at one timeI was wondering why there we're two batteries, your a bucket of information! Lol thanks

 

Got A LOT of info on these trucks. I currently service 4... An 06 ram1500 5.7L hemi, 07.5 ram3500 mega cab 2wd, 6.7L, h&s black max. 08 dodge ram 3500 cab and chassis, 4X4, 6.7L, Aisin auto h&s mini maxx tuned (this truck is a farm truck, w a deweze bed, and a cattle feeder. The over head refill style feeder caused excess feed to blow down the windshield and into the cowl. From there it went into the hvac box, via the fresh air inlet, and clogged the evap core. Highlights the fact that dodge has no cabin filter, or recirc filter.).. 99 dodge ram2500 5.9L 24v 2wd, 5sp stnd, ext cab, long bed. The 08 is currently torn down in my driveway, awaiting elec fans from eBay...

 

Also, the flaws in the system are quite clear to me. The gap in between the radiator and the condenser is too great for the fan Clutch to efficiently pull heat off of the condenser. Especially w the power steering cooler, trans cooler, oil cooler, and inter cooler in between. This also has caused a problem w debris (grass and other fibrous plants and seed hulls found in a pasture) being sucked down in front of the radiator, this further obstructing flow over the condenser. People usually don't look at this, but it alone will cause your ac to hit ridiculously high pressures. As well as your engine to run hot. The easy remedy for this is to unbolt the condenser, trans cooler, inter cooler, and oil cooler.. This should expose the face of the radiator, and you should be able to just folt unbolted accessories back far enough to pressure wash through the radiator to clear debris. The most efficient way is to completely remove the radiator. This has been THE BIGGEST issue on these trucks. I was quite shocked that noone has wrote about it yet. Or maybe I just didn't see it. I will be doing a custom elec fan install on the 08 cab and chassis. I didn't recommend the customer go with the flexalite, because of the 18,000 disclaimer. It only flows 5,000cfm. The magazine article I read on it stated they tried to get the truck to heat up, but the fans never fell behind. This farm truck w the deweze weighs over 11,000lbs at the feed scales. And due in part to the biggest ranch hand bumper you can get, the stock setup can't keep up. Even w the rad freshly cleaned, as well as all the cooler acc and the condenser freshly cleaned. So this is my remedy. I have 4 12inch fans coming from eBay that I will use to pull heat through the rad. They are rated at 1730cfm ea, and draw 12.7a ea. and then I have two 10in fans that will push through the condenser rated at 1550cfm ea, and draw 10a ea. I ordered a derale temp switch w a "radiator hose style probe" which will be mounted in the fins of the rad. The condenser will be wired into the ac clutch. This will rated at 10,020cfm... Overkill? Maybe. Guarantee? Closest thing to it... All of the fans could draw 52 amps combined, so I have ordered a 60 breaker off of eBay, as well as solenoids, and 4awg wire for power supply.

 

Also, the heater treater replacement parts are a no brainer. All steel. Great price! They say you can do the recirc door through the glove box opening. But it just wasn't an option for me. I have installed them in the 1500, and both 3500's, and it is way easier to pull the dash back. I can give inst if needed, but its a pretty easy dash to remove. I will also be putting the parallel flow condenser on the cab and chassis for the first time. And I will let you know if I can see a sign diff in performance.

 

This was back in 2008 when I first started looking into the problem. I had already damaged the comressor due to high pressures related to the bad configuration of the condensor coil which is a well documented problem.

2008, I thought I was going to fix it, not the case. The fan and adding freon was only a temporary fix.

I did fix the pressure issue with fan. But the damage was already done to the compressor.

Not long after this (2009), I finally had to replace the compressor. It stopped cooling all together. When I pulled the orifice tube, it was full of metal shavings. I figure the damage had already been done before I installed the fan. I say this because since I replaced the compressor, I have had ZERO issues with my A/C. I just wanted to drag this back up top and let everyone know how mine is holding up 4 years later. My high side pressure never gets over 250 now. Here's a pic of the fan from Summit installed.

 

Wow interesting read on orfice tube size!

Question is on condenser (2006?) My compressor seals have been leaking for approx. 1 year and last year just added Freon as needed over summer.. issue did get worse and worse lol.. Now bought following:

2004.5 48RE truck

have new denso compressor
dyer
seals
valves
new liquid line (BUT have no idea if new orfice size so I will get another by part number.. Got it online at Rockauto )
evaporator was changed 1.5 years ago by me

Do I still need to order a 2006 condenser?? ** does it have to be factory condenser?? Not from say rockauto??

EDITED INSERT:

the 2006 parts is a 2006 condenser going to match up with the 2004.5 lines?? Nothing else needed other then updated 2006 orfice tube l

 

I have had nothing but problems with my A/C in my truck, I have taken the dash and the air box out and replaced all the doors with the heater treater kit 2 yrs ago, but the passenger side still bows warmer and the truck takes foresver to cool down. I have taken the truck to get the A/C charged 3 times in the past year and a half so obviously there is a leak but everytime I take it in to charge they say there is no leak, so last time I had them change both the schrader valves and yet again it blew ice cold for about 3 months now its blowing hot again. Is there anything anyone could thing of that could be leaking that they dont check or see?

 

Originally Posted by Dixie Chopper
OK, here it is....

Conditions before -
Driver's side - cold all the time. 44 deg on 95 deg. day.
Passenger - vents blowing hot(90 deg) on start up. Would get a blast of hot air on take off for the first 20-30 mins. Would cool off after 30-45 minutes.
Conditions after electric fan install -
Driver's - same
Passenger - 10-15 degrees cooler than before but still the same issues just not as hot.-
Next thing I did was check the freon. Low side 12 psi, High side 150 psi. I charged one 12 oz. can which brought it up to 32 and 215. The freon made a larger difference than the fan on the passenger side temps. It seems to me that the freon had a bigger impact but I think it was a combination of both.

If the driver side is COLD and the passenger side is WARM then the system is a little (1 can) low of freon.
The driver side vent is getting the air through the lower half of the evaporator.
The passenger side vent is getting the air from the upper half of the evaporator.
When froen is a little low the upper half of the evaporator would have minimal cooling effect.

The issue would be corrected without adding the cooling fan.
As you can see that there was no change in driver side temp after the adding of the cooling fan.

 

Have to find the leak and fix the leak first before recharge.
The comp or the evaporator could be leaking.
The O-rings could be leaking.

Always try to find a chance to run the comp all year around to keep the seals from drying. I run windshield def in winter and AC in summer everyday.

 

rider225
Our shop does a lot of a/c repairs (our specialty) I agree with PWong, you have a leak that needs to be found and fixed. Find a shop that can charge it with R134a and nitrogen for leak detecting purposes only. They will need to use a good leak detector and even soap and water at times to find it. A lot of shops rely on flouresent dye only to find leaks. We never use dye! What we see is a vehicle will be brought to shop ABC and they will add dye to leak check it and not find a leak, then it goes to shop XYZ and they add more dye and can't find the leak. Before you know it your system has so much dye the efficiency goes down the tube. I cannot tell you the amount of vehicles with poor a/c function we fix due to mass amounts of dye in them. Flushing is the only way to get it out!
If your truck has been a hard one to find the leak on it is probably the compressor shaft seal (have to replace the compressor for long term fix) or evaporator core. I can help if your in Sacramento.

 

If the leak was in the evaporator would I smell the freon in the cab?

 

NO.
Cannot use dye.
Have to use a good leak detector.
Let the system off and sit for a long period of time then try to detect leak at the vent while bump the blower motor.

 

Ok thanks guys I just ordered the compressor, I'll start with that first and see if it fixes the leak. Thanks again for your input.

 

If you have a leak that cannot be found under the hood than most likely it's the evaporator.

 

I sure hope not, I dont want to take everything back out again. The comp. has a lot of gunk and build up around it so I was thinking if the comp. was leaking then it would attract a lot of dirt so thats why I chose to do that first but if that doesnt work then the evaporator will certainly be next.