers themselves are farmed out to an Asian mass production type company (similar to, or the same as the company that does the OEM speakers). not trying to start an argument, but i went through this same exact thing when i removed and up graded the 'infinity' system on my 2nd gen. with an infinity upgrade available on most every model of dodge vehicle, think how impracticle it would be for infinity to have to manufacture individual amps and speaker components for each of those models, and keep parts available for dodge parts dept's all over the world for current and previous model years.
06-29-2008, 04:35 PM
#33
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thats why i went and bought my own infinity speakers.... not that the ones from dodge sound bad but they are more than three times the price from the dealer than they were from the store i bought them from. and the dealer "infinity" speakers are not near as good as the actual infinity speakers you can get on the market. not trying to argue if the ones from dodge are actually infinity or not (because i really have no idea) just that if you go to a store and not a dealer they sound much better and are much cheaper....
06-29-2008, 09:02 PM
#34
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anyway, i just finished installing my head unit and the factory amp interface today hoping since i wouldn't be using the high level inputs on the amp and would be able to use the built in crossovers it would sound a lot better but honestly it doesn't sound much better than it did except can turn it up more without the factory "subs" distorion also the interface is giving the HU power through the accessory wire no matter what position the key is in (please don't tell me it isn't hooked up right) so i have to turn off the HU everytime.
oh, and the JL's are designed to handle 500 watts RMS each and the amp puts out 1000 watts RMS (2 ohm mono). my subs are 8 ohm so wired in parralell (brings them down to 4 ohm) i'm pushing 250 RMS to each one, i may sell them and buy 4 ohm but then i'll be pushing 500 RMS to each one (wired in parallel at 2 ohms) but it would be easy to blow them that way if not careful.
06-29-2008, 10:02 PM
#35
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i see you like to criticize everyone like you're the only one that knows what they're talking about here, not trying to start an argument but don't worry i got this all figured out already and i understand that it may be necessary to upgrade the speakers or even bypass the amp get a new one and run new wires throughout but i'm not sure i want to go that far just yet.
06-30-2008, 10:15 AM
#36
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being as that you're running 2 JL dub 3's (i think that's what you have) and i'm only running a single dub 1, it's obvious that you know lots about what you're doing with your system. sorry if you took my ribbing the wrong way. BTW, are you not happy with the dub 3's or do you think you need to send more power to them?
06-30-2008, 10:46 AM
#37
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i'm happy with it but i think they should sound better for what they are. i originally thought it was because i was using the high level input on the amp but now that i'm using rca's it sounds pretty much the same. i bought the box off ebay with the subs already installed, i honestly don't know how much airspace the subs need to sound their best and don't know how much volume the box is but i know its sealed. maybe i need to use bigger speaker wires then the 16 gauge i have now or maybe more power or a capacitor. after listening to the factory speakers some more i will probably be replacing them soon since its not a real expensive project.
On a side note if you are looking for a replacement enclosure i recommend the foxbox (www.foxacoustics.com). It is a ported enclosure tuned to 35hz for 2 10" drivers and, as I've stated before, the 10w3v2's in my dad's truck sound phenominal. I've never really been a fan of ported enclosure's (i like my bass tight and punchy, not dull and muddy) but this enclosure has sold me. I intend to put the exact same one in my '08 when the free Sirius ends.
06-30-2008, 01:05 PM
#38
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i'm happy with it but i think they should sound better for what they are. i originally thought it was because i was using the high level input on the amp but now that i'm using rca's it sounds pretty much the same. i bought the box off ebay with the subs already installed, i honestly don't know how much airspace the subs need to sound their best and don't know how much volume the box is but i know its sealed. maybe i need to use bigger speaker wires then the 16 gauge i have now or maybe more power or a capacitor. after listening to the factory speakers some more i will probably be replacing them soon since its not a real expensive project.
06-30-2008, 01:50 PM
#39
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If you are still looking for the wiring harness for the radio there is a product called "Charidya" I think that is what it is if you contacy crutchfield I know they have their version of it.I want to say my dad paid 60 for it.
Joe
Joe
06-30-2008, 05:12 PM
#40
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i think JL Audio recommends something like .62cu. ft. but I have found, with the higher end lines of JL Audio, more air = better
what doesn't sound right? what kind of tuning can you do with that kicker amp? if you're going for low, hard hitting bass, i know people who have tuned their subs as low as 35 hz (i think the fox boxes are tuned to 35 hz). my single dub 1 in a sealed enclosure (currently powered by 140 watts bridged), sounds great and hits hard at about 45 hz. does your deck have preamp outputs for subs, or are you using the regular speaker channels? could you use your amp to just power up one of the subs, to see if it's a power issue? once you get it straightened out, those 2 dub 3's should hit ludicrous hard, and combined with some good components up front will make your truck sound incredible.
06-30-2008, 06:07 PM
#41
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its hooked up to dedicated sub preamp outputs now since i put the aftermarket deck in. i was really just expecting more of a difference in sound quality between the high level inputs and having it hooked up with preamp inputs. i think if i hook up just one speaker it will still only get 250 watts RMS because it will then be an 8 ohm load on the amp. the amp is adjustable from 50hz to 200hz i believe and i have it set halfway, also the gain is halfway, has a bass boost **** which i leave at 0, and a subsonic frequencies switch that i leave off. the HU has high and low pass filters, high is at 125Hz (highest setting) and low left off figured it would be better to adjust on the amp. does this sound about right?
06-30-2008, 07:05 PM
#42
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thanks for the advice, i'll have to mess with things tomorrow.
btw, had the subs out of the box so i could redrill the stripped holes and measured the mdf thickness at 1/2"
yeah, thats not thick enough even though its coated in a line-x type material. JL Audio says don't use anything less than 5/8" but preferably 3/4". I believe this is my main problem, may need to find a sturdier box.
btw, had the subs out of the box so i could redrill the stripped holes and measured the mdf thickness at 1/2"
yeah, thats not thick enough even though its coated in a line-x type material. JL Audio says don't use anything less than 5/8" but preferably 3/4". I believe this is my main problem, may need to find a sturdier box.
06-30-2008, 09:55 PM
#43
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D45,
The following statements are all my own personal opinion based on years of being an audiophile and trying lots and lots of different things. Read the following suggestions with that in mind.
For a deck, I would recommend an Alpine unit. Look into the CDA-level units (the CDE-xxxx units are the base line while the CDA units offer more options such as multiple preouts, sat radio capability, hd radio capability, etc) such as the CDA-9884 or similar. They have the best iPod interface of any other brand of H/U's I have experienced and have proven to be a solid, easy to use, great performing brand. They also have an extensive add-on list for their units to include iPod controls, XM radio, Sirius radio, HD radio, bluetooth integration, etc.
As for door speakers, I would suggest a decent component set in the front doors while leaving your rear doors stock. If you prefer sound quality and want distinct separation in the instruments of your music, components are the ONLY way to go. They do require drilling a couple small holes or one large hole to mount the tweeters but if you take your time during install it will come out looking factory. You would probably want a decent amplifier pushing the front components to maximize the sound quality. Leave your rear doors stock and push the fader on your headunit forward to the point where you can just barely hear any sound coming from your rear speakers. Just a little bit of sound is all you need from your rear fill in order to properly set up your sound stage. You want your front stage to be the primary so, when you close your eyes in the front seat of your truck, you can imagine a stage in front of you and will be able to point out, based on sound, where each instrument is located on the stage. Some brands of components that I really like in the "middle of the road" are CTD, Rainbow, Boston Acoustics, Polk, and JL Audio.
As far as subwoofers are concerned, the enclosure you build/buy for them is just as important as the subwoofers you buy with regards to the sound quality you will get from them. If you prefer tight, punchy bass then you will want a sealed enclosure or a ported enclosure tuned very low. if you want more deep, drawn out bass you will want a ported enclosure tuned to a higher hz. I have found that, in a quad cab dodge, a ported enclosure tuned to about 35hz makes for a very good SQ-based driver system. A guy named Joe Fox makes an enclosure (aptly named the FoxBox) that is tuned so. I installed one in my father's '05 QC Ram3500 with 2 JL Audio 10w3v2 subs powered by a JL Audio 500/1 amplifier and it sounds fantastic.
Another thing you will want to consider is upgrading your "Big 3" when you add your sound system. This includes the positive cable from your alternator to your battery, the negative cable from your engine block to the battery, and the negative cable from the frame to the battery to at least 2 gauge wiring. I actually prefer 1/0 gauge on the Big 3. This will allow a more steady flow of electricity with the added draw and will extend the life of both your alternator and your battery.
Hope this helps.
The following statements are all my own personal opinion based on years of being an audiophile and trying lots and lots of different things. Read the following suggestions with that in mind.
For a deck, I would recommend an Alpine unit. Look into the CDA-level units (the CDE-xxxx units are the base line while the CDA units offer more options such as multiple preouts, sat radio capability, hd radio capability, etc) such as the CDA-9884 or similar. They have the best iPod interface of any other brand of H/U's I have experienced and have proven to be a solid, easy to use, great performing brand. They also have an extensive add-on list for their units to include iPod controls, XM radio, Sirius radio, HD radio, bluetooth integration, etc.
As for door speakers, I would suggest a decent component set in the front doors while leaving your rear doors stock. If you prefer sound quality and want distinct separation in the instruments of your music, components are the ONLY way to go. They do require drilling a couple small holes or one large hole to mount the tweeters but if you take your time during install it will come out looking factory. You would probably want a decent amplifier pushing the front components to maximize the sound quality. Leave your rear doors stock and push the fader on your headunit forward to the point where you can just barely hear any sound coming from your rear speakers. Just a little bit of sound is all you need from your rear fill in order to properly set up your sound stage. You want your front stage to be the primary so, when you close your eyes in the front seat of your truck, you can imagine a stage in front of you and will be able to point out, based on sound, where each instrument is located on the stage. Some brands of components that I really like in the "middle of the road" are CTD, Rainbow, Boston Acoustics, Polk, and JL Audio.
As far as subwoofers are concerned, the enclosure you build/buy for them is just as important as the subwoofers you buy with regards to the sound quality you will get from them. If you prefer tight, punchy bass then you will want a sealed enclosure or a ported enclosure tuned very low. if you want more deep, drawn out bass you will want a ported enclosure tuned to a higher hz. I have found that, in a quad cab dodge, a ported enclosure tuned to about 35hz makes for a very good SQ-based driver system. A guy named Joe Fox makes an enclosure (aptly named the FoxBox) that is tuned so. I installed one in my father's '05 QC Ram3500 with 2 JL Audio 10w3v2 subs powered by a JL Audio 500/1 amplifier and it sounds fantastic.
Another thing you will want to consider is upgrading your "Big 3" when you add your sound system. This includes the positive cable from your alternator to your battery, the negative cable from your engine block to the battery, and the negative cable from the frame to the battery to at least 2 gauge wiring. I actually prefer 1/0 gauge on the Big 3. This will allow a more steady flow of electricity with the added draw and will extend the life of both your alternator and your battery.
Hope this helps.
I'm looking at doing a stereo in my 06. I will be using an Alpine or Pioneer head unit (Alpine sound quality is better, but the built in bluetooth on the Poineer works great) a set of Boston Z6 components in the front doors/dash powered by a JL 300/2 amp, no rear speakers in my regular cab, and a pair of JL 10W3V2 in a sealed enclosure powered by a JL 500/1 amp. I will be running 1/0 gauge power cable the length of the truck for both the amps and my trailer winch, as well as the big 3. A little dynamat or other butyl rubber sound dampening on the doors also goes a long way. I'll be going a bit overboard with mine as I have 120 ft^2 of Raamat for my regular cab
I've got to remove the interior to install the way I'd like, but it should be worth it when done.
07-01-2008, 02:26 PM
#44
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i finally got around to looking all this up, the probox is .6 cu ft per side and JL says .625 cu ft if i'm reading it right (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/11232.pdf) so pretty close but like you said would probably sound better with more, does stuffing the box really help? i've heard yes and no so whats your take? one thing i know i need to do for sure is remount the subs in the box, there are a few screws striped and one side will actually vibrate against the box if turned up to far, thought it was distorting at first, was real glad to realize its just something stupid.
07-02-2008, 05:22 PM
#45
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I really like the MTX Thunderform box.
According to MTX, here are the specs:
Power Handling: 450 Watts RMS
Subwoofer: Two 10" Thunder4500
What amp would be safe to run with this box? Since there are two 10" subs, so I need a 2 channel amp?
I know I can get an amp'd version of the Thunderform, which comes with a 200 watt amp. However, I have heard that the amp supplied with it, does not perform well at all.
According to MTX, here are the specs:
Power Handling: 450 Watts RMS
Subwoofer: Two 10" Thunder4500
What amp would be safe to run with this box? Since there are two 10" subs, so I need a 2 channel amp?
I know I can get an amp'd version of the Thunderform, which comes with a 200 watt amp. However, I have heard that the amp supplied with it, does not perform well at all.