I'm running 3 Kicker CompVR 10's and Bostons up front. Powered by a KickerSX 1250.1, for the subs, and a KickerSX 900.4 for the doors. To me, its how much are you willing to spend. Its not just what brand or speakers you get, you also need to have the right guage wire, rca's, deck, some form of sound deadining, grounds, etc, etc.. You get what you pay for.... .02
-drew

 

When i refer to 'true' rms i mean that the amp will put out the same RMS wattage as what the company states or more, at 12.6 volts (this voltage rating is a more real world number but any company that test's between 14.8 and 11.2 is being an honest company) is 'true' RMS there is boats upon boats of companys that say 1200 WATT SUPER MEGA WATTAGE AWESOME AMP and what there refering to is MAX wattage rating, which isnt real world, at all, ever.

 

Got you on that, and that is a true point. The RMS range is what you need to look at, you more than likely will never hit peak rms anyways, if you do its split second.

You will find this error with many stereos in general, many advertise the peak power (the 50x4 and such) but in reality your stereo is really putting about 17 watts x 4 (Alpine in their honesty will advertise the true rms of their stereos) to the system because that is their running rms wattage. So in all actuality wiring component sets and high power speakers to your stereo is not gonna be the most beneficial idea, as you will be drastically underpowering them when you tune it and crank it up. This will lead to premature failure down the road. If you want to use higher power door speakers, you need to put an amp in to power them. You do that, tune them in, and keep your amp clean and free from cluttering up with trash, you will have speakers last you at least twice as long. I learned this the hard way and with the help of many audio-saavy friends have been able to gain some wise information. I don't try to be the best, I just don't half *** things because I know it won't last in the long haul.

Keep that in mind fellas rock on.

 

All this is very true. And usually components (coaxials to) dont 'open up' with the way they sound until you start using an amp and start driving them towards their potential. Its the same way with any speaker really. Ya they might sound good at half power but where you can REALLY tell whether or not a speaker is worth is salt is when you apply full power (not clipping of course) and it doesnt distort.

 

General rule of thumb, match your speakers and amps at an RMS rating. In other words make sure that your amp RMS and speaker RMS are the same or as close as possible. And DON'T GO CHEAP! You get what you pay for. Now, don't spend more than you can afford, but maybe be patient,wait a while and save up. In the business we refer MAX power to our ILS rating. In other words, the product might produce the MAX power If Lightning Strikes it. These guys are right, the amp might create the listed MAX power but not constant or at good quality.

 

I actually like to get an amp that is slightly overrated (hundred watts or so, which isnt to much) because then you have headroom, and you tend to have a lower noise floor with headroom than an amp running at full RMS.

 

Agreed, you get a higher power amp and tune it to where its not putting a full load on the amp. Saves the amp in the long run, keeps it from overheating or frying circuits and your outputs, and puts out a nice clean, effecient sound.

 

True!

 

Take a look at the Dynaudio System 242 components, also the MTX TR series subs do a very good job.

http://www.dynaudio.com/eng/auto/esotec/242.php

http://www.mtx.com/caraudio/products...ndexTRound.cfm

 

This thread is right up my alley. I'm finally getting around to installing a system in my truck -- personal present for finally getting my degree. Anyways, I haven't done stereo stuff in probably 10 years or more. Used to do it a bunch in high school on the side.

I'm thinking of a budget of about $2500, and the includes everything. I want a double din head unit with nav and dvd for sure, was thinking about the Kenwood DNX6140. I like Kenwood, and this unit has a volume ****, which is another thing I like. I hate buttons for volume.

Other than that, I'm beyond the days of needing to shake the paint off the vehicle. So, a single 10" or 12" sub would do fine. I want to put it behind the drive side rear seat, and maintain the storage behind the rest of the back seat. Amp placement will be an issue that I haven't figured out.

I'd also like components. Just four speakers in the doors will work fine, but I'd like quality. I like hearing the music how it was meant to be heard.

Anyone care to build out my system within the budget? I'm open to ideas and looking for guidance.

ben

 

Well for $2500 you get a hell of a system. To bad you dont have more room to work with as you could put some pretty amazing subs in but thats ok we will just have to go with a slammin front end (which is never a bad thing)

Ok first thing is first HU if you want nav and all that fancy stuff go ahead and get the kenwood, im not very fond of those types of HU's just because there not my thing but more power to ya.

2) Sound deadning- If you want your music to be heard the way it was supposed to get a good amount of this and put it on your doors. It will actually help with road noise and other things as well. Second skin, damplifier are all good choices and i believe second skin is actually a better sound deadner than dynamat. dynamat is just expensive, its good but expensive.

3) now to my favorite part, components, these are gonna require a lil bit more feedback from you in order to guess and i stress guess because NO ONE knows what will sound good except you. So things that you need to go listen to is whether or not you like you system to be really upfront and loud or laidback and easy, midbass punchy or mellow, tweeter bright or smooth, but heres what i can recommend for components
CDT:http://www.woofersetc.com/p3084/ES07...ent-System.htm
These will give you a soft tweeter and dont look like they would be to deep of a mounting depth.
Dynaudio:http://www.woofersetc.com/p5545/Esot...t-Speakers.htm
Also a soft tweeter.
Alpine: Contrary to their price these alpines are very good. Not as good as these others maybe but still hold there own. http://www.woofersetc.com/p6252/SPX1...ker-System.htm
Focal: http://www.woofersetc.com/p7914/165K...ent-System.htm These will give you a brighter sounding tweeter.
Image Dynamics: http://www.woofersetc.com/p5712/XS65...ent-System.htm
Also a very good system for the money.
Moral:http://www.woofersetc.com/p4755/ELAT...ent-System.htm
I listed all 2way components just because i didnt know how up to a 3 way component system you would be willing to go.
Amps: Really any type of amp that puts out its rated RMS will do just fine. Since your on a space constraint i would say maybe go with the PDX series from Alpine.
Subs: Since you will have some killer components up front and your sub is gonna only be needin to take up the lower frequencies i would say just go with a slim fit from kicker or eclipse.

 

That is a lot of information. Thanks for putting that together.

I listen to everything except for Country. If I had to place emphasis on one end of the spectrum I'd say I'm a bass lover. I hear the drums or the bass whenever I listen to music as opposed to the guitar, etc. But, I still like a well balanced system, kind of like a movie theater experience. Nothing overpowering anything else if you know what I mean. I can appreciate a really hard hitting bass setup, but where the hell is the rest of the sounds on the track. LOL

So, soft tweets is definately more to my liking. I once had a system in my 87 Monte Carlo SS that would make your ears bleed while listening to NIN loud. It was cool, but also annoying.

I'll check out the links you provided. Thanks again.

ben

 

I just finished building a box for a single 12 taht goes behind the drivers side back seat. Its 1.03cu ft without the sub. Im doing the same thing as you are...but slowly on a way smaller budget


It fits perfectly and still allows to access the storage behind the wide seat in the back.


The drivers back seat still reclines but not all the way...its 1 click up from all the way back. Here are some pics. The wide seat is fully reclined


Here is the whole box ... I know the carpet lines arent perfect on the side...ah well, first time to carpet a box...would have been easy if it was a rectangle.


Raam Mat is a great sound deadening product. Its cheaper than Dynamat and does about the same job. Ifyou are really looking to do some sound deadening, google "sound deadener showdown". It compares the different types of sound deadener, cost and quality.

 

Do you have any demonsions so that I could easily rebuild the box? I can do my own work and make something similar, but demonsions would save me some time.

I once built a box for two 12" Kick subs for a friends Volkswagon pickup back in high school. That box had more angles and notches to fit around things like the hump in the middle, seat belt returns, etc. It fit like a glove, literally. Someone broke into his truck and tried to steal his system, but couldn't get it out. LOL.

ben

 

Here is a couple of shots of the box I made for my mega, 2 12's with amps mounted on box