You mean like a separate electrical fan right? I do have an extra one lying around. I may just have to try it and see if there is a temp change. Keeping extra air flow over the condenser should help keep the pressure and temp of the R134A down.

 

Yeap, the ones like are in this thread. They can only be 2" deep. Not enough room for anything thicker. With the fan you can add a little more R134a to the system to make it work even better.

https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...d-t245620.html

 

I couldn't bear to read through 26 pages, 12 is enough, but good info.

Dan,
Are you talking about this one?

"HydroPEX H080750 - 3/4" PEX x 3/4" PEX Ball Valve "
http://www.pexsupply.com/HydroPEX-H0...alve-3772000-p


Probably need a couple Tees too...
http://www.pexsupply.com/HydroPEX-H0...-Tee-3727000-p


Pic of the 3/4" valve....

 

ok so if you do this mod and want more cooling to the backside of the motor you could take out the plug in the back of the motor and tie that into the retun along with 2 valves right? t off the retun in other words and run a line from cylinder 6 correct. i also want to add a coolant filter in here.

 

Yes, you can tap off the #6 coolant plug on the head for the coolant filter. Checkout Ace's photos (thread #353) for his setup.

MikeyB

 

so what you do is close the valves off and this is fine where does the coolant go then? instead of going to the heater core it just goes farther forward in the motor to the thermostat housing?

 

on the 6.7, it goes out the back of the motor, then you install a tee fitting and goes over to the turbo. so your only removing the heater core when the valve is closed. not sure on the 5.9.

 

MAybe my photos will help. .

all these parts used plus more hose clamps.




All those parts make this.



works good for me.

 

I decided to go ahead and do a coolant bypass for the #6 cylinder. It's cheap and easy to do so why not.

A few parts are needed. Several fittings, hose and hose clamps.

Dorman 56356 5/8" nipple/ 1/2" NPT fitting
Dorman 56387 5/8" Tee fitting (metal)

5/8" heater hose and 4 1.25" hose clamps.

Only problem is the 5/8" metal Tee fitting is hard to find at the autoparts stores and so I ended up ordering it. Everybody has the plastic version but I worried about durability from the heat sitting above the exhaust manifold and turbo.

So now I wait for the fitting to come in for the installation.

MikeyB

 

I paid about $40 for the two T fittings shipped, and they were a PAIN to locate. .

 

A simpler, and maybe a little cheaper would be to use a bypass valve. I'm sure someone has suggested this, but 25 pages is too much for me to look at...

 

Rockauto has the fitting for less than $7. I went ahead and placed a order with them since I needed some stuff for the Magnum.

MikeyB

 

One of the members did post about a bypass valve assembly for a Ford. My only concern with this is it's made from plastic, and the long term durability from the heat generated from being near the exhaust manifold and turbo.

MikeyB

 

Here's a brass one for under $12. Now the fittings aren't right, and you would have to chase down clamps and ends to place hose on, but this would be simpler and the only thing you would then bypass would be the heater core, keeping the original flow to the block. Of course, I am better pointing theory than doing it...
http://store.silverlakemarine.com/si...p?ITEM=5337463

 

Yaaay!

Now I have a reason to go back and re-visit this. Maybe the stock fitting will not be going back in after all...