Well I did this mod the other day. Used a single ball valve on the top heater hose. Seems cooler in the cab for sure, but I will do a test with the meter for actual temp delta. Another note, I have no change in water temp on the dash gauge. I have been driving it for a couple of days now when the ambient air temps are high 90s and no prob yet.

 

You will see a 2-3 degree temp drop at the dash outlets. Too bad (for pistons 5&6) the engine temp gauge only shows average temp as indicated at the coolant sensor.

 

I want to see your data for piston 5 & 6 temps increase and cite some specific failures due to this mod.

I cannot believe this engine (ISB) was engineered to function soley around the dodge heater core. I will call Cummins Atlantic and see what they say about it.

 

You do that!

And as far as the engineering goes, you got it bass ackwards. Cummins had nothing to do with it. Dodge took advantage of tapping the hottest water for the heater and adding additional flow to the back of the block at the same time, killing two birds with one stone, as 'twere.

But I don't have any data to support that, and don't normally provide it to demanding people anyways even if I did.

 

Then it sounds to me that you provide misinformation and that is just not fair to the members of DTR. We are all here to help one another...

 

We'll be waiting to hear what Cummins Atlanta has to say about it.

 

'sits back and grabs some pretzels and a cold one for this'

 

Where's the popcorn smiley?

 

I think that is on another forum....

 

Got my and waiting to see how this turns out

 

So if it does hinder flow by blocking it off back there, why not just do the mod like Opies bypass? And redirect the flow to the radiator hose, and you can still block off the hose at the heater core with little to no risks of what you described?

 

That's a good way to do it. I shut oiff the heater core during the summer using a 3-way valve:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_36.JPG

Otherwise it flows out both back head ports to both the filter and heater:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_15.JPG

 

Crap! I did the mod to my truck the other day before finding the rest of this thread. I was going off a link to the first page or two of it. Now I guess I need to go rig up a bypass. Maybe next week. For now I'll just leave the valves open, I guess.

 

Late model Ford Rangers use a 3 port 5/8 heater control valve it is a bypassing valve, unfortunately it is vacuum operated, But if your truck is equipped with a Jacobs vacuum operated exhaust brake one could tap into that vacuum source and run a vacuum solenoid operated by your a/c compressor clutch trigger or your recirculation door servo with a relay because the servo will be controlled by the ground lead from the HVAC Module... Just thinking!!! I will have to confirm the wiring in Mitchell schem.

Or one could just operate it manually like a ball valve...

 

Do you know which specifically which year model? Since I know that's the first thing they'll ask at Auto Zone.

For a vacuum operated solenoid, I figured the best approach might be to take vacuum from the recirc door. This way the valve(s) close on Max A/C, but open on all other modes automatically.