will that fitting even be able to be screwed in the head with the valve cover in the way?

 

It's going to need a bushing or adapter anyway, so I figure a 45deg with whatever bushing needed to mate it up will do the trick. Install the 45, then the valve on top of it.

 

thats not a bad idea.

 

http://www.tradekey.com/product_view/id/158125.htm that looks kinda cool...

 

That's looking good, now if we can just find one with threaded or barbed ends.

 

I've been studying how Ace has his bypass & valves installed.

We know that there is really high pressure at the back of the head that can blow the rear frost plug out the back of the block.
If you ignore Ace's coolant filter he is simply routing coolent flow from the plug at the back of the head into the heater core return to the water pump.

This sounds fine but I wonder if that high pressure plus the return flow from the heater core is causing an over volume into the water pump. Especially when the valve is closed.
This could pressurize back to the heater core which is not a good thing.

Ace's method is so simple & would seem to relieve pressure from the rear of the block as do the Opie and Wicked Diesel's bypass's.
Even though the coolant is still bypassed "pre-thermostat", unlike the other bypass's which bypass the coolant "post thermostat" into the radiator. .

Any thoughts..Joe

 

You would have to know exactly what the coolant paths inside the head are to say for sure, one way or the other. The fact that they use plain-jane heater hose on the heater core lines suggests to me this is not an issue, because those ports on the back of the head are within inches of each other. Why doesn't the heater hose blow out before the freeze plug?

Pressure is resistance to flow. There's a magic formula somewhere explaining the point at which flow volume modulates pressure in this particular system. We know there's an unsafe level for the freeze plugs in some high rpm scenarios. There appears to be a safe level somewhere. Maybe Opie knows it. maybe he's just guessing like the rest of us, who knows?

This is all anecdotal evidence from experimentation by various people as far as I can tell. Nothing scientific about it at all. Others may disagree. If so, I'd like to hear from them. But you know how people are about their "trade secrets" in this business.

Any additional flow pushes the formula your particular setup is running in the right direction. Any less flow is bad, no matter how you slice it. I've run my setup WOT to redline many times. The heater core hasn't blown out. Yet. I'm pretty sure the hose will let go before the core. Just guessing.

 

Not sure how big of an issue this would be. It's on the draw (suction) side of the water pump so there will some drop in pressure (once the thermostat opens).

Only question I have is the heater performance since there is an alternate flow path. Which may not pose a problem for owners living in the desert or deep south.

Now I will say this mod is probably ok for stock or mild HP engines. If going higher (500+) definately go with the Opie or Wicked Diesels bypass kit.

MikeyB

 

The heater actually seemed to perform better the few times I used it while it was still cold earlier this year after I put the bypass filter on. I suspect (key word) it has something to do with the way the system is designed with higher volume potential on the suction side than the flow potential which exists out of those head ports and whatever relationship that has with flow through the heater core pulling more through the heater return line. Maybe the flow rate through theater core is increased as well? Dunno.

 

Here it is....



MikeyB

 

I'm setting mine up to bypass through both rear head ports when the heater core is shut off.

 

ttt

 

Been a while since anyone has posted to this thread so just wanted to see how it was working for everyone. I did this mod back in July of 08. I did the one shut off valve to the heater core as posted on the first page of this thread and have had no problems. I have an 06 with the 5.9.
This has been the best thing I've done for my truck and for my comfort.

 

Thank you very much for posting. I have not done it yet but was wondering how you guys were doing. Guess its about time I get it done. Also wonder if MikeyB was happy with the valve he used (took up less space than a ball valve) or if the ball valve is the way to go.

 

Mine has three ball valves, and it does consume a little bit of space.. I think I posted a pic on here sometime ago.