Ok, maybe this is what my problem is? I have noticed lately that on some days the AC will blow nothing but hot air for 20-40 mintues, then start cooling, the drivers vents get cool air first, then the passenger side cools. Any ideals if the shut off valve would help?

 

MOAGGIE,
I would check the freon level. But with the shutoff valve mod being around $10 it wouldn't hurt to try it too.

MikeyB

 

Here's the link to Dodge Talk forum.
http://www.dodgetalk.com/forums/showthread.php?t=210752

MikeyB

 

just curious if anyone has done this on the 6.7, and if it is the same process. i don't think the hose is in hte same spot.

 

No i have not done this mod yet. Been thinking about it for a year now and just don't have the time. I guess I just need to make time and git r dun. MikeyB has a great idea and glad to see someone doing it. I know when it started to get warm out when I was driving over the road, I was always complaining about the AC not working well and then remembered DUH, shut the water off. The big trucks have 2 valves to shut off both the pressure and return sides. If you only do the pressure, heat will conduct thru the return hose and still have heated water. To be totally efficient, shut off both the pressure and return hoses. I think I am going to home depot now to get the ball valves. Does anyone know the hose size? is it 3/4" ID?

 

I believe it's 5/8".

Next I'll remember to check the return line temp. If it's at or near operating temperature I'll install a valve for the that line too.

MikeyB

 

Thanks Mikey. I am going to Home Depot and going to get the goodies to do the mod and buy ant killer! LOL

 

Just got back from Home Depot with the goodies. I am going to shut both the return and pressure down with a 1/2" brass ball valve. will take pics and let ya'll know when i git r dun. I have been riding the bike for the last couple weeks and have only had to buy diesel 1 time! Not buying fuel is paying for the bike!

 

Subscribing.

Also, F150 owners are doing this too... My buddy was just mentioning it to me the other day.

I also second putting valves on both the intake and return lines.

 

one thing to remember is upon completing the mod, make sure you have the valves open and start the truck, make sure there are no leaks, cycle the heater on/off for a bit to get rid of ANY air pockets. Don't want to have an air pocket in there and then come winter, open the valves and be a bit low on coolant.

 

They do this on motorhomes also.

 

Here are the parts I just bought @ home depot.

2- 1/2" brass quarter turn ball valves
4- 1/2" to 5/8" nipples

had the 4 hose clamps in the shop

I have been wanting a hose cutter to make straight cuts for a long time. Just ended up buying one while I was there. Going to do the mod as soon as the thing cools down. had to drive it to Home Depot since it was raining out.

will post pics of the mod as I go. before during and after and post results. I will stop by a buddy's shop and get a AC thermometer and post before and after temps

 

Hey Chris, I just got back from lowes for the same setup, should I do both lines? I only shut off the supply and not the return. ****.

 

ya do the return as well. I called and chatted with my old man and he went out and looked at the Kenworth and they have both lines capped off. I remembered that my Pete was the same way. Want me to come over and help?

 

Do you think it will hurt the heater core if no coolant flushing it constantly therefore causing corrosions? If not, I was thinking if I installing two normally open electric valve and run a relay to tap into the A/C compressor. When you turn on your A/C, the valve closes and no heat into the cab. Where can I get an electric valve to fit the heater hose?