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2" level kit and 35" tires on stock wheels

Old Feb 1, 2011 | 02:38 PM
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Arrow 2" level kit and 35" tires on stock wheels

Hey guys,

I think it is long past due for me to upgrade the meats. Tired of getting stuck in the desert towing my TT with the stock 265's.

I'm looking for any suggestion or input from the experienced and wise on here. I pretty much use my rig for towing 75% of the time and I go to the desert, mountains, and sand with my toys... I have what's in my sig and 3.73's with only 11K miles on the truck...

Last 2 times out, I got stuck - pulled out by Tahoe , and almost stuck the next time.

I'm thinking to stick with the stock chrome clad wheels for now and I have mud flaps. So, does going with a 2" level kit and 35 x 12.50 x 17 make sense?

I'm thinking of BFG KM'2's. Not sure if they come in load range E at this moment. Any suggstions on the leveling kit, tires, size? I'd like to upgrade the shocks as well (Bilsteins?). Also, can I get any $ anywhere for my stock Michelins that look brand new still?

TIA.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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If you're going to retain the stock wheels, I'd skip the leveling kit.....unless you want to induce the dreaded death wobble.

With LT35X12.50R17's on OEM offset wheels, you'll only experience minor lock-to-lock rubbing.

My truck is stock suspension and the LT305/60R20's are about 34.6" OD and I don't rub any at all.



A friend of mine runs some LT35X12.50R17 Mastercraft Courser C/T's on his 2006 RAM 2500 MegaCab.....stock suspension as well.

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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 05:33 PM
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I certainly don't want any death wobble! I was thinking of the Kore kit with VR coils and Bilsteins...

http://www.koreraceshop.com/kore-hp-...08-diesel.aspx
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:04 PM
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My truck has had 35's on it with the leveling kit for over 3 years now and NO trouble at all and I to have mudflaps haha. The mickey thompson MTZ have been by far the best tire I have ever bought. 3 years on these tires and still look great over 1/2 tread.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 06:14 PM
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Nice trucks, by the way guys. I wish I could decide and pick a set of rims too, but at this point just looking to upgrade the tires and any suspension to accomodate the larger sizes possible.

I like those aluminum stockers better than my steel chrome clads for sure.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by mega-engr
I like those aluminum stockers better than my steel chrome clads for sure.
I would have *thought* with your truck being an SLT that it would have been equipped with the forged alloys...........
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 08:01 PM
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You can keep it totally stock and put 33's on it.
Something like an E-rated BFG All-Terrain LT285/70R17 (technically 32.8 inches)

You won't have the problem of getting stuck, and you also won't negatively affect your gearing as much as 35's.
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 08:57 PM
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From: misplaced Idahoan stuck in Albuquerque, Roughneckin on RIG 270
our shop truck is a 06 quad cab, 2" leveling kit, 35" toyo MT's and never had any issues and on stock wheels
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gsbrockman
I would have *thought* with your truck being an SLT that it would have been equipped with the forged alloys...........
Well, I thought maybe it was a 2500 - 3500 thing where the steel was heavier duty or something... I guess the aluminum and steel have the samre, or similiar, weight ratings and can be had on either? If so, then ya I wish I had the forged alloys.

Does anyone get any $ for trading in their fairly new stock tires to the tire shop for some better ones? Or, do I just have to try and sell them myself?
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Old Feb 1, 2011 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mega-engr
Well, I thought maybe it was a 2500 - 3500 thing where the steel was heavier duty or something... I guess the aluminum and steel have the samre, or similiar, weight ratings and can be had on either? If so, then ya I wish I had the forged alloys.

Does anyone get any $ for trading in their fairly new stock tires to the tire shop for some better ones? Or, do I just have to try and sell them myself?
Still have the window sticker???? I would hope that the dealer did not pull a switch-a-roo on your wheels. The window sticker should clarify original wheel type.

As for selling the old tires......get some accurate tread depth measurements and run'em in the DTR classifieds. I'd try to sell locally personally, just to avoid dealing with shipping charges.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 12:29 PM
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I have a friend who has a 2005 Power Wagon that came with the aluminum wheels that he has just sitting around (because he upgraded the style of his wheels and traded back the tires that came on them which I believe were 285's originally). I think that I will take those rims off his hands and get some 33's or 35" (still deciding on size and what tire), and see how they fit and then think about leveling...
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 02:59 PM
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Hey good luck with that and keep us informed. Tires is what makes the truck so spend wisely. And post some pictures everyone loves those.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 03:22 PM
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Ya, thanks! So many tires, styles, and sizes. Yikes!

I'm would love to start another conflab over what tire is best, but I don't know if I can handle it .

I'm taking a look at some Nitto Trail Grappler MT's that seem pretty nice (and proobably spendy) in the 295/70R17E size specified for 7 to 8.5 inch rim widths.

Anyone know the width of my stock steels or the stock forged alloys?
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 05:12 PM
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17x8.

The ST wheels (plain-jane silver wheels) are 17x7.

I would not sweat running any tire that called for an 8.5" wide wheel.....that would really be splitting hairs IMO.
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Old Feb 2, 2011 | 05:30 PM
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Ya, it seems that most 35" tires are calling for 8.5" wide minimum. The P metric ones say 7.5" to 8" wide minimum...

Looks like the Nitto TG-MT 295/70's (619 revs/mile - 33.54" OD) compared to the stock Michelin 265/70's (657 revs/mile) are about a 5.8% change...
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