Hi. I did the california style delete on the weekend. installed the delete pipe unplugged the sensors the were on the old pipe.and unplugged the stuff under the hood. and I installed the Smarty ME program on level 3. So the question is whats stock now. If I set the programmer back to stock what happens cause the delete pipe is on there now. If the pipe is installed .is there no setting the smarty back to stock without puttng all the DPF junk back on.. I did the deletes then without starting the truck I installed the smarty if that makes a difference..Can the Smarty 67 run error code free on the stock programmer with the delete pipe in place?

Also put on a AFE aluminum rear dif cover.. Its nice. has a drain plug with a magnet. A fill plug with a dipstick also has a magnet on it, and what I really like is it has a sight glass so you can see the fluid level. it holds alittle more then a quart of fluid more then the stock cover did.
Thanks
Dale

 

It's my understanding that the ME software turns off the DPF regens and the EGR function regardless of the power setting.
SW 0 is the 'fuel economy' setting or stock power level,
SW 1 is plus 40, SW 2 is plus 70 and SW 3 is plus 100.
I could be wrong about the power levels. Ihave seen several postings asking someone to clarify/confirm these numbers but alas, no firm answer yet.

Last November, I did the full deletes, 5 " TBE, S&M CAI and Smarty JR ME.
I have stayed with the "Fuel Economy" tune and been code free!

 

That's what I understand as well. I beleive you have to load non-ME SW to get a true stock.

 

Stock is the stock HP setting with the deletes. I ran that for about 6 months towing. Then I set it to the 40 hp "fuel economy" tune and wow, what a difference. I loaded the 70 hp towing and there is no way I'd tow with that tune set, the motor would be fine, but I fear for the transmission. For fun I loaded the 100 hp "performance" tune. It was "LOTS" of fun!!! Between the tire & exhaust smoke, I unloaded it after 2 hours.

 

That is the best explanation I've seen as to the HP levels from a Smarty JR!
I thought "fuel economy" was stock, not plus 40!

 

Fuel economy is 40hp, but timing only.

 

Can you explain "Timing only"?
Is it like bumping the ignition timing on a gas engine to make more power?
Inject the fuel sooner and it makes more power?
"Timing only" makes more power from the same amount of fuel?

 

Correct. SW1 doesn't add any fuel over the stock tables, it just bumps the timing up.

Timing on the HPCR's is retarded from the factory to meet emissions, so its optimal for emissions and not power/economy.

I haven't seen a dyno chart for the 6.7, but on the 5.9 the timing makes the biggest differene in the mid range, 1400-2600.

 

Tanks fur that!
I was thinking I should upload SW 0 to maximize my fuel economy, but it sounds like I'm in the right place with SW 1.

 

Yep!

 

Yes, SW1 is the "sweet spot" for the 6.7 imho for the Smarty JR. At the 100hp tune, the motor just did not "feel right". It ran fine, was really fast and hit hard down low, but at an idle something just did not seem quite right. There was a bit of roughness at an idle, not much, but with my OCD and ADD, I just did not like it.

 

I have been running SW 3 and defaults all on 1 except for the vgt...on 2 with the regular Smarty. I tried SW 5 and it sounded terrible. Idle was nasty and chatter on the top end was just too much for me. SW 7 was not as clattery but it shortened the life of the duals. Back to SW 3 for me. Maybe its a bit different on the junior?

 

Is anyone having issues running the SW1 with the G56? I have heard rumors that the G56 can't handle any deletes. . .?

 

I may be wrong but I think Dale M was asking more, what if after doing the delets you at a later time set the Smarty program back to stock. Will you then set codes and have problems unless you reinstall the DPF, NOX, EGR, EGRcooler, and throttle valve. I can see is being a problem if at a later date a person wanted to sell or trade the trucki. Then the either undelete od sell Smarty with the truck.

 

If you are deleted and remove the Smarty programming altogether without reinstalling the hardware it will be code city with a quick ticket to limp mode.