thanx for the info and links Bronco, I ordered the 5/8 brass barb fitting this morning, so now i will play the waiting game. .

 

Sorry i didn't post up sooner, man. $40 seems absurd for 2 little $5 fittings.

 

They were 15.61 X 2+7.50 shipping = $39.xx eh whats done is done, and it will be moveable to the next CTD I purchase. I even called and tried to work the student/ PTK memeber discounts but to no avail.

Now if these parts show up and are incorrect I might go bonkers. .

 

I pulled blower motor and resistor out to attempt to access one of the cores. Which core is next to the blower motor??

 

I look forward to doing this mod. I know that the core has some heat transfer b/c I can not use the vent function above 60 degrees without the cab becoming uncomfortable. This has been the case with several Dodge/Jeep vehicles over the last 15 years. My only concern is what to do at night when the temps fall. Will it become to cool or fog the windows with no control of heat?

Bryan

 

Posm,

The A/C does a much better job of defogging than having heat only. The only issue I see if up in the mountains or way up north with the temps still getting into the 40-50's at night during the summer months.
I'll be closing the valve off this weekend since summer has arrived in SE Texas and to be opened in October.

MikeyB

 

here in South Texas, the spring temps can easily swing 30-40 degrees between night and day. i have popped the hood several times to open or close the valves when i needed to. dollar for dollar, this is about the best mod i have done to my truck (outside of removing the rear air diverters). i hate sweating when i don't have to. when i installed the valves, i still had my egr cooler in place and that made the install a bit more difficult due to limited space. now that the egr cooler is gone, i can literally open the hood and open or close all valves in maybe 15-20 seconds. i can reach all 3 valves standing on the ground and my hand can get right to them with that cooler gone!

 

+1 on Harbor Freight. Think about it-- that "harbor" is where they deliver the cheapest Chinese junk they can find.


Since the water pump isn't positive displacement, heater core pressure exposure shouldn't be a major issue.



One thing every engineer knows is that there's no free lunch. If you a reducing water flow out that point, then there has to be a corresponding water flow change somewhere else.

I don't think a temp change to the engine is occurring in any significant amount. That coolant location isn't chosen at random. The coolant is taken off the head at that point because it's already circulated though the hot parts and done its job. It also makes the heater more effective this way.

I'd want to see some circulation continue to the heater core. A restriction would be appropriate imo, but not a blockoff.



Anyway, here's a hint for you guys that are doing this mod-- guard against moldy, stinky A/C by remembering to crank the temp to warm for a little bit before shutting down. Just to knock some chill out of the ducting.

If you run super-cold A/C through the ducts for extended periods and then shutdown, you'll typically have condensation, then mold form in the ducts, which will give you stinky A/C.

jh

 

Y'all realize people are buying $500 regulators from some guy named Opie, cobbing together plumbing to another head port there for increased flow out the back of the block to prevent blowing freeze plugs at high rpm and improve cooling for cyl's 5&6, right?

 

Sooooooo.....

Has anyone had any experience with their dealer and warranty issues? I have read all of the posts and seems like something to be done, when I get back from this hot little country.

Thanks,

Hal

 

Bump, bump, bump

 

Wolf, since your truck is a 6.7L it's a little more involved since the turbo is watercooled and is being feed by the same heater line.

Check with Mastercaster since he has a 6.7 and if he had any warranty service since the installation.

MikeyB

 

I decided to go ahead and try this, since the Ac isn't as strong as I'd like and I already had a bypass installed there for a coolant filter. I got a high heat/pressure rated valve from McMaster Carr with a valve orifice that appears to be only slightly larger than the the orifice in the stock block fitting. The handle is removable, allowing it to replace the stock fitting directly on the block:

http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_30.JPG
http://stuff.is-a-geek.net/PhotoAlbu...ics/CRD_31.JPG

 

Ace, that's a clean install.. The valve is solidly mounted & no additional splices/screw clamps required.

Just a small note about the firewall insulation sagging & resting on the heater hoses...

What I did was to drill 2 small evenly spaced holes thru the insulation & firewall & push in 2 small plastic interior panel plugs to hold it in place.
I drilled the holes horizontally in the vertical plane of the firewall. They will never fall out, problem solved...

...Joe

 

Is anyone using the 2-way brass diverter valves I saw posted earlier? Seems that would make it alot simpler to be able to have coolant flowing either thru the heater or bypassing it with out additional "T" fittings which would be extra clamps and possible sources of leaks. Would look cleaner if they will work/less plumbing. What size and where to purchase?
Thanks, and a great thread.
Tony