click this link:

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftech/box_wizard.asp

D1=8.5"
D2=2.5"
H1=18"
H2=5"
W = 21.125 (21 1/8")

Using 5/8" wood. Its impossible to get the volume needed using 3/4" mdf for the sub. If you use a 10" sub, you might get away with 3/4"mdf. Dont go any wider on the width...by the time you carpet it, its 21.5". I have to push the box just a hair to open the large side of the storage. I will measure later, but you might be able to push D1 out to 9"

 

3/4" will be plenty unless your goin all out for SPL. Hell you could probably still use 1/2" and do fine with the low wattage system your gonna have. Will save you some room.

 

built mine with 5/8"... The recommended space was 1.0cu ft for the sub. The box was 1.01cu ft minus .07 for the sub = .94cu ft. I thought it was close enough. 1/2" would have been a little easier to get the 1.0cu ft

 

Personally I would not use 1/2" unless it was for 8's or smaller that were weakly powered. 5/8" for 10's. 3/4" for 12's & up. Just my $.02!

 

Everything I've ever built was with 3/4" and they were bullet proof strong. Liquid Nail them and use 2" dry wall screws. Heavy as hell, but strong.

ben

 

Your not gonna get a whole lot of flexing from 1/2" MDF with only 300 RMS, of which prob. only half is goin to be goin at any one time. You will only see peaks of 300 RMS never all the time.

 

That is a big box. I've done them like that before too. Nice work.

ben

 

Thanks, that was my first attempt at box building. It was designed with CAD (solidworks) to have an exact internal volume of 1.25 ft^3, taking into consideration all variables, (woofer displacement etc). Im sure that its not 100 percent perfect due to contruction tolerances but its pretty close to what JL specifies. That combined with the proper tuning of the JL 500/2v2 makes for a really clean sounding system.

 

Not a 3rd gen owner, but not getting much activity over there, so I thought I would post my stealth / budget / maintain full storage and space install I just finished. I know there are better components, but I was on a budget and had bought most of the things a few years back - just had not installed them. For example - I got the sub used for $25 and the rear Focals (new) for $60 from a install guy that was closing down and needed emergency $.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...r-t246778.html

 

Where did you get the bolts for the box & how did you measure to get an exact fit for lining up w/the bracket in the truck? I can easily make the center console box but haven't figured out where to get the bolts. Also, if I mess up on the measurements for the bolts it will be alot of work to redo them. Thanks for your input regardless of what year your truck is. It's still a CTD!!!!

 

I just used T nuts. You drill the hole in the MDF, then hammer the T nuts in. They have prongs that dig into the wood so they dont spin. I always use a little wood glue on the prongs and lip that sits flush against the wood. On the bottom I used long bolts and ran them in through the inside so they act like studs. This makes it easy to just sit the sub box down on the seat brackets then put washer, lock washer and nut on and tighten. There is no way the T Nut will back out when doing it this way. They shoudl be reverse of the direction you tighten. Unlike my couch which I have repaired 5 times the T nut goes into the bottom, then the couch foot threads in the same direction. When it gets tight it starts to back the T Nut out. You want them opposing so as you tighten the bolt or nut it pulls the flanged side into the wood on the opposite side. On the flip up console, I just used bolts threaded into the T Nuts. I just got everything at the hardware store.

Just measure off the factory piece and line up the bolts. The holes are oval on the seat brackets, which makes it nice to adjust before tightening. Sit the top part ontop of the box and then measure for the flip up part and figure out where you want it. I had to move the flip up part back further than the factory console so my cup holder would fit and give me room for the shifter.

 

So are they bolts & the head of the bolt is what bites into the wood or are the nuts w/teeth on them that bite into the wood? TIA

 

Nuts with teeth, I ran the bolt on the top of them from the inside on the ones that mount to the seat brackets with the nuts on the bottom. For the flip up part, the nuts are mounted from the inside and the bolts the outside. Just picture an insert for wood to give the hole threads for the bolt to go into with prongs to keep them from spinning inside the wood. Drill your hole the same diameter as the threaded shaft then either hammer or tighten using a bolt to press them into the wood.

http://www.threeballclimbing.com/install4prongtnuts.htm