Hi,
I'm looking at a 2003 Ram Diesel with 143,000 miles and 4x4. What are the known problem areas with this truck??

 

Biggest problems with the 03-04.5 was the canister mounted fuel pump that goes bad and ball joints.

Other than that, as long as you keep up good maintenance and use good fuel, you should not be having a problem.

 

Lift pumps, front end (ball joints, unit bearings, steering components), injectors, if it has an NV5600 the factory fill was about 1 qt lower than needed for the front input bearing to get lubricated properly on a long uphill run, all the U-joints (axle and driveshaft) are 'prementantly lubricated' from the factory, the HVAC dampers have issues (Search for 'heater treater' for more info)

even with all that I have never been stranded.

 

Also the AC dampers and linkage breaking. Seems like in 03 when Dodge went from vacuum to electric actuators they got into territory they knew nothing about. Early 03s have a steel alternator bracket that can crack and some had driveline and PS hose vibrations. Some were shipped with low diff lube and Dodge got to buy a lot of those repairs. Craig

 

Nothing really transmission related?? I don't intend on pulling anything with the truck.

 

Well, Dodge didn't have the greatest reputation for their CTD autos until the 07.5s. 03 was the switch from the 47re to the 48re and the 48re was still way less than bulletproof - it's still a matter of luck. All my friends with 47re autos had them beefed up before they did power mods and they had no problems, before or after. They also put in better convertors. One friend put a lot of miles on a stock 93 CTD/47re auto and he said they are basically a 100k trans, between rebuilds. Later 03s (HO engines) got the 48re which are a little stronger. I've heard of 47res going many 100k miles with really good service and 48res that didn't make it the first 100k. Sometimes autos act up cold but not when hot - cold shrunken seals that expand and seal when they warm up. If I test drove a used auto, I'd run it as hard as possible cold AND hot and if it did anything wrong at all, I'd walk away. Also pull the dipstick and if the fluid is brown and burnt... walk away. Craig

 

A couple other little things. The 03 had a stamped metal alternator bracket that was prone to crack. There were threads about weather stripping leaks around the door. There was also an upgrade to the pressure supply line to the hydrobooster to cure a buzz/vibration in the wheel/pedals that would happen right at 2000 RPM.

Otherwise, the normal stuff...

 

Very interesting, I have a 03 2wd, so far so good, (besides the AC)....


Smitty

 

My 03 has been good to me; 123K, but it's time for balljoints; gonna do the ujoints and hub bearing units at the same time

 

160k on mine here is what i have had to fix. Lift Pump at 85k. Blender door issue w/ HVAC started in late 05 and was a daily driver. Fixed it and it broke again. Now not a daily drive but not because of issues. 95k injectors started failing (ULSD came out) and they were almost shot at 145k. Symptoms-hard starts, blue/white smoke at idle cold, brown haze at idle warm, misfires, fuel mileage decrease and loud injector rattle(it was almost as loud as my 99). Had them rebuilt by industrial injection. Grab handled on drivers side broke around 2006, I weigh about 230lbs, also lost the lights on the HVAC controler. Replaced ujoint on drivers side in the front axles at 145k. Ujoints in drive shaft at 156K. Still on the original rear breaks. Shocks at 70K, thery were shot by 40k, just to lazy to replace until the 70k mark. Replacements made it about 50k before breaking and traction troubles began. 5 speed over hauled at 158K. 5th gear nut issue with towning. Never solved by factory like they claimed. The bearings and syncro weren't shot but the maind shaft at the 5th gear sections was so had over hauled while shaft was out. If i wasn't towning the RV might have made it to 200k but maybe not due the TST. TST was installed at 15k miles. Between tranny(again more my fault and only realted to 5 speeds) injectors, u-joints cost me about $6k. Truck is paid for. that 6k should get me at least another 100k miles probably more. so cheaper than a new truck. The dodge parts are the weaklink. Other thant he injectors (againa blame dodge and the govt on that one) no troubles with the Cummins. I say go for it. Especially if any of this stuff has aleady been done. Lots of people sell a truck they just put money into thinking the truck is going to be nothing but trouble and you end up with a truck with fresh updates that will likely have no troubles at all. Get something that actually is a water seperator and filters to the 2 micorn to save your injectors.

 

127K on mine. Quite a bit of it towing and I'm very happy so far! Original everything, except tires replaced at 70k, brakes at 80K, and water pump/thermostat at 100K. Dash started cracking in 2009 (put a cover on which works for me). Put an AirDog lift pump at 100K, not because mine wasn't working, just a preventative measure. Finally, AC issues around 100K, passenger side not cooling (blender door maybe) and it needs freon every few months.

 

I've replaced the ball joints, power steering unit, fuel pump and radio (all under warranty), rear driveline u-joints and a front axle u-joint. Other than that just tires, shocks, fuel and maintenance are my only costs. I've got the 47RE and tow heavy and often- it's holding up fine with regular service by the book. Just one more payment to go! 2003s are great trucks.

Edit: Also installed a Modulite.